Talc as Rust Protection

Weekly? Sounds more like a minimum preventative method. IMHO there are much better methods.

Well, that's what I thought. I have been using Slipit for a couple of years with pretty good success, but thought this was kinda interesting. Works on you feet, works on your jointer.

Good for man or machine!

Yep - and machines are good for the man!

Congrats on the new machine, I should be so lucky (or blessed). But I would not do that and can understand why from BillH's experience, I would think that the powder would actually collect and hold moisture from natural condensation, keeping it there. It is no doubt in my mind that a giant company passing on such information would really be needing an owner to buy a new table "when" it becomes over rusted from possible neglect, no matter who the future owner would be. I could be totaly wrong and if I needed to I would read-up on it from other sources.

Companies go crazy figuring out people and their naivete´, and how to make as much money as is possible. Every tiny damn detail of whatever is taken into account by business engineers. As a bad example, a long time ago, American Airlines decided to remove one olive from each and every salad that is served on flights. In one year that saved them $40,000.xx -fact.

Go with something made for the job like Top Coat or like BillH, paste wax. Not Boshield though, it is for protecting machinery from rusting during storage. I like Ace super oil, made to be a cheaper 3-in-one you can smell the parrafin in it, which nicley stays as a thin coating on the metal.

Alex (my only machine is a mini DP, but everything I said is the way I think)

I'd be a little worried about that... while I'm guessing that the talc is to absorb moisture, I'd worry about it attracting too much moisture and causing a rust pit..

Depending on whether or not the surface will contact wood, (drill press quill doesn't, saw table does a lot), I use "3-in-1" oil, silicon spray or well buffed paste wax..

Disclaimer: I am far from an expert and frequently am wrong, especially in the morning before proper caffine/nicotine level is reached, or in the evenings, when proper alcohol level is reached...

by business

FWIW, according to a tape I have by motivational speaker Bob Harrison, AA surveyed 1st class passengers, then removed the unwanted olive.

-- Mark

Well, if you can find talc powder. Most of what we call talc powder seems to be marketed as 'baby powder' and is actually largely corn starch if memory serves.

Talc powder is finely ground soapstone I think - not sure I'd want that getting into my bearings and such. Think I'll stick to waxing the surface of my machines...

...Kevin

WD-40's rust prevention lasts about three days. Just ask anyone who's ever worked in a bicycle shop where customers use it as chain lube.

Would you have had rust if you'd used nothing?

Barry

I have a Grizzley jointer that is about 10 years old and it came with the same instructions. I had some talc that was used to install inner tubes in aircraft tires so I tried it. I kept up the practice for about two years and it worked and although I haven't applied talc recently the jointer still doesn't rust like my table saw and lathe bed. I live in the hot humid south and if it'll work here it'll work anywhere.

: Well, if you can find talc powder. Most of what we call talc powder : seems to be marketed as 'baby powder' and is actually largely corn : starch if memory serves.

And a good thing too, as a lot of talc contains asbestos.

-- Andy Barss

You do realize that the WD 40 does not last on a chain because it gets slung off. I use on 3 bike chains when putting the bikes up for extend periods of time. No Rust.

It dries quickly, there's nothing to fling off!

Don't you live in Texas? You probably wouldn't get rust if you used cooking oil. Here in the Northeast, metal can rust if you look at it wrong, and all the chains we get that were "lubed" with WD-40 are rust buckets.

The only part of a chain that needs lube are the internal pins, within the bushings. Chain manufacturers, like Shimano, Sachs, and SRAM, install a grease when they assemble the chain. WD-40 will remove this grease and leave nothing. If you really want to prevent rust and lube the chain, without buying expensive "bike specific" products, use chain saw bar oil or air tool oil. Wipe as much as you can off after you apply it. The film will last a good long time. Even better are the dry lubes and wax based lubes sold for the purpose.

Anything left on the outside of a chain simply attracts dirt, which grinds your expensive chainrings and cassettes away.

Your chains may not rust, but they're no longer lubricated, either, if you're using WD-40.

Barry Who puts 4-5000 miles a year in a bike saddle, some of it off-road.

Sounds like paid business propaganda. I love olives, I would never do that! Alex

If it has corn starch in it, it will say so on the label. Otherwise it is talc, whether it's baby powder, body powder, foot powder, or the white powder on your white rice (yep, really).

While talc is mineralogically related to soapstone, they're not the same thing. Talc is softer, and neither will hurt your lathe...he didn't say to powder it like you were changing the baby, after all!

-- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. <

September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

Andy Barss

And talc is in crayons.

UA100

Is it anything as creepy as "waking up with The King"?

UA100