I recently finished my first bowl intended to be a gift -- a wedding gift. It's made of Jatoba (Brazillian Cherry) and finished with a few coats of Tru-Oil and Briwax.
Here's my question: what should I write on the card regarding using the bowl with food (are thoses finishes food safe or do I need to add or subtract something?), or how to care for it or how it should be cleaned?
I'm curious as to what you all tell (or don't tell) your customers about the use and care of your bowls.
Thanks, as always in advance to for your coniseration . . . Dick
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A
AHilton
Depending on the brand of Tru-Oil (basically a varnish) used, it most likely has boiled linseed oil (not the actually "boiled" variety) and is toxic.
If you used the "Original" Briwax then it has Toluene as an ingredient. It's also highly toxic.
If you believe (as many do) that given enough time and the right conditions any wood finish will eventually become non-toxic, then all you have to do is just wait (or give it to the newlyweds and let them know that *they* should wait or just not use it for food-contact) for those toxic ingredients to evaporate. This could be as short as a couple of weeks or as long as several years, by the way. They key, in my humble opinion, is that you won't actually know when the toxics are gone. Far too many variables to take a guess .... far too expensive to do a non-invasive (to not take chunks out of the bowl) test periodically.
If, on the other hand, you don't believe (as many do) all finishes are eventually food-safe or it's just going to take too much time to (maybe ... eventually) become foodsafe then you can just tell them that it's not food-safe or make them another one that does have a food-safe finish if a food-safe bowl is what you're after.
Personally, if the kitchenware item isn't food-safe once I deliver it to the customer/buyer then I don't label it as such. It *may* be food-safe in a week or two with various finishes but I'm not going to take that chance with their health. I take chances with my own health all the time but it doesn't mean I'm going to do it with other peoples.
I label all of my wooden kitchenware items as:
1) IS food-safe and give them the actual finish used .. they like that
2) NOT dishwasher safe ... no way and no how!
3) NOT water immersible (don't submerge in water)
4) NOT microwavable, freezer-safe, or oven-safe (you'd be surprised why I added this one!)
5) Suggest a wipe-down with a food-safe oil (walnut, mineral, tung, sunflower, etc.) periodically
6) Should be wiped clean immediately after use with just a damp towel.
Of course, I word it differently but that's the basics.
- Andrew
R
Ruth
Dick, Suggestion for message on card:
This bowl was created especially for you and may be used as a salad bowl, fruit bowl or to hold a collectible display. It will last for many years, has a natural finish but should not go in the dishwasher or microwave. If, after many washings, it becomes dry and, if you wish, it may be rubbed down with a natural oil or wax. Enjoy
This is what I write on cards I put in all the bowls I sell (I don't put the "especially for you" part in).
Ruth
Woodturners Logo My shop and Turnings at
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E
Ecnerwal
Tell us the tale, please...
A lot of "tung" oil isn't (so you'd want to warn them about that), and sunflower (& etc.) oil will go rancid (on/in the wood) IME. The only solution for a bowl impregnated with rancid oil is the fireplace, so far as I know. Nasty.
A
AHilton
I added the "NOT microwavable, freezer-safe, or oven-safe" line to my kitchenware tags because (to make a long and frustrating customer service issue really short) a lady took one of my bowls and stuffed it full of a left-over spaghetti / lasagne type of dish then proceeded to freeze it for a couple of days ... microwave defrost / warm it and then sprinkle cheese over it and melt the cheese in the oven. She called wondering why ...
1) Her leftovers didn't warm correctly
2) Her (once) nice bowl was smoking
3) There was a nice big crack along the bottom of the bowl (that wasn't already there )
I sent her a new bowl because I just couldn't believe she had done all of that. I now put that line in there.
So true about the "Tung" in "Tung Oil Finishes". Very little, if any, in many of the commercial mixtures. Perhaps I should take out the Tung all together as the actual Tung Oil is so hard to find for most customers.
Sunflower oil is naturally resistant to going rancid and is a good penetrating (although not a hardening) oil to use. I've never had a problem with my or my customers' using Sunflower oil on any of my woodturning or woodwork kitchenware. Vegetable oil and Canola Oil, for example, ARE notorious for going rancid, however, and I don't use or recommend them.
- Andrew
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