Bushings won't come out of turned pen????

In message , PC Gameplayer writes

Hi Jim, it does happen I am afraid, I think it is because you may have put a little to much pressure on the blank when either sanding or whilst cutting, it will make a very small bend in the mandrel, so small you will not see it but as the bushings are so tight to start with to prevent slipping, it is enough to jamb the piece on the mandrel. Due to my heavy handed method of making pens, I resort to using a hammer and tapping the mandrel out by using my scroll chuck to retain the piece but allow the mandrel to slip between the jaws, do not grip the piece with the chuck or you will damage it, just have the chuck jaws wide enough apart to take the mandrel easily. BE GENTLE!

Happy pen making

Bob ` S`

Hi Bob:

Thanks for your feedback/suggestions. Just one correction, though:

The bushings slide on the mandrel just fine--the problem is that they get stuck inside the pen part. The brass tube that goes into the pen is what's stuck on the mandrel.

Jim

gotten glue inside the tube and glued all to the mandrel. Walter

Hi Jim,

I'd guess one of two thinks happened. The first would be that the glue used to secure the tube in the blank wasn't dry when the bushings were inserted. If this was the case wait longer before inserting the bushings. The second and most likely cause would be that the finish was applied to heavily and weeped between the blank and the bushing. The finish will act as a glue when this happens. If you suspect this was the cause apply the finish more sparingly.

HTH

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

In message , PC Gameplayer writes

Okay Jim, I agree with other posts but still I stick to slightly bent mandrel giving a slight 'tweak' to the pen parts on the mandrel, there is next to nothing between brass tube and mandrel. So you have a choice, do not use so much glue (or use a glue that sets faster, possibly medium (15-25 secs)) or be a little lighter on the sanding/shaping.

Happy turning

Bob `S`

Howdy, Jack:

I think that you hit the nail on the head--I think I need to watch out for both of those situations. I probably did lay the finish on thicker than I should have--I noticed it was kind of gummed up around one of the ends of the pen. Thanks for the advice...I'll try epoxy (not CA glue) for the tubes, and I'll let it try--and I'll go lighter on the finish!

Jim

If you are using a friction finish (shellac & wax) such as Myland's or Crystal Coat, to finish your pens on the lathe, the finish may be the problem. Don't slop on quite as much. Use just barely enough and put on several coats rather than one or two heavy ones. The finish may be running inside the bushings and making them stick.

Barry

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (PC Gameplayer) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Well, maybe try using the accelerant with the CA glue to dry up any glue in the tube. Also using a pen mill to clean the tube before mounting it. I assume you are putting the finish on a rag or paper towel and applying it to the wood with the lathe turned off. Otherwise it does tend to really gum up the works.

Hi Bruce:

Er...um...apply it with the lathe turned *off*? Oh, GAWD, I'm a complete and utter MORON. I'm not being sarcastic here, I'm being honest...I thought you were supposed to apply it with the lathe *on*. That'll probably help quite a bit.

So...apply the finish with the lathe off, then turn it on, and generate some friction get an even application of the finish.

As a side question, typically how many coats does one use? I've sanded down to about 600 grit and used 4-5 coats (heavy ones, though), and I've been less than thrilled with the result...not as shiny as I expected.

Jim

In message , PC Gameplayer writes

Jim,

to many coats I think. I use a sand sealer, buff off, one coat of friction polish, buff off, light coating of combination beeswax/carumba(?) wax stick then give a final buff off. All buffing when lathe on, running at 3k or slightly above. I do go down the sanding to 12k, that's 120/240/360/400/800/1200/etc, this gives a nice shine in itself. You cannot tell if there are any scratches by then and then put on your preferred finish, you should be able to see a deep reflection when you have finished. Some people do not like the deep shine, makes the pen look plastic, it is up to you, everybody has a different way of doing pens (and ordinary woodturning), it is what suits you and your style, I am sure I speak for all those on this group, we offer advice on how we do things, you take or leave as you wish and adapt as you want, this is why we are all 'craftsmen/women' even those who have only just picked up a tool, we put our own interpretation on what we produce and get satisfaction out of it, at least I do.

Remember the basic wood block contains a work of art, your task is to get it out to your satisfaction.

Enjoy

Bob `S`