For my chess piece turning project, I am considering some smaller tools. I made a trial piece yesterday, and felt that my 1/2" skew was too big. I am looking at the Crown 1/4" skew for $28.99 from Woodcraft. They also have a
5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience with these? I THINK that I really only need the skew, but the small gouges might be nice to have. $40 for the set sounds like it is too good to be true.
It seems to me that this is a really good chance to make some of your own tools.
You can buy a 1/4" drill blank and a 3/8" drill blank and make a 1/4" round skew and a 3/8" round skew. Drill blanks are already hardened so you only need to make and fit a handle and then grind the skew shape on the end. Leave the rest of the tool round. Once you've used a round skew in these smaller sizes you will not want to go back to manufactured ones -- they do everything better. When you roll them they are predictable. They don't vibrate as much as the standard shape so cut better. And, your 1/4" drill blank will cost you about $1.50. You'll have to buy an assortment of stuff to justify postage but for the $28.99 you could get about 10 tools.
If you want to make some fancier tools where you need to start with soft tool steel, that is no problem either. You can buy 18" and 36" lengths of O (Oh)-1 drill rod. Cut to length, grind or cut shape you want and then harden and temper with a mapp gas torch, or, in a pinch, a propane torch. There are plenty of instructions on the net for doing this. It is easy to do and while the steel won't be as good as the commercial M2, it is plenty good enough for small tools on small work or details on larger work.
You can also make specialized tools from hex wrenches, screwdrivers, square section metalworking bits (make a small beading and parting tool),...
The suppliers of this stuff -- any machine shop supply company, MSC, ENCO, GRAINGER, KBC (One of KBC's locations is about a half mile from my house!), etc.
Also you get the handles like you want them when you make the tools. I use pretty big handles even on the small skews.
My daughter has the micro set for making dollhouse-scale turnings. It's a sweet set, and well worth the small price. Each tool has a reversible steel, so you can put two different grinds on each tool and effectively have ten tools. The steel is good and the handles are just the right size.
However, for regulation size chess pieces they're probably too small. I'd go with a 1/4" shallow gouge instead. Now, if you wanted to make
I don't have much use for miniature tools.........even when turning ornaments, finials and other smaller stuff. I find that standard size tools are easier to sharpen, more stable and feel better in the hand. There may be instances where miniature tools are required, but you can do a respectable job in most instances with standard-sized ones. Tiny tools are just hard to control and bounce around too much unless you hold them with a death grip. Just my opinion.........
Tiny tools with large handles are easier. Make the handles, though if you are careless about how far away your rest is with heftier tools, the small ones will tell you about it.
I rather suspect that you're avoiding certain possibilities because of your bad experience. Try again with stoned edges - no grinders on the small stuff - and large handles. They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no other way.
Well, they call it "honing"... It was kind of strange that they mentioned them not being sharp in 2 places in one paragraph... maybe they're child proof?
Barry, if you're having problems with dancing steel on the mini tools, there are two things that will definitely have a positive effect on helping it to clear up, namely, faster spindle speed and a _much_ lighter cut.
For turning miniatures it is essential to develop a light touch, not only to avoid chatter and other nasty side effects of tool vibration, but also to have better control over the amount of wood you're removing. Doesn't take much to turn a miniature bowl into a miniature funnel!
I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned edges?
That's why I made some small tools.
Because a scratch which is nothing on the edge of a 3/8 wide tool is proportionately larger and sometimes difficult to avoid on a 1/8. Also real easy to destroy good geometry with a moment of carelessness.
I guess that I sort of compromise both of your styles... I did the original sharpening on the belt sander with a 400 belt and mostly use diamond hones on them for touchup... I'm way to heavy handed with a grinder... I'd end up with pointed stumps sticking out of the handles.. *g*
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.