New Nova DVR Software 4.1

Mark Penacho wrote:(clip) So for the next couple weeks until I move, I can't do much with it except look at it.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Lyn Mangiamelli wrote an extensive review of the DVR when it first came out, including detailed instructions on how to change it from 120 v to 220 v operation. You should be able to find this in the archives. It was also published in several installments in More Woodturning. I don't know which installment you need, but, as I recall, it is just a matter of pulling off a jumper on the circuit board inside the headstock.

If you cant find it - let me know and I can re-post it. I have it on my other PC (not here other wise I would just post it)

Software for a lathe?

Regarding the 110 volt, can't you just buy a high quality 12 gauge extension cord and run it to the basement? The cord on the DVR is 18 gauge so you could hook up a 100 feet of extension cord and still get plenty of current to the lathe.

220 in the US is two 110 legs. He can convert one side for the lathe any time he cares to.

I have plenty of 115V power as well. Will run it for at least a while on that before I decide to make the internal changes to run on 220. It's just that had I known what would have transpired, I'd have just ordered it in

220V off the bat.

What I was mainly pointing out was the software that controls the speed on the DVR. The two main gripes about this lathe by this newsgroup were the relatively high (250) minimum rpm and the torque at low rpms, both of which this new software seems to make attempts at correcting.

When I finally do get set up (the lathe, bandsaw, and dust collector will be unpacked before anything else) I will play with the new parameters and report what I find. I have no idea if Teknatool offers any software updates for older lathes, but should be worth a try.

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Russell Seaton) wrote in :

I dont think it comes in a 240 setup from the factory.

You can actually call Teknatool and order an upgraded board - the cost is $60.00. It will have the updated settings 100 min rpm - new torque settings - etc...

-R

George:

Not necessarily....

To put it another way: NONONONONONONONO!

If the outlet is three conductors, there will be two Hot legs at 220 volts and one Ground conductor. You CANNOT connect from one of the 220 volt legs and the ground and have a safe connection. This would cause the ground circuit to carry neutral current, and this should never be done. The Ground wire is a safety wire, not intended to carry neutral current in normal operation.

On the other hand, if the 220 volt outlet is 4 wire, it will have the two Hot legs, a NEUTRAL, and a Ground. In this instance, you could plug a sub-box into the 220 volt outlet that contains appropriate sized circuit breakers and two separate 110 volt outlets. Each outlet would connect one of the hot legs (through a circuit breaker) and neutral plus the ground. Typically, 220 volt outlets are 30 amps capacity, and it would be unsafe to connect a 110 volt outlet directly to the 220 volt outlet using an adapter without a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker for the 110 volt outlet.

However, if he really wants to convert the 220 volt outlet to 110 volt, he can have an electrician remove the 220 volt (double pole) circuit breaker and outlet and install an appropriately sized 110 volt (single pole) circuit breaker and outlet and be within code and safe at the same time! Any qualified electrician should be able to reidentify one of the old hot wires (at both ends) of the 220 volt circuit as a neutral wire for the 110 volt circuit.

--Rick

George wrote:

Thanks, I know that, maybe others don't.

Affects what I said not at all.

Rob, could tell me who at Teknatool you talked to about this upgrade? Just got an email from both Teknatool and Woodcraft, both claimed there is no upgrade available that will lower the RPM below 250.

Thanks, Bob

240 / 50 hz is available ex factory . I've got one As here in Australia , single phase is 240 v regards , Manfred

I don't understand why you could not wire the 220 power plug such that you have on 110 supply, a neutral and a ground wire. Simply do not wire the other 110 leg to your plug for the lathe. This seems pretty simple, of course you do have to get the plug wired correctly but still simple.

Bill

Rick Frazier wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rickfrazier.com:

I think the problem is that there is no neutral wire. In this case you would have to use the safety ground (which is at the same potential as a neutral) but this is not safe and against the electrical code. 220V receptacles, unless they are the stove or dryer type, often use standard house wire, white,black, bare safety ground. In this use, the white wire is used for the other hot and is marked with tape on the end to show it is not a neutral. Billh

I understand now. I wired my own 220 outlet years ago and I have 4 wires, the two 110 legs, a neutral and safety ground. The plugs I use do not utilize the ground wire, even though there is one in the outlet box it is not currently used. I believe that the ground wire and the neutral both landed to ground at the other end of the connection though (service box). My ignorance of the code gave me a bit more flexibility at my 220 outlet.

Bill

"billh" wrote in news:5ARmb.945$ snipped-for-privacy@news20.bellglobal.com: