In the round: jogless jog or don't twist or ...

Tipped off by WoolyGooly a few days ago, I looked into the "jogless jog" to deal with the pulling up of the last stitch in one round into the next round, killing the smoothness of the pattern when the color changes from one round to the next. I haven't tried it yet, but it sounded like it would just cause a different kind of trouble because it pushes the whole round over one stitch. At least, that was my understanding: stitch

1 of the new round would be on top of stitch 2 of the previous round. This sounded undesirable.

I also read suggestions that one can avoid twisting altogether, but then you have to weave in all the ends instead of just carrying the strands up the piece.

I messed around with other approaches and came up with one that seems to do the job. A picture is at

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shows my sample. The arrow points to the first stitches in each round.

The lower edge of the pink band at the bottom was done by changing color in what I understand to be the traditional way: bring the pink yarn up to the right of the white strange and cross it over to the left. The final white stitch pushes sharply into what's supposed to be the start of the first pink round.

The upper edge of the middle pink band was produced by starting the white one stitch early. No good: it causes the opposite problem. I really wasn't expecting an improvement, but thought I'd try it.

The other four pink band edges, including both edges of the top band, were produced by twisting in the opposite direction from the usual. The new strand comes up on the left side of the old strand, crosses over it to the right, comes down on the right, and then crosses under to the left. Then I start using it. One additional thing I did that in retrospect, now that I look at the photo, may not have been necessary and that I might have been even better off without: at the end of the first round after the color change, I tugged the old strand downward.

It seems *fairly* smooth to me, and I wonder if after blocking it would look even better.

What do you all think?

Reply to
Harlan Messinger
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The beginning of the round doesn't really move over. You start each round in the same place, but by lifting the first stitch of the round before the color change and dropping that stitch in front of the CC stitch you present the illusion of no break in the pattern. It works, really. Find a copy of Meg Swanson's Dubblemussa pattern (with photos) and have a look at the "standard" ITR cap and the "jogless color change cap" and you'll see.

If you're dropping a color but will be going back to it, of course you can just carry it up the work. If you're carrying it for more than an inch vertically you should plan to twist it in occasionally. But then again, if you're carrying for more than an inch you may want to break the yarn and join it in later to avoid bulk at the beginning of the round.

When I'm working stripes I bring the new yarn up from below and drop the old yarn over top. Next time I change the "old" yarn becomes the "new" yarn and is brought up from below while the working yarn drops over it. On the next round after a color change I tidy my join and use the jogless change to eliminate the jog.

Really. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel and give Meg's jogless color change a try. It works for stripes and for FI both. Especially useful for FI as it makes it appear as though the piece has no color changes or beginning of rounds at all. It sounds as if you haven't actually sat down and done hte knitting to test it yourself, merely examined written reports and decided it won't work.

Reply to
WoolyGooly

Megs pattern does work , why I don't know , but it works. I couldn't get your link to open ( might be my computer though) but if you have found a way you like better cool , I love that about knitting , you can invent or unvent and be happy and there are really no rules , except that you enjoy what you are doing. Coggie

Reply to
coggietm

It seemed like a reasonable conclusion--the people who describe how it works add, "Hey it does cause this other problem", and I didn't see any reason not to believe them. From what you're saying, though, either they misdescribed the situation or I misunderstood.

Reply to
Harlan Messinger

Sorry Herlan i must have missed the original , Are you knitting or crocheting in the round ? If you Crochet a sweater or any other item in the round , anything BUT a moebious i advice [ after more than 50 years crochet] that you turn the rows to avoid any leaning ,, Since you write that you pull a stich up it sonds like crochet ???? As i wrote above i am changing collors [ or rather adding colors to a Crochet Moebious ,,,,I do make 2 DC together with both threads ,,,with a little pulling and smoothing , the 2 threads together , there isn`t such a `big` disturbance in the smoothness ,,, If the change is done in knitting , do the change on one stitch before last onne ,,, the little Jump will get lost unless you are looking with binaculars .... I will have a look later , but i must admit , i am not such a perfectionist that it realy disturbs me , most people don`t look at every stitch anyway , and life isn`t perfect anyway. mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

Harlan , we are knitters and crocheters from all over the world ,some of us learned one method , some learned a second method ,,, we also share knowledge and experiences ,,, My greatest experience is that we all have to try , try try and see what works for EACH of us personaly ,,, with open eyes and ears to other`s experiences ,,, When i taught in groups i woulds show all my way , tell them it was my `home grown` way and that they are free to seek their own,,, there were usually one or two who went their own way , by trial ,,,,,,,and not always error ,,, Wooly is right ,, you should practic e a bit before judging ,,,, ps different wools MIGHT cause different problems and need different solutions ,,,, try and see ... mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

I just think you need to sit down and try it for yourself before you dismiss it out of hand based on a few reports of failure. It works for stripes, it works for FI/colorwork too. I can't twist your arm...

Reply to
WoolyGooly

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