can we talk about quality findings and components? (long)

Sep 24, 2003 67 Replies

Thought maybe we could start this discussion anew... I'm sure you "oldies" have gone over this stuff a bunch of times for us "newbies", but I'm loving the little nuggets I'm picking up in the other thread - just not loving the sifting through it to find them...



so, please, tell us or comment on:



What are the best stringing materials?



Is tigertail ok to use? I like how easy it is, but don't love it when it gets a bend in it (say if my 3 year old gets his little paws on it - I may have to restring it if he crunches it.) I'm now worried about the first crimps I used - they may have been sterling, but they may have been base metal. Recent crimp purchases have all been sterling and I think they got mixed in. My feeling has been put two crimps on because I just don't trust this tiny little piece of metal to hold it all together anyway...



How about Fireline? I find this great when working with seed beads, but not so much for heavier beads... maybe if I doubled it.



Is silk cord that much better than the nice colored cotton cord I just found that looks like the silk cord necklace that was selling for $100 in a little boutique here?



I personally have moved away from all base metal findings - not so much because they won't last as long but because I was reading in my feng shui book that certain metals bring bad juju to us, so we should make sure all the jewelry we wear is made with quality metals - I agree with that, and don't want to bring anyone bad juju. So far my acceptable list includes: sterling, copper, and pewter. Maybe someday I will get into gold, but for now that is too expensive for where I am and I don't like gold filled things - I used to work in a jewelry store and always felt gold filled was "cheap" compared to the "fine" jewelry we sold.



It does bother me a little that I buy sterling beads and findings but they don't have the quality sterling stamp on them that I was taught to look for and rely on when working at the jewelry store. Wondering if I can get a little sterling stamp to put on my handmade sterling clasps? Maybe microstamp has that (note to self.)



I'm bummed to hear that lobster claws are not necessarily a good thing to use. I have about 30 of them on various pieces. And I bought this really expensive sterling barrel clasp for one of my nicer peyote tube necklaces... bummer again to hear that we should never use them. Maybe I should put a safety chain on the necklace then too? I'm feeling though in my gut that no clasp or finding is really completely safe. I have fine heirloom jewelry with clasps that open sometimes... and sterling clasps that bend or even my new hook type clasps that can come undone.... button closures slip off pretty easy too... so... Lobster claws are the only thing I've ever used that has never failed me personally in my 30+ years of wearing jewelry (not necessarily making it.)



And one final question I've been wondering about... why does hammering wire make it stronger??? I will hopefully find this out in my jewelry class that starts Thursday, but I have been wondering the why's of this.



Thanks :) Pam


Pam, I am sorry if I my post bummed you out. again, I did not say that all lobster clasps were bad. what I said was that it had a mechanism, and that things with mechanisms COULD fail. and that in every batch that came from the factory, some of them COULD be duds. I sell jewelry to folks all over the world, folks I will probably never see again, and I just can't stand the idea of selling them something that I myself don't completely trust. and that is why I don't use them. but I never said they would all break and all fail. I was just stating my opinion about why I, me, myself do not use them.

I work in a big bead shop, and we sell base metal lobster claws in many sizes, plus 8 different styles of SS lobster (this includes special shapes like dolphins) and 3 styles of gold filled (the ss and gold filled are extremely good quality!). we sell tons of these clasps, and some of them DO get brought back because they were faulty. this is my experience as someone who sells the clasps. the percentage of lobster and spring clasps returned because of a faulty mechanism is much much higher then the toggles or s-hooks. your experience, as someone who buys the clasps is different. if you like them, use them, please!

kellie

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ps~ I don't use tigertail anymore and I do double crimp, but I do it in a decorate way, for instance, crimp, nice bead, crimp and then the clasp. this way it looks like part of the design. or even better, crimp, nice bead, crimp, nice bead and then the clasp. you can see a bad picture of one of my double crimps here:

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Hi Pam! Great questions, I'm looking forward to reading answers.

I like to string on a three-ply nylon twist cord. Strong, easy to handle with no needle, yet fits through some very small beads, and scaled well for the bigger holed ones too. Nymo gets used for seed beads that are really small, and I sometimes mix threads in a multistrand necklace.

Silk is stronger than cotton. Lasts longer too--If knotting between beads, as in pearls, that's the fibre of choice.

Tigertail is great for hanging crystals and beads in windows. Metal will cut through crystals, crystals will cut through fibers. Tigertail does NOT hang well for necklaces, IMHO. Soflex is better, but I don't use it--I've just seen it used.

I often do not use clasps, not liking the way I fumble around as I try to get them to work. I am moving to silver hook and eye sets though--like the look and the wearability of both. I have used cheaper pinbacks and barrette findings purposely because my lines using them are not highpriced---but I am making the move to higher quality or not at all. I'm tired of the $5/$10 thing, and its time to move on now that my skills are also improved from where I started.

If you are concerned about the "juju" of metals, etc, then you may wish to avoid gold and diamonds, as these are associated with some very harsh gathering practices. Then, so are many other metals and stones--you may wish to learn more about juju and how to cleanse whatever comes to you of its clinging energies, or how to re-direct them.

And working makes us *all* stronger, not just the wires!! Sarajane

Sarajane's Polymer Clay Gallery

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view my auctions at:

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What are the best stringing materials?<

For the most part, I only use Softflex. It drapes well, resists abrasion and fracture and when crimped properly is very unlikely to break. For some multistrand necklaces I still use buttonhole-twist silk, but that's pretty rare these days. I find that even pearls work well on Softflex, and you can mix them with things that will eat through silk in a matter of days. I don't do seed beads, so can't comment on Fireline. On silk vs. cotton....silk will hold color better than cotton, but if you have especially acidic skin, your perspiration can rot silk in a fairly short time. Cotton will endure more, chemically, but doesn't respond well to abrasion, AND will stretch a lot more than silk over time.

I don't use base metal beads or findings, except some copper and brass beads (and occasional copper clasps for a unified look). For gold or silver I use goldfill, sometimes 18K (I prefer the color more than 14K), vermeil or sterling. I use the vermeil sparingly, but nothing matches my gold leaf beads as well as vermeil does. I try to make it "lay" in a way that other beads protrude beyond the vermeil surface, minimizing the risk of the gold rubbing off. It's that "rub off factor" that makes me avoid plated base metal beads, plus the risks of chemical reactions. And (insert ego here) I figure my stuff is good enough to deserve good metals. The one store I sell to in Scottsdale won't even accept pieces made with goldfill, they require sterling or 14/18K. I'm not about to argue.

don't have the quality sterling stamp on them that I was taught to look for and rely on when working at the jewelry store. <

My ex worked in a large findings house on Jeweler's Row in Philly. What I learned from him is that beads (for some old reason) and findings aren't required to be stamped, only larger objects like pendants, and usually that stamp is representative of the whole piece. I don't remember the exact wording, but basically that "representation" is the same for hallmarking in the UK.

Personally I swear by lobster clasps...the squared box style. I like the way they lay and line up with the rest of the necklace. It's true that anything mechanical is at risk of failing, but they way they're constructed is less risky, IMO, than a standard spring clasp. I like hook clasps a bunch (classic for pearls) but they're pricey AND difficult for some people to fasten. I also love EZ-lok's but again they're quite expensive in comparison. I dislike sliding box clasps and toggles the most because I think they have the highest risk of "structural failure" or operator error.

See my note to Carol about hammering wire. It makes it "harder" to a point because you're aligning and compressing the crystalline structure, but too much will cause the metal to be brittle and eventually to break.

My loose change for the day. KarenK

-- KarenK Desert Dreamer Designs

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vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from snipped-for-privacy@aol.compuppies (Dr. Sooz) :

]For the record, I never use tigertail either. UGH

i do - but only for a specialized purpose. when i NEED the wire to crimp.

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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's not what you take, when you leave this world behind you;it's what you leave behind you when you go. -- Randy Travis

vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from snipped-for-privacy@aol.compuppies (Dr. Sooz) :

]>It's the point at which you lose your nerve (mettle) when trying to anneal ]>something. ;-) ] ]Oh, you're GOOD.

second!

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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's not what you take, when you leave this world behind you;it's what you leave behind you when you go. -- Randy Travis

Silk is stronger than cotton -- but it will stretch. Before stringing something on silk, wet your fingers in water and pull the silk thru them. I'd advise practicing on things you don't mean to sell until you get the hang of getting the stretch out; there's nothing more discouraging than finishing a lovely knotted piece, wearing it a couple of times, and then discovering that the beads are now loose between the knots. :-(

Check with a professional about this; ISTR hearing that there are a bunch of hoops you have to jump thru in order to be able to put a sterling stamp on anything. It's a good idea, but you don't want to get in trouble by doing it!

This is definitely a matter of opinion. I use lobster clasps all the time, and have never had a problem with them. Where did you FIND a sterling barrel clasp? I've looked everywhere for those, and can't find anything but plated!

Safety chains aren't a bad idea, if you want to go to the extra trouble. I'd be more likely to use them on a bracelet than a necklace, though.

Celine

Do not hold it in the flame too long or it will melt. Shirley

In article , vj writes

I've seen this recommended before, and it makes a lot of sense to me...

Deirdre

I just got a *video* of Tim McCreight demo-ing the stuff from The Complete Metalsmith from the local library system.

It is wonderful. I heartily recommend it to anyone whose library system can provide. And if it isn't available, see if your system is like the one a used to work for ... where new purchases were driven by patron requests...

And there is always InterLibrary Loan.

Deirdre

I'll drink to that...

Deirdre

slips out. The spring is strong so it's very firm.<

Those sound really cool, Karen. I'm not sure I've ever seen them before.

Carol in SLC eBay auctions:

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(click on "view seller's other Items")

I -do- have the Rio catalog, as of last week. Yay!

I'll go and look, cuz I don't think I made much sense of your description, I'm afraid.

Deirdre

Here are my personal preferences and experiences -

I love Soft Flex for stringing. I usually use .14 or .19 thicknesses. I have also used .10 Soft Touch (same company) for more delicate stringing. I like the way this brand drapes, and it is very durable, with no kinking. Tiger Tail kinks really easily, and does not drape well. It's really good for practicing, though. I have not used Fireline - not out of any preference or anything, I just have not used it yet. I have used stretch magic, which is a fun way to make stretchy bracelets for kids. It will break, but it takes a pretty darn strong pull to do so. Silk is fabulous - really strong. And can give you a delicate, pretty look while still being durable. I have never used cotton as a stringing material before. Leather works really well with some things as well. As far as findings, I like sterling silver and copper. I also love pewter toggles - they have some really pretty ones outt here. I am not as fond of cast sterling. Sterling does tarnish, but I keep a silver polishing cloth handy for cleaning. I prefer toggle clasps more than any other clasp, but the only ones I have found that break on a regular basis are the barrel clasps. I have gone away from using lobsters, mostly because I like a more decorative clasp. I don't use gold - mostly because I don't like the look. That is pure personal preference though. I love silver and copper and some pewter. The wire wrappers will tell you why hammering makes it stronger - all I know is that it's true. :) I know you didn't ask, but I will say that I *love* Swarovski crystal and Czech firepolished beads. I also love Czech pressed glass flowers. And of course, lampwork.

Good luck!!

-- Kandice Seeber Air & Earth Designs

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necklaces...

ROFLAMO

-- Kandice Seeber Air & Earth Designs

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I have to say, I really love the dolphin lobsters. So pretty.

-- Kandice Seeber Air & Earth Designs

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