pecan wood

I'm turning a bowl out of pecan wood. I roughed it out while green and let it dry. Its tough cutting and I'm getting lots of torn end grain. I've sanded with 60 grit paper until I was covered with dust and still have a little torn grain showing. I guess I'll continue to sand, but was wondering if there is a better way. I'm using sharp tools (at least I think they are). I'm using a belt sander to sharpen them. Does anyone else have this much problem with this wood? I've tried it before and it seemed to be just as big a problem. Any help would be appreciated. Rick

Reply to
Rick Spivey
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Maybe you should make sure they are, rather than thinking they are.

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

Work on your presentation. You want the edge of the tool to parallel the rotation of the piece to the greatest extent possible. You would also like to skew the edge slightly, so the trailing edge cuts cleanly. That allows the wood to cut itself en passant, without excessive pressure from the tool. You're looking for the minimum friction cut - it's the best.

Reply to
George

A great turner that used to frequent this group, Steve Russell, called dried pecan "pecancrete". And for a good reason.

It is one of the few hardwoods we have here in abundance in S. Texas, so everyone around here has at least tried it. When it is really green, it tears out like hell. It is strange as different pecans seem to turn a lot different from each other. I have turned green pecan that almost turn out in little balls from the tear out (went to the BBQ) and other pieces from different trees that turned long swishing curlies. I think when it is about half way dry, it turns well, and finishes well. When it is totally dry, it is a great wood to BBQ with, or make some small spindle turnings because all of it seems to wind up really hard when dried.

It can be made into some beautiful pieces though, so stick with it. As as side note, I don't have near as much tear out or precision cutting problems since I quit running to the grinder every few minutes. I now keep a small multiform waterstone (180 grit) next to the lathe in a peanut butter jar full of water. Cut for a few minutes, then a few swipes on the tool, then back at it.

I only hit the grinder when the tool is not easily touched up with the stone. The edge stays longer when honed (Fred Holder's research?) and it is just as fast as grinding. But is gives a better edge, for fine medium to fine cuts. And while I still take the big bowl gougest to the grinder, I give them a couple of finishing swipes with the stone as I can feel the tiny burr inside the flute after sharpening, and that bugs me.

Some of the others in my club snicker at the waterstone, because they read somewhere they just don't have the extra 5 -7 seconds to use it. They do however, seem to have plenty of time to sand....

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

Same here - except for the type of container full of water. Made a big difference in reducing tear-out when cutting kiln dried walnut - which I was having problems with. Seems to me that nut bearing trees can be rather difficult.

I strive to produce a burr on my scraper, however...

FWIW,

Greg G.

Reply to
Greg G

In a word Pecan is a "bitch" to turn. It's a close relative of hickory and just as tough. I turned a Pecan bowl last Summer that had 3/8" diameter insect borings through the blank. As I turned it, the sawdust from the holes went everywhere. Nasty stuff. But it was a decent bowl when I finished. Me thinks there are better woods for turning, though.

Barry

Reply to
Barry N. Turner

Thanks guys.

Reply to
Rick Spivey

If you rub paste wax into the recalcitrant areas prior to shear scraping and/or sanding I think that you will find it improves your results. Depending on how bad your tearout problem is, two or three waxings may be needed. You do not have to let the wax dry: supposedly it makes the fibers stand up (and cut off) better.

When I lived it Texas I turned a fair amount of pecan. Not the easiest stuff to handle but I don't think it is as bad as some of the others who've responded to your posting

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

Reply to
Kip

If you rub paste wax into the recalcitrant areas prior to shear scraping and/or sanding I think that you will find it improves your results. Depending on how bad your tearout problem is, two or three waxings may be needed. You do not have to let the wax dry: supposedly it makes the fibers stand up (and cut off) better.

When I lived it Texas I turned a fair amount of pecan. Not the easiest stuff to handle but I don't think it is as bad as some of the others who've responded to your posting

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

Reply to
Kip

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