Final cut

Mark you're doing just fine the way you're doing it now,(yes going in one swoop would be nice, not many can though) just get it as smooth as you can and then use a round nose scraper skewed and clean up carefully going from bottom to the side, then sand. Just make sure you have that scraper sharp and take only a wispy cut.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Woodborg wrote:

I like to make the final passes continuous. Makes the scraper superfluous on a continuous curve. If you're doing as a lot of new turners do, and making an abrupt change in direction at the bottom of the bowl, 'nother matter. For me that's a different gouge position entirely, and often a different gouge for bottoming, so I make the change there at the logical point.

With a continuous curve inside you should be able to follow by rolling the tool to present the edge at the appropriate angle as the grain angle changes on the piece. I don't use bowl gouges, preferring my forged pattern for their gentle curve. Allows me to get more guidance from the bevel on a thinner cut. Great control, and almost impossible to get a catch.

George

I like to make the f>

Here's my HSS trio, have the same in carbon as well. You can see them at

as well.

The angle of the grind is uniform all across, so you just grind the way you cut, Anchoring the tool on the rest, lay the Bevel on the rotating wheel and Cutting by sweeping left then right. Two's a fresh edge. You can get the shavings as broad or as thin as the grain orientation requires by skewing the gouge to reference a broader or narrower bevel to steady against the piece. You want the point where the edge exits the wood to take a thin, feathered exit cut. I prefer to leave the button on the bottom rather than risk popping it out and leaving a dimple. Sands off quickly with less danger.