Along the lines of the woodworking bench I built, the lathe bench in progress warrants the title Das Lathe Bench. Have begun putting up web pages on it genesis and construction. I've got $25 in baltic birch ply, $50 in #9 lead birdshot and $60 in the beefy, adjustable from the top with an allen wrench, leg levelers (same as on the work bench)
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Probably over kill - by an order of magnitude - but it should do its job when finished - the finish being multiple coats of dewaxed garnet shellac- as in 10 or more coats.
You better make that lathe center a couple inches higher than your elbow height, it works better for most of us. And strictly speaking the elbow of you could be higher than the center of the lathe, depends on how high you have the toolrest, like in skimming the top of a cylinder with a skew, yes this is nitpicking, ok maybe Im a Little jealous of your to be lathe bench, just a tiny little bit. I'm going to love this thread I think
Charlie, Das bench looks nice and will be a welcome addition. A lathe deserves a bench of its own. :) I made my mini's bench high enough to accomodate a wooden platform and mat across the sleds with the centers an inch or so above my elbow. IMHO, most woodturning lathe centers are set too low (or most woodturner's backs are set too high) for efficiency and comfort.
C. Do you plan to do any finishing on the lathe? If so, I'd recommend a couple of coats of polyurethane over the shellac, or you'll have the finish spotted by the solvents in your finishing products. The poly may spot some, but not nearly as much as shellac. Just my opinion, YMMV.
Good point - and the type of thing I'm looking for. As a semi- newbie to furniture making, and a relatively newbie turner, I don't know enough to know what I'm overlooking/don't know but need to know.
WHAT?!
It's the Newbie Conundrum.
It's a lot easier to build furniture if you have a real, functional woodworking bench - suited to the type of stuff you're making and the tools and methods you use to make them. But to make a real, functional. wood- working bench you need to have made a few pieces of furniture. Only then do you have the beginnings of an understanding of what it's supposed to / can do AND the knowledge, skills and the ability to chose and make the joinery to build the damn thing.
Like a good woodworking bench, a good lathe bench should be a lot more than just something to get the lathe up where you can use it easily - and well. It should fit you and how you work as well as where you work. - its conext. The lathe bench can be a tool that helps you - or works against you.
If you like to keep two or three chisels/gouges you use often on the bench top where they're handy - do you want them under the lathe? if so, -is there enough clearance under anything the cutting edge might hit - and get dinged? - what about the ends of the base? Rather than a sharp cuttng edge accidently encountering cast iron, how about getting the cast iron up an inch or so with some blocks of wood. Wood is kinder and gentler to cutting edges or - do you want them off to the side of the lathe if so - which side or both sides? - how much room - both depth and width
Lathes generate a tremendous amount of debris. Do you want the bench to help contain it and make it easier to clean up? If so, how can that be done WITHOUT getting in the way of the type of turning - you're doing now - or may want to try later?
What about lighting? Do you want a task light or two -and if so - where - a sfixed mounting spot or the option for moving it/them around as needed?
Do you want to keep some or all of the lathe "accesssories" (chuck(s), chuck key(s), centers, face plate(s), chuck jaws, calipers, etc.) and maybe sanding stuff - with the bench or some where close by?
Are you going to be doing any "face turning"/ "end turning"/ bowl and or hollow form turning? If so - can your head stock be turned so you can face it? or - will you have to work from the opposite end of the lathe bed? if the latter should the lathe be mounted as far to the right as possible so you can stand facing the end of the bench in line with the lathe's center's line?
Are you going to need to get under the bench for any reason - a tool leaping off the bench and scurrying under it, a screw escaping and finding refuge under the bench . . .
How are you going to level the bench? Are you satisfied with shimming or do you want to go with leg levelers. If levelers, how are you going to adjust them (I personaly hate to have to lay down under something and try to get a wrench or two into a spot I can't see)? Do I want to use the levelers to also elevate the working height if necessary?
For my woodworking bench I studied a lot of different types of benches and bench hardware. I learned what different components do and do well - for a certain type of work. I picked what would likely do best for what I want to make and then built Das Bench. Having now used it for a couple of years, it does almost everything I want it to do - giant versatile clamp, sturdy pound on it surface - at a convenient height (you only get issued one spine - and it has a duty life) This lathe bench is going to be a tool that'll make it easier to use the tool it's going to hold. I only want to make one Das Lathe Bench - at least only one for this lathe - a JET mini/midi. And yes, I've built in an option for lengthening the bench if and when I put the bed extension, which I already have, on the lathe.
Come on folks, there has to be things you wish you'd done when you did your lathe supporter/tool.
That's assuming that folks participate.
I like woodworking - in many of its manifestations.
I hate re-inventing the wheel.
I really like learning "why" in addition to "how".
I'm proned to passing on what I've learned so perhaps someone else doesn't have to re-invent the wheel.
That's why I do it.
and take care
Still got all my fingers, albeit one usually with a band aide or tape - the Les Nesman from WKRP thing - and both eyes that work adequately.
Hi Charlie I have watched turners give demonstrations and see them take another tool and the first one goes under, or next to the lathe on the bench, so it is not just me that does this, however there's just not enough room to put all your tools on the bench under all that wood shaving, a movable cart with tool holding setup is the best answer IMO. Light, there is never enough, on the setup for my Delta midi,on the back edge, to the right and left side of the lathe, are 2 holes that I drilled that are fitted with metal pipe, they fit my pivoting and articulated arm light, with a narrow beam --- lamp in it, it enables me to see front, back, inside and outside, and I could not do without, and the magnifying lamp also with the articulating arm and pivot to give me a close up view when doing small stuff, it has a fluorescence circle bulb in it and gives additional light as do the overhead fluorescence 4 footers. There's more but I'm going to do some turning now, get to you again later.
Charlie, It sure looks like it will be a heck of a bench. I'm also looking forward to reading this thread, so I thought I'd help generate some discussion.
Here is some info about my bench and lathes, in no particular order. Hopefully it'll give you more ammunition for designing "Das Bench".
My large Vicmarc lathe spindle height is the same as the measurement at the inside of my elbow (top of my forearm when bent 90 degrees). My mini lathe on a bench is 2 inches below that (47 and 45 inches). I find the larger lathe more comfortable to work at for long periods. I personally wouldn't want to go much higher than the inside of my elbow, I have tried the lathe at a taller height and some cuts feel like I'm really stretching...but that might be because I was really stretching :)
You might want to consider a pad for the floor in front of your lathe when thinking about the center height. I set the Vicmarc center height (using vibration dampening machine feet), so that it is right for me when I stand on a rubber floor cushion...It sure makes the concrete floor much friendlier to the feet.
I made my mini lathe bench a few years before I bought the lathe and was just lucky that it fit reasonably well. Some of the things that I learned about the table.
It's long enough to mount a 6" grinder on the table at the tailend of the lathe (or add an extension if you wish). I can sharpen a tool and be back to turning in no time. If you decide to mount a grinder, make sure to leave room to get the tail stock on and off.
The bench is mounted on casters which makes it portable. It's rather heavy so I haven't had a problem with it rolling around. The goofy thing has become our turning club's portable demo lathe, having the grinder attached really helps in this respect.
I have two drawers under the table top for all of the stuff that I use while turning or doing a demo, they are very handy.
I often put the tools that I am using under the mini lathe or to the right of it. (I miss this on the Vicmarc...but built a little table that will sit on the bed to hold stuff...but things fall over to the other side more often)
I do start to loose tools on the bench if I allow the shavings to accumulate too much. For me, it's less aggravating to vacuum the floor than hunt for the tools in the chips...
Leo is exactly right about light, I would design some way to mount a light that can shine into a vessel that's being hollowed, or the inside of a bowl. For me, those are the hardest things to get bright enough.
I'm back with some more, we talked about clearance and yes I would get more clearance, reason why, the placement of the motor makes for bad air circulation, it gets buried under shavings, also if you stick a tool under the lathe there is less chance of damage to tool or lathe if you have more clearance, and you can find hiding screws etc. easier, and cleanout also, for these reasons do I have my lathe not screwed down, but set on 2 studs, so I can lift the lathe up and move it around, more about this later. To the left edge of my setup are several holes drilled to fit # 2 MT accessories and some smaller holes for knockout bar drill chuck key and allen wrench, woodworm screw, some more. Now for the tailstock end, I always end up with more stuff there than I want and have to clean up regularly, what I don't want there is taller stuff, no grinder for me, reason is, like today I was turning a goblet, and want to be able to use a heavy scraper and any taller item on the end would be interfering with me doing that, now here's another reason for not screwing down the lathe, I can lift it off the studs and place it closer to the right side so I can stand to the side and turn that way if I like to, I probably will make some holes for studs there, not sure yet. To level the bench, if it does not rock and stand on it's 4 feet, that would do IMO, being exactly level is not that important, within reason of course. Well this is it again for now, something to consider, oh yes one other thing, I screwed a powerbar to the bottom back side, keeps out the dust, and it is very handy to be able to plug your lights, lathe, power sander etc. in without all the cords in the way.
Depends on how you cut. I cut at centerline, even on bowls, so the elbow rule works best for me. The hand and elbow remain close to the same relaxed position for all cuts.
Already did a chisels and gouge holder which is also a carrying case. Sits on the floor to the right of the bench. It puts the top of the handles where they can be gotten to without bending over.
Am also thinking about down angling tubes on the side of the right side of the bench
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Am seriously considering putting the Tormek on a shelf on the left side of the bench, with a drawer for the jigs. Having there will increase the likelyhood that I'll sharpen a tool as soon as it loses its edge rather than continuing until it gets really dull. Have to figure out how to get it up high enough to use easily, but protected from flying chips and curlies which stream off of turned wood, especially when turning green wood or all the bark chunks that fly all over hell.. The simple solution would be to use the bright yellow canvas cover Tormek has - but that would be too easy.
Goose neck high intensity lamps are small so they don't get in the way much and can be positioned better than the two arms with springs. Think I'll skip the halogen overhead, too hot. Cold isn't often a problem in the San Francisco Bay area - for which I'm most grateful.
Yes have your grinder close by, I was lucky in that I got a 3/4" thick,
7' x 30" piece of lexan from the engineering department at UWO university when they were doing some remodeling, an use that as a wall between my lathe and grinder, it stops the shavings and the grit, but not the light. Maybe a piece of plexiglas could be used on the end of your bench, for keeping the shavings close by, I also have 2 shower curtains to stop the airborne chips, slide them out of the way when not needed. hope you have a dry grinder beside the tormek, turning tools are murder on the tormek when shaping them, apparently, I don't have one, just hearsay. Goose neck lights are ok if they have enough reach, most I see have too short a flex neck. Halogen is what I use in the bench light, they are hot, but a regular
100w bulb is hot too, and gives less light than the 50w halogen bulb with the build in reflector, the halogen bulb is deep enough in the lamp shade, so I don,t brush up against it. No more ideas right now, waiting for the finished bench, ................what's the holdup anyway ???
Pays to network and beats dumpster diving I iagine
We have several TAP Plastic stores and I am planning on a wrap around over the top of the bench, and side panels of clear plastic but not 3/4" but more like 1/16th. I just want to contain most of the flying stuff. I think I can come up with a way to have the plastic on the sides move down out of the way for end grain turning. Not sure how to deal with "static cling" - maybe a ground strap?
There's also a dust collector drop next to where I plan on putting the lathe. Need to plan this thing into the upgrading of my DC set up - going with a 1400-1500 actual CFM cyclone and all the plumbing up from 4" to 6" May be able to run 4" hose to both sides of this bench and then into a 6" line
That would be WAY too easy.
Have a dry grinder but only use it for hogging off a lot of metal, relatively speaking. The Tormek works nicely for restoring and edge one the shape has been established. So the dry grinder will stay on the sharpening station cabinet.
There's a family run lighting store I'm going to use as lighting consultant.
Today's "challenge" was the debris ramp/chute.
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This is why I start with a "plan" and then build and modify as I go.
Tomorrow The Shelf.
The real fun will be getting this thing off my workbench and on the floor where it will live for the foreseeable future.
being lazy, my shaving control is even easier, Charlie.. *lol
I bought a couple of 4x8' sheets of 3/4" foam with plastic faces for about 8 bucks each...
When I'm going to be making a lot of shavings, I lean one against the 2 bench stools to keep the shavings away from the bench... works really well, even though it's only 4' high.. When the turning is done and I move the foam, the shavings are stacked up and ready to be scooped..
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