Sanding LDD treated wood

LDD is for green wood, and not for "punky spalted"; or have I missed something?

Bjarte

Soft brass brush will do the clean. Stiff nylon toothbrush in a pinch. You don't have to rush to sand while the surface is full of glycerol, you know. It'll evaporate in a couple of days.

On wet stock - no LDD, just wet - I generally just run a sand at 120 or 150 after spinning out as much moisture as possible, reserving the 220 and 320 for when it's dry (er). They clog too badly, else. Just be careful not to overheat when it's getting dry.

Yep, high-suds/humectant-added hand washing stuff is what he preaches. Madge is gone, but we still have Leif.

Well!! You just wait until I have completed all the operations, George! Ol' Madgie will be back in town!!*G*

A side note about the topic, all the advice given is good. The thoroughly punked out wood that I have turned, didn't have any green wood portions, so I didn't bother with LDD. Some punky wood still has green areas and then I would use LDD. For really punky wood I used repeated dowsings of wood hardener. Seemed to work just fine!

Definitely dishwashing soap (washing up soap for the more UK/Oz/NZ oriented?)

Leif

Hi Leif Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD treatment for works like this.

Rod

Rod, old chap! The article I sent out dealt with my problem waiting on wood to dry under the old, hoary methods. Perhaps I wasn't specific enough in the article, but it dealt with green wood. As to soaking overnight, that pretty well applies to green wood, or green wood that is getting to the punky stage.

Most of your questions are answered in my 'World-famous Treatise on LDD.' CA glue works great on any of the bowls whose wood is damp from the LDD. Finish adheres very nicely to even slightly damp bowls!!

You're heading in the right direction, just don't soak badly punked logs or blanks for the reasons learned above. Ron Kent's article was never updated by him, so we don't know the experience he had with the changes he suggested he would do in the LDD technique. As to his slathering on LDD in successive treatments, I deemed that too time consuming, messy and boring so went directly to the soak-them method.

Leif

Rod, old chap!Please re-read the . I would say that most of your answers are to be found there. Briefly, the article dealt with green wood. It can be immediately turned after you have cut and stolen your neighbor's tree. He won't recognize it in the LDD or after it has been turned. Green wood you can soak for a few minutes if you have to leave the shop for a bit, or can stay on mounted on the lathe. Can be dangerous. If you are to be gone for a while, soak it for a few hours, a few months or a few years. Just don't soak extremely punky wood. The finish will adhere to a slightly damp object, so put it on immediately to prevent cracking or warping. I like natural edged bowls also and the CA glue works just fine on slightly damp ones.

Leif

What you're doing is the type of work _least_ likely to crack while drying. Interrupted-edge stuff is generally turned thin from the get-go and allowed to warp quietly. My experience says 3/8 or less has to be abused to get it to crack.

I'd suggest opening the ears and flying without the feather here. Lots of wood has been dryed defect-free with no outside influence. Here's an example which should have cracked for certain with pith and all.

Reason it's a touch thick is that it was so punky and soggy it was moving too much to get an accurate gouge cut. That, and there was a guy inside looking at me. Once your piece is dry, the only chemistry which might bother you would be the extra surfactant flattening a water-based finish.

work just fine!

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mac

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