Need Source for #2MT with threads

1. if you find such a thing, make sure it has a draw bar so you can fasten it securely - otherwise, it won't stay attached to the lathe.

For a Jacobs chuck adapter,go here:

adapters with the thread sizes you mentioned,go here and look at their tailstock adapters, then contact them and see if they will do a custom version for you (they have done custom modifications for me in the past) with a steel head (which they can take from their tool post adapter):

Lyn

Raym> I have a very old lathe that only has a #2 morse taper at the drive head.

Hello Raymond

I assume You have a hole through your lathe spindle?

If so, than Raymond go for a #2 morse taper and a adapter so you can always use your chuck on another lathe if and when needed, Oneway use a adapter for their chucks (their chucks are top of the line) and have one for the Shopsmith, ( no thread in it ) Busy Bee Tools sells a #2 and #3 Morse taper with a straight stub end, the arbor as it is called has 3/8" X 16tpi tread in it for a drawbar, taper is hard and stub is soft so it can be machined if needed. The arbors stub is 1"D and the adapter for the Shopsmith is internal

5/8", so you will have to do some machining (or have it done), machine the adapter hole 2 thousands under size and press the arbor in. I use one like that every day and it works great.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Raym> I have a very old lathe that only has a #2 morse taper at the drive head.

Something like this?

Have you considered getting the headstock spindle machined to take a chuck? Or getting a new spindle made?

I suggest this approach because I can't help but think that adding an insert is going to be a compromise at best. Someone already said you would need a draw bar to keep the MT in place. Another problem I can see is that the chuck will be sitting a long way from the headstock bearing and this is likely to lead to vibration or innacuracies in the mounting.

Raymond, Not the usual lathe spindle problem. More often it's threaded and solid and doesn't sport a taper. Your thread is an interesting balance to "Is lathe X a better buy than lathe Y or Z?" Can you post a pic and more description?

Not waiting for a pic or further description here's some random thoughts(?) that might not apply to your lathe: I wonder who made it. Was it manufactured or bespoke? It was probably built for between centers work and might not have a spindle, headstock, bearings or swing adequate for unsupported chuck & faceplate work. Might be best reserved for turning spindles.

Exs. Instead of sleeved or rolling, many old lathe's outboard bearings were just the spindle tapered to ride in an adjustable greased cup. Drive end bearings were often babbitt or shimmed halves leaking oil. Tapers weren't stardardized to Mr Morse's. Often the spindle's registering surface wasn't true and there was no thru hole. Of course, what I consider old, you likely consider ancient, tho I do own examples of each of these old fellows :)

A 2MT implies a spindle size adequate to consider having it threaded instead of using adaptors that extend chucks far from the bearing. Remember the register.

Arch

Fortiter,

from that page:

This product is to be used for positioning only and is not made to be used under power.

and I believe it....

REALLY?

Boy, I wish I could read.

Check the word "like."

Sears carries the #2MT to threaded end that accepts a Jacobs chuck.

Grandpa

Raym> I have a very old lathe that only has a #2 morse taper at the drive head.

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I have one of those. It works well for the Jacobs chuck, but I think it would not be adequate for a larger chuck or a faceplate. the thread is 1/2 inch, 20 TPI.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

Sounds like what he was after was like that one at Packard. Were it my problem, I'd take the picture and the knowledge gained here to the machinist up the way - along with a picture of US Grant.

It would have to be threaded aft for a draw bar, have at minimum two flats behind the threads up forward to unscrew a standard chuck, and be of solid tough steel. 1"x 8, a good face to match the chuck to, and, because I'm overly cautious anyway, spend 95% of its time with help from the tailstock.

This morse taper adapter from Busy Bee sounds like the best bet for Raymond. To have a machinist make one from scratch would be around a hundie or more. Turning 8 tpi threads doesn't go very fast, ask me how I know. I would go for 3/4" x 16 tpi on a 1" stub arbor, that way there is at least a bit of a flange behind the threads. And 16 tpi is a lot easier to machine than 8 tpi.

Ken Grunke SW Wisconsin

Coulee Region Woodturners AAW chapter