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Lining Question

I have stitch n save 2463, "sleeveless princess seamed dress has scoop neckline and back zipper closure; jacket has long sleeves and front button closure."

The facings go from armhole to armhole, all around the neckline.

I bought a ton very inexpensive of black crepe-like stuff that is not quite opaque enough to be worn without a full slip. I am thinking of how to line the dress so I won't have to bother with the full slip thing. I have this vision of either a full lining, or a lining that goes up to the over-bra area and then turns into soft lace at about the point when the facings would have taken over.

Can I just make two dresses and join them together with the seams inside, making sure everything matches up before I put the zipper in? If I do it this way, how do I make sure the princess seams match up?

I have combined one pattern with another, invented sleeves and whatnot, but this is the first time I have played with a pattern that has two layers that must match up. Am I in over my head?

Generally I stay away from things that are lined because it seems like too much fuss. I want to change that because I want to increase my skills so I can move up to a higher level of garment quality.

AND, does anyone have pattern suggestions for simple lined items I could practice on? jackets, skirts, dresses?

Xena

Reply to
La Vida Xena
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There's a few ways you can handle this. If you haven't started making the dress yet, you could baste the lining and fabric pieces together and treat them as single pieces when you construct the dress (this method is only recommended if the fabrics combined (lining plus main fabric) still have a drape similar to the type of fabric intended for the pattern.

Alternatively, you could sew two dresses (one in the lining fabric and one in your main fabric), but when you insert the lining, keep the seam allowances on the inside (towards the body) instead of between the fabric layers. I'm not sure if my explanation makes sense...basically, keep the wrong side of the main fabric against the "right side" of the lining fabric, instead of wrong side to wrong side as is common with lined garments (maybe someone more seasoned than myself can offer tips on how to achieve that with a princess-lined garment :)).

Reply to
Gita

Make an exact copy of the dress in the lining pattern, without the facings. Sew them together at the neck, flip the lining to the inside (make sure the seam allowances are facing each other!), and slip stitch to the armholes and zipper tape. It's very easy. When you come to hem, make the lining about an inch shorter than the dress.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Just to be clear, do I put the zipper in (into the outside dress, not the lining, grin) before I sew them together at the neck?

How do I finish the arm holes? Press under a bit around the armholes without hemming, then tuck the lining into the pressed under part after I flip the lining to the inside of the dress? Or press under a bit around the armholes on both the lining and the dress, and slip stitch them together after it's flipped?

This newsgroup is ::stating the obvious:: a COOL RESOURCE!

Many thanks to all

Xena

Reply to
La Vida Xena

Yes.

Press the seam allowance on the outside fabric to the inside... You may have to clip it a bit to get it to lie flat: this means you make short snips in the fabric from the cut edge towards (but not through!) the seamline. Do the same with the lining, but turn just a tiny smidgen more to the inside: this way, when you slipstitch the two together, the lining will be slightly to the inside of the garment, and will fail miserably to show on the outside! :)

BTW, if the outside or 'fashion' fabric is a loose weave, you might want to cut some 'facings' in Vilene interfacing and baste them to the dress before you put the lining in: just cut the facing pieces and baste them inside the garment, then treat the two layers as one when you sew them together. You can pull the basting stitches out later if they show. I use a fine silk thread for basting most things (not standard Guttermann type machine sewing silk, but a finer one I get from Empress Mills. Best basting thread in the world!)

So it is! :)

You're welcome!

Reply to
Kate Dicey

It is possible to machine the armholes too. Bear with me while I think this one through, could show you in a jiffy, explaining in words not so easy. O.K. here goes... Stitch front to backs at shoulders, ditto lining. Do all the obvious stuff, pressing seam open etc.. lay dress out right side up, lay lining over top right sides together, pin, tack if you need to neck edge, stitch, trim, understitch, press. match armholes, wrong side together, pin etc, stitch, clip, understitch as far as possible. Depending on what type of zip you are putting in either stitch centre back seam, insert zip, or insert invisible zip, complete back seam (I find either kind of zip easier to put in whilst the garment is still flat) pin (tack) stitch fronts to backs wrong sides together, matching underarm seams, from hem edge to hem edge. hem as per your choice. Liz.

Reply to
Liz Cork

oops forgot to say that after stitching neckline and armholes you pull the garment right side out through the shoulder 'tunnels' and then put in zip etc... Liz

Reply to
Liz Cork

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