Which turning tools to go with?

What have you been using up to now? Do you need a set or would individual tools better replace what you use the most?

I have Sorby, Crown, Ashley Iles, and Serious Lathe tooling. I've liked them all - however, when I look to replace tools I generally head for the Crown PM (powdered metal) if it's available in the profile I want. I've found the Crown PM tools have about an inch longer flute over the extra 40% charged for the Sorby's. In other words, pay less and get more tool. Also, the PM edge seems to me to last longer than standard hi-speed steel.

Just my 2 cents... though I would like to hear from you about the two questions at the top.

If you just want to break bowls, the Harbor Fright tools will do. Oh, and I can give lessons in bowl breaking, if you need pointers. :o)

Might want to take a look ar Shopsmith. Their tools are OEM Sorby at a much cheaper price.

Dan, You will need to gain experience in sharpening. This eats metal. It's better to practice on cheap tools, like Harbor Freight.

The HF set dosn't have any bowl gouges.

You may want a slow speed grinder (Woodcraft's, on sale, is a good buy) and a grinding jig (Wolverine).

They're for your hobby, are you worth it?

Are the cheap tools false economy? I use a Jet mini lathe,

Probably makes no difference once you've removed the rough edges and turned some handles for the HF set. They've got a bit less length, but you don't want overhang as a general rule.

You've some experience under your belt already, so your choices are tools of the same pattern - why - or tools of new pattern. Of the things I use most, 1 1/4" roughing gouge and forged or Continental pattern gouges, if you don't have any. Never learned to use I tool I didn't have.

For a mini, a deep gouge with no more than 3/8 across the flute would be adequate.

That would depend on what tools you want - from your post I'm assuming you already have some. Some makers are more or less favoured for particular styles.

Generic cheap Harbour Freight are _not_ what to get. You can get so much better than these, and if you're buying your second chisels then it's time to move up. Of the UK makers then any of the big names (Sorby, Henry Taylor) are great. Unusually I'd also recommend Crown (what I usually buy). Their bench tools are poor, but the turning chisels are good. Nice grade of HSS that holds an edge well.

The answer to "why" is somewhat embarrassing. My sharpening skills, or rather lack of sharpening skills has removed a significant amount of length from the steel, probably well beyond what was tempered. Also, the tools I'm replacing are the ones that came with the lathe.

Thanks

Dan

Current tools:

1/2" skew, ground to a nub Diamond parter 3/8" spindle gouge 3/8" bowl gouge (a Crown)

I'm thinking a set would open me up to new possibilities in turning.

I definitely need a sharpening system. I tried a 100 grit Norton wheel on the lathe, and also the "razor sharp" wheels from Woodcraft but my free hand sharpening skills are non existent.

Dan

Dan:

This is a question a little like "which coffee should I drink?" Lots of good advice based on a lot of personal experience, but only you know which one is right.

If you get this set from HF, many have found it to be very servicable. A couple of the guys that teach in our club recommend them to folks to learn grinding wood, and more importantly, grinding tools:

$35 isn't much to spend on one tool, much less 8. Lots of folks will tell you not to buy a set - I agree if it is the $200 Woodcraft set, the $350 - $400 Sorby, Crown, Hamlet, etc. You will find as your skills and preferenced develop that you will only use a coupld of the tools out of a set. But you have to try all of them to some extent to decide which ones to buy. THEN spend the dough and get the good stuff that costs $$$ when you know which tools you want. But at HF also they sell another 8 piece set in the stores, and they are junk. These are easy to spot as they set sells for something like $10 when it is on sale. But, the tools are good to grind into a shape that does one special thing that you don't use often Think of them as middle of the road tool steel stock that has been handled.

I have some Henry Taylor tools that I bought years ago at Craft Supplies. I bought the "Artisan" grade as there was a significant difference in the price off their regular line. The Artisan line is different only in the fact that they do not go to the final polishing on the tools. The finish is similar to that of the current top line Sorby tools. Since they no longer polish them out, the finish is now referred to as "satin".

One of the most important things you can learn about woodturning is sharpening. Great tools mean nothing without a usable edge. And it is a tearful experience to see someone grind the snot out of a really expensive tool just because they won't spend the money on a jig, get a good book on sharpening, or practice, practice, practice. I always want to give them an old screwdriver or piece of rebar to practice on, not a $65 chisel.

Since sharpening seems to be an issue, I would strongly suggest that you go here:

Spend a few hours there, it is well worth it. There are a lot of tips and techniques there that you will find invaluable.

Robert

Robert, thanks for the nod to the site as blow my own horn. I like to turn and I like to make tools, plus I hate to spend money. Dan, try my site and it may give you a heads up on some tools to make before you get a set. I have a nice set from Record and some individual tools I have picked up over the years and I seldom use any but the home grown variety. For what it is worth, take the time to make the sharpening jig. It will improve your sharpening and turning immediately.

Other than replacing your 1/2" skew with a new one, you have a good basic set of tools. Perhaps a 1/2" round nose scraper could be added. Don't expect new tools to substitute for developing new turning skills.

As a friend of mine once told me as I shopped for yet another tool for hollowing boxes, "You don't need a new tool, you just need to learn how to use the ones you already have."

I think I would concentrate on learning to use the tools you currently have, only buying new tools as you have an actual need for them. It's very easy to have a whole box full of turning tools and not know how to use any of them well. Less is more.

Barry

A set would probably be too much duplication. The rest depends in what you turn.

A big roughing gouge lets you start with lumpy green wood, which means cheap wood, and that has to be a good thing. A biggish flat skew turns good accurate cylinders or shallow cones. A 1/2" oval skew rolls out your beads. A smaller spindle gouge might be easier for turning small coves and fine detail. All of these are "standard" chisels, before you even go near the weird stuff.

I went to my local Woodcraft store this afternoon.

Hummm...

$35 for the Pinnacle 3 piece pen turning set or $35 for the Harbor Freight 8 piece set.

I went with the Pinnacles, since I mostly turn pens/pencils.

I will need a big roughing gouge, eventually. There is a lot of construction here in Cedar Park, TX. Lots of white/red/live oak, pecan, cedar, mesquite for the taking...

Dan

From what I have read here (and checking the archives) the Harbor Freight 8 pc. set is actually quite decent and considering Dan's admission that he needs some time to develop his sharpening skills, I think the HF option is a good one. I see now, Dan, that you have gone a different route and I hope it works out for you. I have been faced with the same decision and have ordered the HF chisels to replace the ones I sold with my old lathe (1980 Craftsman) and plan to do as nailshooter suggested, grind my set of Buck Brothers (that came with my "new" old Rockwell 42-525 lathe) into scrapers or custom shapes as the needs arise. I also have some hss tool bits coming and plan to make an Oland tool (THANKS Darrell)

Anyway, that seems to be the advice that's been handed out many times here and it makes sense to me. That's not to say I don't look forward to adding some NICE tools along the way as I am better able to recognize what my needs are. My 2 cents, Lenny

Lenny wrote:

Well said. Home Depot has an 8" Ryobi grinder for about $60. If I couple that with either homemade jig or the Wolverine system I'll be set. And I do have a skew that's about 2" shorter than new.

Cheers and thanks for all the help/hints

Dan

That grinder will cost you far more than that in chisels. Get a big water cooled SLOW stone ($100 for entry-level). It's a better finish and it's slower, so it's easier to control.

Woodturning chisels and gouges are much easier to sharpen than bench chisels and planes - yes, even gouges. Practice the hand movements first with the grinder switched off. Sharpen up a few nails or bits of rebar too and see how the shapes develop.

good point...

I remember a year or so ago I got flamed for buying the cheap HF chisels for $10 on sale to practice sharpening on... IMHO, it turned out to be a good move since they're REALLY short now and I'm able to apply what I learned (good and bad) to grinding my good chisels...

Most folks don't learn to use hand tools by working with exotic woods, why mess up good steel when learning to sharpen?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hang on to those "short" skews, especially if they have fairly short handles..

On most lathes, they're really handy for working the back end of a bowl near the head stock... on my jet 1442, you need something pretty short to get around the back without changing the tool angle to avoid the speed control handle..

Also, you can't have too many skews, because you can regrind them to useful angles... 90 degrees works well for cleaning up tenons before reverse chucking,

20 or 30 degrees gets in where your "normal" skew won't reach, etc...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

SNIP .............

==================== To clear up a common misconception; there are 2 different sets of turning tools sold by Harbor Freight. There is one set that sells in the $ 8-12 range, depending on whether or not the're on sale. The other set is usually around $35-40, and are made from M2 HSS. The first set is only good for sharpeneing practice or for low usage special purpose grinds. The HSS set is not great, and what you'll probably use from it are the spindle gouges, skews, and scrapers. There are no bowl gouges in this set, so you'll need to look at Crown, or P&N, or similar brands for a low cost bowl gouge when yoou're ready for bowls. That way, you come up with a serviceable basic set for under $100. That's what you can spend for one gouge from some of the big names. I don't advocate this for a production turner, but for a beginner, it will work for a while until you understand what you want in your replacement tools. Just MHO, YMMV.

Ken Moon Webbervile, TX.