If you only had one...

If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls, what would you choose? sort of the "stuck on an island" question. State type, size and make

Reply to
Max63
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Hello Max,

That is an interesting question that you pose. Actually, if you has said only one tool to turn either spindles or bowls, it would have to be a round nose scraper with a negative rake grind on it. However, the scraper would tear grain on the softer hardwoods and would only work well on the harder hard woods. But since you are allowing two tools, one for spindles and one for bowls the choice would be different.

For spindles, the Robert Sorby Spindle Master in a one inch width will make virtually all cuts on a spindle. It turns nice beads, nice coves, and it will turn a smooth surface like a skew chisel. Since I'm not limited to one tool, I choose to use my 3/4" Hamlet skew chisel and my

1/2" Crown Spindle gouge for most of my spindle turning.

For bowls and platters, I would choose the 5/8" bowl gouge with an Ellsworth Grind on it. I believe that Crown and Henry Taylor both make this signature gouge with Ellsworth's name on the handle. This tool will make all of the cuts needed to turn a bowl and is the only grind that I know of that can cut the inside of a bowl from rim to bottom in one sweeping cut without having to change the grind on the tool. I think that most 5/8" bowl gouges can be ground to the Ellsworth grind using the Ellsworth Jig. Once the grind is established, it can be reproduced with the Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig or with the Tormek System.

I'm sure others will have different choices, but these would be mine.

Fred Holder

Reply to
Fred Holder

Well, I'm sorta torn on the spindle thing... either an Oland tool or an oval skew...

For bowls, I have to go with the master... Several folks have asked Bill Grumbine this question and his answer is always a bowl gouge with swept back wings..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Well, I will also chime in on a swept back grind for a bowl gouge, can't be beat for all round use and versatility. On the spindle side, I would be torn. For anything straight, I would have to choose a skew chisel, 1 inch because I like bigger and heavier tools, they just feel better for me. However if I am going to be doing a lot of beads and coves, I am more comfortable with a gouge. I have played with a Sorby Spindle master, and liked it as I could do coves and beads with it better than I could with a skew, and maybe better than I could with a spindle gouge. I also wouldn't want to be without a scraper. I use them a lot for bowls, and end grain, and roughing spindles. robo hippy

Reply to
robo hippy

This bunch will do it all, but will be slower hollowing bowls, because you can't plunge and rotate like a cylindrical gouge. Unsurpassed in control and utility in convex operation. If only one, the 1/2".

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Used this pattern until I got my first "bowl" gouge in the 70's.

Reply to
George

This is an unfair question for me being about half of what I turn is hollow forms. So I suppose a swept back bowl gouge and a 3/4" round nose scraper for cleanup. I quite often catch myself doing spindle work with a bowl gouge so that will work. So if I am really stuck on an island I guess I'll have to give up hollow forms altogether. Bob

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Reply to
turnerbob

Big Alan Lacer fan here.. I'd have to say the skew chisel for spindel work (coves, beads, etc.). I've pretty much learned everything I know from Alan's two skew chisel videos - very nice videos if you want to check them out. I do use an oval skew for the most part which isn't something Lacer boasts in his videos - not the easiest to sharpen, but it can be done.

-S

Reply to
smklassen

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