Red Cedar Finish

Western red, or eastern? Eastern has a lot more resin and oil in it. You normally want to use a sealer like shellac or lacquer to keep the oils (turps!) and resins from lifting your finish. Warm and dry may do for it, but next time seal first with one of the two I mentioned.

Probably not related to your problem but...I've been having a devil of a time getting Minwax wipe on poly to dry on a few pieces. The last two were untreated ash and canarywood. I don't think it was too humid or cold in the shop for it to set properly. I've since put the can in the back of the finishing cupboard!

Tom

This is not Wipe-on Poly; however, that's the way I am applying it. The first coat anyway.......since it soaks in so quickly. The following coats were sprayed on from a spray can. Same stuff though. I've never had a problem before, even with Eastern Red Cedar. Thanks.

Barry

I guess I should have thought of that. Would Deft work as a sealer? Maybe I should have used Deft in the first place. I haven't had a problem in the past. Thanks.

Barry

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in news:pDaje.1315$ snipped-for-privacy@bignews1.bellsouth.net:

It's not likely the humidity. A lot of the cedars (and they vary quite widely) have natural properties which cause finishes to refuse to cure.

I've had problems with Western Red Cedar and otherwise good spar varnish, as well as all kinds of finishes used in blanket and 'treasure' chests, with aromatic cedar 'closet lining' floors.

I don't have the answer for you, but thought I'd lead you to research the right problem, perhaps.

I settled on wax, or left it unfinished (or opened and well ventilated, to cure a 'neighboring finish'.

Patriarch

Deft Lacquer, surely.

I just gave up and stripped off the poly, sanded the bowl lightly and applied a couple of coats of Deft. No problems..........bone dry within minutes.

Barry