Given that no finish is a "one size fits all" I expect that most turners have settled on just a very few finishes that they use most of the time. I use a
50/50 mix of gloss Deft and laquer thinner about 80% of the time and then polish with the Beal system. With this mix, I can vary the sheen as needed depending on other factors. What are your most often used finishes? Why do I ask? I have a program coming up for my woodturners group on finishing. We have three presenters who each use a different method. I would like to see if there is any general agreement among the wise men and ladies of this group. GCS
I do as you do most of the time. Occasionally I'll use Watco danish oil if I want the oil look, and if the piece is likely to come into contact with water I'll use either Minwax wipe-on poly or Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil Sealer, several coats.
I use one of 2 finishes for 90% of may work - the other 10% is shellac
60% of the time, I use pure tung oil to seal and the beall buffing system to finish - spectacular results!
30% of the time, I use Waterlox - about 4 coats - sealed, protecteed and impervious to the elements!
Why make it more difficult?
Ray
PS: The shellac finish is probably the most interactive and the most pleasing to apply and work. The results can be quite exceptional if you want to take the time to do it properly. Also, the shellac finish provides an opportunity to make the piece look antique if that is a look you want to acheive.
I have a very simple finishing process for turned items. Normally, I start power sanding (if the item allows) with 80 or 100 grit, sometimes 120, depending on the wood and the surface left by the tool. Then 180, 320 and finally 400 grit. Make absolutely sure each sanding step removes the scratches left by the previous grit. As another turner once said, "Put the polish on the wood."
I think a lot of finishes fall short simply because of inadequate or improper sanding. Sanding is probably the most important step in the process. Most everyone I know hates to sand, including me. But, when you consider how important sanding is to the appearance of the finished piece, give this step the attention it deserves. I can't stress this enough. I have seen many absolutely beautifully shaped pieces that just didn't "make it" because they were not sanded and finished properly. This sanding step is where you "make it" or "break it". Sand too little and the finish will never look right no matter what you use. Sand too much and you ruin the piece. It is very easy to round over edges and obliterate crisp details when you sand. This can absolutely ruin the appearance of a piece.
If the piece doesn't look good without a finish, it's not going to be miraculously rescued by the finish you put on. Inspect the piece under a good light. All sanding scratches and tool marks should be gone. The piece should be absolutely smooth and the curves should flow smoothly. Curves should have no flat spots. The piece should "feel good" in your hands. Sometimes you can feel surface imperfections that you don't see.
If you have sanded a piece properly, the choice of finish becomes less important. For a finish, I use Minwax Polyurethane Gloss or semi gloss. The brush-on version. I'm sure other varnishes or oils would work just as well. I slop it on heavily with a brush and let it soak into the wood, replenishing any dry spots. Depending on the wood, you might want to thin the first coat. After about 10 minutes, I wipe off the excess. If the piece is still mounted, I run the lathe at a medium speed and burnish the finish in with a pad made from an old t-shirt. The heat generated speeds the drying process. I let it dry overnight.
On some woods, just one coat is sufficient to give a very nice low-gloss finish. If further coats are desired, I apply additional coats after a light buffing between coats with 0000 steel wood or a fine Scotch-Brite pad. Nothing could be simpler........except maybe no finish at all!
I'll use . . . Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil Sealer,
What is the appearance of that, Jim? Is it fairly glossy, or more satin? And have you tried one of the polymerized tung oils, not the sealer?
Max >>
Max, It's semi-matte unless you buff it to a higher gloss, which is the reason I use it rather than the polymerized tung oils that Lee Valley has. They both have too much gloss for my taste. The sealer gives me more options on how much gloss (or none at all) that I want.
One other question, Jim--how many coats do you typically apply? Sorry to be bothersome on this, but I've just acquired a can of the stuff, along with a can of the mid-level solids polymerized tung oil (both intended for use on the interior bulkheads and woodwork of my boat) and was wondering if it would be an acceptable finish on turnings. I'll give it a try. Thanks much for the info.
I use a couple of finishes. They are pure tung oil, walnut oil, and shellac. The shellac I will use either by itself, or mixed with oil to make a friction polish. My reasons for using these finishes are:
the low odor
the ease of application
the repairability
I think you'll find a lot of personal preferences in finishing, depending on what is important to you.
Thanks to all who responded to my request. This was helpful and I have copied each suggestion to pass along to my group members to jog their thinking. GCS
It's semi-matte unless you buff it to a higher gloss, which is the reason I use
One other question, Jim--how many coats do you typically apply? Sorry to be bothersome on this, but I've just acquired a can of the stuff, along with a can of the mid-level solids polymerized tung oil (both intended for use on the interior bulkheads and woodwork of my boat) and was wondering if it would be an acceptable finish on turnings. I'll give it a try. Thanks much for the info. >>
I usually apply at least 3 coats, 24 hours apart. Sorry for the delay in answering, but I haven't checked in for a while.
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