CA pen finishing

One way to use CA is with BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). Sand the turned pen to whatever you want, then I use Mylands Sanding Sealer and resand with my last two grades of paper - just lightly.

Then wet a paper towel with BLO and wipe it on (lathe turning at slowest speed) then rewet the towel with BLO and while applying it on the bottom drip thin CA on top - all along the length. Once along the pen is enough. Let it dry, and if you want use you final grit and sand once more, very lightly. Then put on one (or more) coats of the BLO/CA.

Is this better? I think it gives the pen a 'plastic' feel, very little feel of the grain of the wood. It does last a long time. I've been carrying three pens in my glasses case for about 6 months without the pens showing any wear. Friction Polish is mainly shellac, and could (will) soften with alcohol, maybe water (sweat). It's your choice as to which is 'better'.

One way to use CA is with BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). Sand the turned pen to whatever you want, then I use Mylands Sanding Sealer and resand with my last two grades of paper - just lightly.

Then wet a paper towel with BLO and wipe it on (lathe turning at slowest speed) then rewet the towel with BLO and while applying it on the bottom drip thin CA on top - all along the length. Once along the pen is enough. Let it dry, and if you want use you final grit and sand once more, very lightly. Then put on one (or more) coats of the BLO/CA.

Is this better? I think it gives the pen a 'plastic' feel, very little feel of the grain of the wood. It does last a long time. I've been carrying three pens in my glasses case for about 6 months without the pens showing any wear. Friction Polish is mainly shellac, and could (will) soften with alcohol, maybe water (sweat). It's your choice as to which is 'better'.

Margret,

Check penturners.org... They have complete instructions for CA glue finishing plus a lot more penturning info.

IMO, pretty much anything is better than friction polish, which is great until someone handles the pen. I use CA glue on punky or unstable woods, like spalted woods or pieces of burl, or a pink ivory pen I just turned the other day with a knot in it. It's really quite easy to do, but make sure you have good ventilation because CA glue is really irritating to the eyes and nose.

After you have sanded up to your finest grit, use thin CA and cover the surface of the pen with the lathe off, smoothing it over the surface with your finger with a piece of Saran Wrap, baggie or something similar. I use my bare finger, actually, and the glue usually wears off by the end of my turning session. In any case, give the glue a few minutes to soak in and dry, then sand again, using the finest grit you have. I sometimes wet sand and sometimes dry, depending on the wood. After sanding, I will often use EEE-Ultrashine and finally finish it off with pure carnauba wax, which give a nice, durable, glossy shine.

As far as non-CA pens go, I use EEE Ultrashine, followed by sanding sealer, buffed, then a coat or two of pure carnauba wax for a durable shine. Beats the heck out of friction finishes.

"Better" is such a subjective word. I use it quite a bit but I also use a variety of other finishes, depending on my mood and my estimation of what would look best on a particular pen.

I'd like to suggest that you take a look at the FAQ section of the Yahoo penturners group. LOADS of information there.