Kelton Hollowers

Those things are junk. I advise that you send them to me so I can dispose of them properly.

Let's hope not. If so, they are the most I've ever paid for junk (in the way of turning tools, that is). Seriously, have you ever used them? They just looked so simple and sturdy I couldn't resist.

Barry

I think you missed his joke; I'll take them off your hands too! Billh

Hi Barry, Congratulations on your purchase. The Kelton Hollowers are some of my favorite and most used hollowing tools. The shapes are sized just about perfectly to go from opening up the form to final cutting under a rim. I assume you obtained the 1/2 inch size, which is IMO the most valuable of the sets for most people.

They are capable of taking a rather large bite when used as a traditional scraping tool, because of the relatively large contact surface they offer, thus I most often use them at least slightly angled in more of a shear scraping position. The horizontal position can be effective for aggressively removing a large amount of wood when initially clearing the form, but I think those who have had difficulty with the Keltons have failed to roll the tool over to the shearing position progressively more as the wall is thinned. Generally, like with most scraping tools, you want to use these at a 9 o'clock or slightly higher level within the form,though you this is less critical as the tool is rolled over for shear scraping.

Keep in mind that you often can deal with the bottom center "cone" that usually forms more easily by using the "back" of the tool tip moved to the right. This is usually safer than trying to approach the "cone" head with the usual cutting side of the tip. Again, I'd keep the tool slightly angled, though a shearing cut is not as critical here.

You can also control their aggressiveness by how great a burr you put on the tool. Generaly I find only a slight burr is the most desirable. I find a burr most easily obtained on these tools by using a slipstone used vertically and stroked upward when the tool is held horizontally. There is a slight bevel on these tools, so just align the slipstone to contact both high points the bevel as you stroke. If you can feel the edge being raised with your fingernail, this is enough. I will occasionally smooth off the top of the tool so that a fresh burr will be formed, but do this cautiously so that you are mostly only removing the raised surfaces of the burr, as the top of the Kelton hollowers has a specially hardened layer, so you don't want to eventually remove that (I don't believe I ever have, and I've used these tools a lot and for a long time). I'd never take these tools to a grinder, and do all my edge/burr maintainance by hand. I prefer the Henry Taylor two slipstone set that is available from Craft Supplies (the large is great for use on the Keltons and general flute maintainance, the small works perfectly for Glaser bowl gouge flutes) over diamond or waterstone slipstones, though all will work. I do tend to use a fine diamond credit card to smooth the tops.

These tools are relatively tolerant with respect to lathe speed. I think Kelton generally recommends something in the 800-1000 range, though I often use even lower speeds, as is my usualy preference with all hollowing tools. Higher speeds will work for smaller work, but are more likely to induce vibration.

Like with all hollowing tools, it is important to clear the chips/shavings often to prevent them from building up and interfering with tip contact with the wood. Again, a shear scraping cut is less sensitive to chip build up when the tip is used perpendicular to the wood surface. With the lathe turned by hand or powered down to nearly zero rpm, the tools can actually be helpful in guiding the shavings out of the form.

There's probably more to say, but that's what comes to mind for now.

Lyn

Barry N. Turner wrote:

Hello Barry,

Basically, the Kelton Hollowers are scrapers as are most hollowing tools, but unlike normal scrapers you need to cut at about centerline of the rotating piece. They do not work very well unless you first drill a hole in the center of the workpiece. You then cut from the center toward the side. Make sure you have a set of calipers to check wall thickness. It is very easy to turn through the side of the vessel. I should also mention that these are designed to be end grain hollowing tools. I've never used them for hollowing a basic bowl shape so do not know how they would work.

I recommend you near final turn the outside so that you have a shape to work to while hollowing. Next drill a hole to the depth that you plan to hollow. This hole needs to be large enough to allow the tip of your tool to enter it. Start with the straightest tool. Work from center toward the outside. Cut a swipe across from center to edge. Repeat this until your are as deep as you wish to hollow. You should have larger hole down in the middle part, that is larger than the mouth of the vessel.

When you can no longer cut along the side, but still have more wood to remove, change to the next more crooked tool and enlarge your hole. If the shape is not too radical, you may be able to do all of your hollowing with just the two tools. In fact, I recommend that you make a simple enough vessel to begin with that only the two straightest tools are needed.

I'll go a step further, simply turn a cup for your first project. That way you can see what the tool is doing and it will help you to get a feel for where the tip of the tool might be within the vessel.

Good luck. They are a good set of tools and will do a fine hollowing job for you. You'll just need some practice.

Fred Holder

I will have used them after you get rid of that junk and send it to me.

(See the smiley here? ---> :) )

No, I haven't used them. They're on my someday list though, along with a buncha other Kelton stuff.

I didn't miss it..............I just didn't bite.........................:-) Barry

Thanks, Lyn. I appreciate the advice, especially about rolling the tool over so that it is shear scraping and on sharpening. I can't envision my needing to grind these tools for a long, long time, if ever. I don't know that I would trust myself doing it, even then.

Actually, I bought the 5/8" set. Woodcraft didn't have the 1/2" set in stock the day I went in. I had sort of pre-determined that the 1/2" was the set I would buy. Had they had the 1/2" set in stock, I probably would have bought it.

Although I am still turning on a Jet Mini, I find that the tools I buy and use tend to be a bit "oversized" for what I would expect to be appropriate for that size lathe. I think these tools are going to become favorites very quickly.

I went to Kelton's website and read about the tools and that helped. Although I believe they called the tools "shear scrapers", I don't think they ever quite got around to telling how to use them as such. Thanks for your very helpful response.

Barry

Thanks for all the very helpful advice. The tools work great!

Barry

Hello Barry and Lyn,

I have the large set of Kelton hollowing tools with the two different size handles also a Kelton bowl gouge and a Kelton Shear scraped with a 5/8 blade. all of these I have found very easy to use. I have a few of there other tools on my wish list too.

I go along with the thoughts that Lyn has. My kelton gear has never been near a grinder (well only when I walk pass it. But I don't turn it on). The use of the hand stones is the only way to go Funny Lyn I also use a fine credit card diamond for honing too.

I am sure you will get years of enjoyment and use from your Kelton gear. I have had mine for about 3 years now.

I have turned a few deep hollow small neck vessels with a great deal of pride when I had finished them. I found them easy to use. Follow Lyns advice you too will enjoy them for a long time.

Kelton also put out a video on there tools. They have a web site too

Have a look at some of there other products while your there. They have a news letter they put out on E-mail when they have updates on there products.

or E-mail them. mailto: snipped-for-privacy@kelton.co.nz

Hello all, I think I made a blew in the way I sent my reply. Sorry about that if I did, If I didn't then don't worry about this one.