I've been experimenting trying to get a nice gloss. Haven't got it yet! :( What does happen though is that when I apply ca it tends to bridge the gap between the bushing and the blank. Then after I'm done the bushing is slightly stuck to the blank. I pops off easy but leaves a slightly rough edge on the blank. I feel like I should have a set of finishing bushings that is smaller than the blank diameter. I would put them in place after I turned the blank to size. Do any of you have this problem and how do you solve it?
this will sound sacreligeous, but just ignore it- one swipe with some 220 paper takes off the little bit of flashing and then you are done -
if you want a high gloss, use lacquer, or CA or even shellack, and then sand to 220, then wet sand (yes, with water) 400 and 600, and then use automotive polish, first the coarse, then the fine, and finally a thin coat of carnuba wax (I use treewax brand floor wax) - you will get a mile deep finish that will be just like a mirror. Of course, on a pen it will last about a day, but it will look good in the box
No experience with that, or at least not any goo experience..
Pens have no flat surfaces (hopefully) to reflect light, so sanding is critical on them.. Like all wood work, you can't have a good finish if the surface isn't prepared..
If you really want to use CA for a finish, the easiest way to solve what seems to be your problem is to make a bunch of "washers" our of waxed paper.. CA doesn't stick to wax.. I'd make them a little larger diameter than a bushing, and punch holes in them the size of the end of the bushing that slips inside the tube.. Take the pen body(s) off the bushings, put them back on with the washers and go to it..
After trying everything from "turner's polish" to hot wax, what I've settled on is a LOT of sanding, going through the grits up to at least 600, sometimes as far as 2,000... Before going up in grit, use a small piece of the last grit to LIGHTLY sand the blanks with the grain, then move to the next grit..
After sanding, I run them through the Beall buffing system and they're done.. Not high gloss, which usually shouts "beginner", but a rich glow and very smooth surface that's renewable and holds up surprisingly well.. YMWV
I used a LOT of rubbing poly, gloss and satin, when I started turning...
A couple of years later, I went back and put a lot of stuff back on the lathe to get the poly/stain/toner off and put a natural finish on...
Poly can be ok, but personally, I don't want to try writing with a plastic coated pen... Just feels funny on the fingers, but that's just me..
Most of my clients seem to prefer a natural finish that they can maintain, and the buffing process does just that.. They can wipe the pen with a soft cloth and get the original shine and texture back..
Also, I kind of like the fact that other than natural Danish oil, I haven't bought anything considered a "finish" for years, since I started buffing my stuff.. YMWV
I agree with Mac on the personal preference. I turn pens and currently give them as gifts. I use one of them at work and while I sanded to 800 and buffed (Bealle System) after a week or so the finish is gone but the 'feel' is nice. That is, the wood is smooth as a baby's bottom and the pen feels good in my hand - referring only to the finish not the shape. The shape of the pen is ok.
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