why do I have such erroneous ideas when...

I know from the teachings of my betters that I am very much mistaken, but.....

why don't the different size jaw sets of my chucks overlap so my tenons won't always fall into the gap?

why do I seem to cut easier and get smoother surfaces when I speed up the lathe spindle when I've been told that slow is just as efficient as fast?

why does worn out sandpaper seem to make a fair finish?

why do my non-turning friends, including several recognized artists, prefer shiny bowls instead of proper muted grain and why aren't they thrilled with bark edges?

why aren't people obsessed with the perfect form, thin walls and fine bottoms?

why does my mineral oil finish appear to be dry when I know it can't be?

why does jelly wax and kitchen oil seem to produce about the same finish as expensive waxes and oils with strange sounding names?

why can't I understand that the turning of wood is a serious, almost holy calling, levity is a sin and to aspire for anything less than absolute and total perfection leads to excommunication?

why do the great pieces I see in instant galleries often leave me a little depressed while I view average work with avid enthusiasm and satisfaction?

why is confession so good for the soul of a misguided woodturner?

why not confess your own mistaken ideas that somehow seem workable?

Arch

Fortiter,

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Reply to
Arch
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This is actually one of my pet peeves with chuck manufacturers, especially at the smaller diameters. There are many times when I could really use a 1.5" jaw set, or some other odd size. The one inch jaws will expand to this size but their gripping power is very much reduced and the small contact area means that they bite into the wood and mark it.

Considering that most jaws are at their optimum performance at one diameter only (when they form a perfect circle) there is a real need for a wider selection of sizes. One would have thought the manufacturers would jump at the chance of having something else to sell us.

Who told you that???

If it holds porridge, its good enough for me:)

Reply to
Derek Andrews

snip

I have always appreciated fine bottoms.

Reply to
Gerald Ross

============================= To teach the unteachable to turn different size tenons ===============================

================== Are you sure?? ==================

====================== As it wears, you have he effect of variable grit paper; works best with variable speed machines! =================================

=========================== ignorant heathens come from all strata =========================

======================== I am, but probably more in women than in bowls =========================

====================== eyes can and will deceive =========================

===================== that's called marketing ===================

============== you may need more dogma lessons ====================

==================== the depression comes from the "Why doesn't mine look like that?" and the enthusiasm comes from "I can do better than that!" =======================

You can't carry that burden forever =================

======================== ...... and let them show you how it will work???

-=================== Ken Moon Webberville, TX

Reply to
Ken Moon

Why can't I get rid of a plain bowl, but natural edge bowls sell like hotcakes?

Reply to
Derek Hartzell

Reply to
Rick Spivey

"Rick Spivey" wrote: I've noticed that people around here have died that have never died before (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's not good. Suggest you move to another area before it's too late.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I have several templates of the WRONG size of tenons and as long as its bigger or smaller, they work fine.

You've been told by conservative turners (non-politically speaking, of course). Personally, I spin as fast as I dare, which is probably beyond "safety standards" (whatever they are). I keep out of the throw zone (most of the time) and I buy fluorescent bulbs by the case. They end up being cheaper than sandpaper.

Personally I like very shiney bark edge bowls....because they sell the best!

Form and bottoms, yes. Thin walls are only meant to impress other woodturners.

Peter Teubel Milford, MA

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Reply to
Peter Teubel

Thanks to our great paramedics, we have people living around here who have died before. Arch

Fortiter,

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Reply to
Arch

Daughter had one two weekends ago - her first. She was pretty proud, you can bet.

Reply to
George

Get a set of "soft jaws", and turn them to the desired diameter on a metal lathe.

Set a small grinder (Dremel or a die grinder) with grinding stone in position and grind the jaws you already own.

Maybe someone would be kind enough to invent pads that swivel for hardened jaws.

Or you could plan your tenon to match the size jaws you have available.

Considering that I am a total noob, feel free to ignore everything I wrote above.

Bill

Reply to
Anonymous

I have considered turning wooden jaws, but it would be cheaper to buy manufactured jaws.

Tenons aren't usually the problem. Sometimes there is the need to hold nearly finished objects to turn off the tenon.

There are of course ways around these problems, but a set of 1.5" jaws would be a much more convenient solution.

Reply to
Derek Andrews

Or - you could use a recess and not have to fool with reversing at all to "finish" the bottom. Centers automatically, and if you want a 1.5" to 2.25 " foot, you use a 25mm. From there on up - 50mm.

If I used ten> > Get a set of "soft jaws", and turn them to the desired diameter on a metal > > lathe.

Reply to
George

Reply to
Anonymous

When you can read the newspaper through the turning you're gettin' close.

Reply to
Owen Lowe

From a Woody Guthrie song, referring to soup during the depression: "It was so thin you could read a newspaper through it. If it had been any thinner some of them Congressmen could have seen through it."

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Plain bowls are for functional use. Few people buy bowls for function. They buy for decorative or artistic reasons. Simple conclusion: people buy unique shapes and approaches.

Earl

Reply to
Earl

Here's a simply experiment: Take a very sharp knife and do a very slow cut on a stick of wood, pushing away from your body. Now do the same thing with a fast cut. Which is smoother? Fast cut. Why? Less time for you knife to follow the grain in and out of the soft and hard spots.

I don't believe a slow cut is as efficient all things being equal. However, when you are having problems, a fast catch will gouge deeper, improper tool holding will skitter across the wood faster, so slow is often better.

Who says "proper muted grain?" That just may be what some turners try to pass off because they don't want to take the time to do a proper finish. Most people also prefer shiny, smooth wood on furniture. Look at Grand Pianos. Would anybody buy a flat finish on a piano? Most people love the feel of glassy smooth wood.

Same kind of response: who says "perfect form?". There is no such a thing. People buy what speaks to them, gives them some kind of emotional response. "Perfect form" is a fictitious idea propogated by the proponents of rigid ides about form, not the real world. When I buy a piece of art and I walk buy it, I want to have a good feeling, not a rational discourse on on some theorectical idea.

Earl

Reply to
Earl

In some markets, on some days.

Reply to
George

There is also the fact that your body is better able to absorb higher frequency vibration.

Reply to
Derek Andrews

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