Some sticky questions

Arch

I have settled on using CA Thin and Thick for the majority of the sticky requirements I run into.

In the past, I have used Titebond, Gorilla Glue, 2 part Epoxy and Spray on

All of these are useful, but I am more concerned about the viscosity of the thin CA going into the small cracks and between bark edges. I use the thick CA for inlays and filling small voids if I ever find one to fill - as you know I only turn perfect wood and never see a void or a crack or even a bark inclusion!

The most difficult glue I have ever run into is Gorilla Glue - it bubbles and oozes out of the bonded section and is not a quick bonding as I would like - but who am I to criticize a well known and useful material?!

Ray

If I recall correctly, the instructions specifically say not to remove the plastic strip when installing shingles. Billh

We found the same thing. But it could be worse. My sister lives on the water in Punta Gorda. When she and my brother-in-law went up to replace shingles, they found that the plywood was barely tied down. One sheet had all of six nails in it, only two of which had actually hit the trusses. They are now re-doing the whole roof. Makes me wonder about our roof!

All of which reminds me of one friend who moved to Key West and had no trouble finding work with local contractors, though he had no professional building experience. He was also a drunk and, unless he changed his ways to make a good impression, worked with a beer in easy reach. However, he was a New Hampshire drunk; he actually showed up for work, put in a full day's work, and bothered to do it right. None of the contractors expected that from the locals.

Owen Davies

Absolutely. The strip is there to keep them from adhering to each other in the package. The reveal used on installation should put the fresh tar off of the strip.

So much for rec.crafts.roofing. It was a poor can opener. ;) How about your opinions re the characteristics of various glues and adhesives used in your turning shops? Are the 3/8" transparent glue sticks and little glue guns from craft shops satisfactory for holding 8" green blanks?

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

Sorry, but I don't quite understand that. I have been doing an excess of shingle replacement in the wake of the Florida hurricanes, and those strips are still on all the old shingles. There is no sign that any of the shingles have adhered to the one underneath, as it seems they would have done if the (paper, in this case) strips had been removed. And if that is not the purpose of that band of tar, I can't think what it would be.

FWIW, in my ignorance I have been pulling the cellophane strip off the tar and expect the shingles to survive the next hurricane a lot better as a result.

Owen Davies

Why, don't you have a chuck?

Working with faceplates is just too much trouble, and a lot of the techniques used for centering and holding are imitations of what a chuck does.

You'd be better to pay attention to what really holds the shingles.

Arch I use regular glue sticks and a 40 watt gun. One of these days I hope to find an 80 watt gun but just because it will speed up the heating process. The regular glue gun and glue sticks work well for me.

By the way George, face plates came first, I believe, and chucks imitate the actions of facepaltes and glue blocks. That said, a chuck is often a useful item.

Arch, I'm not sure I'd trust hot melt glue for holding a blank to a glue block. The type I've used before is mostly for craft-type applications, and it never gets really hard, and it's not that difficult to pry pieces apart that have been glued with it. Better to use thick CA glue. Christian Burchard uses thick CA on the glue block and sprays accelerator on the blank before mating it to the glue block. It sets up in seconds and he's ready to go. He works with wet madrone blanks a lot and it works for him. Before using hot melt glue I'd do a test--glue two pieces together and then pry them apart with a screw driver or chisel. You'll probably find that it will cleanly separate from at least one of the surfaces.

-Jim Gott- San Jose, CA

"After the shingles have been exposed to sufficient sunshine to activate the sealant, inspect roofing to ensure that the tabs have sealed. Also, shingles should be of ?interlocking? type if seal strips are not present. "

That indicates to me that they also expect the sealant should be exposed to the one underneath, or am I missing something?

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

I've been using hot glue for about 3 years now. I use either a glue gun to glue down the faceplate or dip the face plate into a "vat" of hot glue depending on the size and weight of the blank. In preperation for gluing the faceplate I first blow any dust of the wood and in the case of heavier pieces I heat the faceplate first.

This has worked > >>

I know what holds the shingles and deal with it just fine. You expressed an opinion that doesn't make much sense to me. Back it up, if you can. What's the tar strip for, and why put it there at all if you're going to leave paper or cellophane over it?

Ah yes, the egg was the source of the chicken. It's just what the chuck does by design has to be done to the block.

Then, if you look at spring pole turning, there's a mandrel sort of like my pin chuck involved. Saw one in operation on a Roy Underhill show a couple weeks ago, including use of a hook tool to hollow. I had always puzzled over how the tool was employed on cross-grain items, and they had a couple of shots showing the cut. Pretty much sets it the way we use a nose-down bowl gouge, wedging against the rest and peeling his way in. I did a 10x10 beech "natural edge" the other day where the only tool that would reach to hog was my 3/4 (5/8) Sorby, and almost reached for the Termite to try it. Then I realized I had almost an hour in the piece and only another couple of inches in depth to go, so I figured I should go with what I knew. Experiments are for scrap, not projects.

The reference is to the sealant you apply, if I read it correctly. Proper reveal and nailing would preclude much lifting to check the other. They recommend you seal the tabs on eaves and edges, as this is the place where the roofing, versus a shingle here and there, fails.

Arch wrote:>One surprising cause of so many shingles being separated from roof

Uh, Arch, trust me, the strip of cellophane is only there so the shingles don't stick together in the bundle... Once applied, or strewn about in the sun, they stick. More than likely, the fasteners were improperly installed. That, or it was a heckuva wind! Tom Work at your leisure!