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Pens, what's the most durable finish?

Hi all, I'm new here. I recently started making pens and I'm pleased with the results. However, after some weeks of usage the finish on the pens becomes dull and sometimes comes off altogether (or at least looks patchy). Presently I sand the pens smooth then, depending on the wood (and my mood) I'll either leave it natural, stain it or give it a coat of Danish Oil. Then they get a final finish with hard wax. I'm hoping to sell my pens eventually but I couldn't think of doing so until I've solved this problem. I'm quite new at the turning game so I'd be grateful for any suggestions as to the best finish to use so that my pens will stand up to prolonged usage without losing their looks. Thanks in advance.

Reply to
John
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Hi John

I have been making pens for a couple of years now, and I finish them with a couple of coats of melamine polish and then complete them with a beeswax polish. I also tend to sand them down to a fine finish with using various grits upto 1200.

So far that seems to work.

Reply to
John Young

CA==Super Glue has a lot of supporters, I can't use the method (due to the chemical reactions in my nose). I polish to 12000 (MicroMesh) and wax.

Reply to
Ralph E Lindberg

If you're going to sell your pens, I really suggest you get the Beall buffing system and learn to use it..

All of the "Pen finishes" that I've tried are pretty much shellac and wax.. Even Shallawax, which I really liked for a while, is not very durable..

I had several pens that I'd given to friends for testing that had the finish dull or just flake off... YUCK..

I sand and buff all of my pens.. If the wood needs it, I also wet sand them with Natural Danish oil and buff when it's cured.. I tell my customers that if the pen finish ever dulls, wipe it gently with a soft cloth and the glow is back... YMWV

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

I am new too. My friend taught me to use HUT turning wax. It works well.

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Use the brown one first then use the white one last.

Reply to
Camera

I have made quite a few pens and tried every finish I could find. In the end I never found any that lasted except the CA which could be considered a one step application. I loved the way the HUT one/two combo looked but it isn't durable at all.

The last couple of groups I made I put lacquer or poly on them from a rattle can and let them dry for a couple of weeks. I buffed them on the Beall system, and assembled the pens. The finish was good looking and durable. You just have to make sure you are in the mood to get the stuff out to buff and assemble your pens two weeks after turning.

It wasn't too bad for me as I turned about 5 - 10 at a time, but I would probably opt out for the CA if it was just one or two.

As always, YMMV.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

Hi all, thanks for the replies. Some useful tips there and I'll be trying them out in the next few weeks. Thanks again.

Reply to
John

Hey John

Where do you get the melamine polish?

Reply to
fwtx817

If all else fails, turn a few corian pens... can't hurt the buggers and folks think they're marble..

Great buffing compound for them is tooth paste..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

In the UK Axminster sell it . the brand is 'Chestnut' its not strictly a polish but a lacquer, so a quick Google should reveal lots of sources and other brands

Reply to
John

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