Bernina 200E owner's manual: Automatic Buttonhole (All Types)

Automatic Buttonhole (All Types)

Direct Entry Length

• enter the buttonhole length (buttonhole opening in mm) directly with the stitch length or stitch width knob
• suitable for all buttonhole lengths of 4mm up to the maximum length

Entering Buttonhole Length

• buttonholes can be sewn to a specific length with the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
• select type of buttonhole
• touch the Direct Entry Length function

Applications

Determining Buttonhole Length

• a special screen display appears

• enter buttonhole length with the stitch width or stitch length knob

• the programmed length is shown between the two arrows

• confirm the desired length with «OK», the screen changes automatically

• «auto» and the programmed length in mm appear on the screen

• the buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm

Corrections

• enter new length as described above

Back to Buttonhole Menu

• touch «ESC» to return to Buttonhole screen

Deleting Saved Buttonholes

• press external «clr» button or touch «recording»
• «auto» disappears and «recording» appears
• a new buttonhole length can be programmed

116 Buttonholes – Applications

Automatic Buttonhole (Standard and Stretch)

Button Measuring on Screen

The buttonhole size can be determined by holding a button on the screen. The length will be determined by the stitch width or stitch length knob.

Opening Button Measurement

• select buttonhole
• touch the «Direct Entry Length» function

Determining Button Size

• a special screen appears
  • hold the button against the bottom left corner of the screen
  • use the external stitch width or stitch length knob to adjust the colored circle to fit around the button
• the button size is shown in mm between the two arrows (e.g. 16mm)
• confirm the correct size with «OK», the screen changes automatically

Back to Buttonhole Menu

• touch «ESC» to confirm and return to Buttonhole screen, the original settings remain

Buttonhole Size

• the sewing computer calculates the buttonhole size from the button diameter
• 2mm are added automatically to take the thickness of the button into account

Corrections for Thick Buttons

• for buttons which are particularly thick, e.g. raised buttons, etc. make the colored circle 1 – 4mm larger than the button held on the screen

Test Buttonhole

• sew a test buttonhole on a scrap of the fabric and interfacing
• cut buttonhole open
• push button through hole
• correct the size if necessary

Deleting Saved Buttonholes

• press external «clr» button or touch «recording»
• «auto» disappears and «recording» appears
• a new buttonhole length can be programmed

Buttonholes – Applications 117

Buttonhole in Long Term Memory

Long term saving of buttonhole programs is only possible for buttonholes originally stitched as «auto» length buttonholes.

Saving Buttonhole (Save)

• touch the displayed buttonhole in the Stitch Altering Area (left portion of screen)
  • an additional message appears
• touch the Save function and the buttonhole is saved in the long term Memory

• for more information on programming the desired Automatic Buttonhole see pages 116-117

Recalling Saved Buttonhole

• select the desired buttonhole type
  • the buttonhole length appears on the Direct Entry Length on-screen button
• touch the Direct Entry Length function and confirm the saved length on the screen that appears with «OK»
  • «auto» and the length in mm appear on the screen

Changing Saved Buttonhole

• select the desired buttonhole type
• touch the Direct Entry Length function
  • change the length of the saved buttonhole on the screen that appears and confirm with «OK»
• save buttonhole as described above
  • programming a new length overrides the existing saved one

Deleting Saved Buttonhole

• select the desired buttonhole type
• touch the Direct Entry Length function and program a new length or touch the displayed buttonhole in the Stitch Altering Area
  • an additional message appears
• touch «Reset» and the saved buttonhole is deleted
  • a new buttonhole length can be programmed

118 Buttonholes – Applications

Automatic Buttonholes (Standard and Stretch)

Without Stitch Counter Buttonhole

Stitch: Standard and Stretch buttonholes No. 51, 52 and 53
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic Buttonhole

• the lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole
• suitable for all buttonhole lengths of 4mm up to the maximum length, which can be set with stitch width or stitch length knob

Note:
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm.

Sewing Standard and Stretch Buttonholes

Sewing First Bead

• the stitching sequence is displayed in the Stitch Altering Area
• sew the first bead forwards, stopping at the required length

Programming Buttonhole

• press the Quick Reverse button on head frame
• «auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed

Auto Buttonhole

the sewing computer sews the following automatically:

• straight stitches in reverse
• the first bartack
• the second bead forwards
• the second bartack
• the securing stitches. The sewing computer stops and automatically changes to the beginning of the buttonhole

All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the Quick Reverse button)

Buttonholes – Applications 119

Important: How to Correct Mistakes

• touch the Pattern Begin function
  • the sewing computer reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole

clr Deleting Saved Buttonholes

• press external «clr» button or touch «recording»
  • «auto» disappears and «recording» appears
  • a new buttonhole length can be programmed

TIP

Exact duplicates The «auto» function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one.

Marking Due to the «auto» function only the beginning of the buttonholes have to be marked – a real time saver.

TIP

Beautiful buttonholes Keep the speed consistent for each buttonhole (reduce speed with Motor Speed function if necessary). This results in equal density of the buttonhole beads.

120 Buttonholes – Applications

Automatic Round, Keyhole and Hand-look Buttonholes

Without Stitch Counter Buttonhole

Stitch: Round and Hand-look buttonholes No. 54 + 55 + 63 and Keyhole buttonholes No. 56–58
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic Buttonhole

• the lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole (for exact duplication) and automatically completes the buttonhole, when reaching the maximum length

Note:
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm.

Sewing Round and Keyhole Buttonholes

Sewing Straight Stitches

• the stitching sequence is displayed in the Stitch Altering Area
• sew straight stitches forwards, stopping at the desired length

Programming Buttonhole

• press the Quick Reverse button on head frame
• «auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed

Auto Buttonhole

the sewing computer sews the following automatically:

• the eye or the keyhole
• the first bead in reverse
• straight stitches forwards
• the second bead in reverse
• the bartack
• the securing stitches. The sewing computer stops and changes automatically to the beginning of the buttonhole
  All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the Quick Reverse button)

Important: How to Correct Mistakes

• touch the Pattern Begin function
• the sewing computer reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole

Buttonholes – Applications 121

Sewing Hand-look Buttonhole

• sew with consistent speed

Length of the First Bead

• sew bead to desired length
• stop sewing computer

Programming the Buttonhole

• press Quick Reverse button on head frame
  • «auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed

Auto Buttonhole the sewing computer sews the following automatically:

• the eye
• the second bead in reverse
• the top bartack, the securing stitches and stops automatically All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the Quick Reverse button)

Deleting Saved Buttonholes

• press external «clr» button or touch «recording»
  • «auto» disappears and «recording» appears
  • a new buttonhole length can be programmed

Double sewn keyhole buttonholes

• keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics and the stitches are made longer when sewing the first time (without keyhole and pointed bartack)
• after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work, simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again

Beautiful buttonholes

• for successful sewing of buttonholes always use a suitable stabilizer or interfacing
• using a gimp cord enhances the appearance of the buttonholes

122 Buttonholes – Applications

Stitch Counter Buttonholes for All Buttonhole Types

Stitch: Buttonholes (all types)
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C or Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Stitch Counter Buttonholes

• select buttonhole
• touch the Stitch Counter function, the sewing computer recognizes the Stitch Counter buttonhole program
• the length of the buttonhole is now determined by the Stitch Counter

Note:
The first bead (left) is sewn forwards, the second bead (right) is sewn in reverse.
The stitch counter buttonhole cannot be saved in the long term Memory.

Sewing Stitch Counter Buttonhole

• sew with consistent speed

Length of First Bead

• sew the first bead the desired length
• stop the sewing computer
• press Quick Reverse button on head frame

Bartack, Second Bead in Reverse

• bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse
• stop sewing computer at the first stitch
• press Quick Reverse button on head frame

Bartack, Securing Stitches

• the sewing computer sews the top bartack, securing stitches and stops automatically
• «auto» and «Stitch Counter» appear on the screen
• the buttonhole is saved
• each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically

Buttonholes – Applications 123

clr Deleting Saved Buttonholes ❖ press external «clr» button or touch «recording» • «auto» disappears and «recording» appears • a new buttonhole length can be programmed

Corrections ❖ reprogram the buttonhole if any alterations to the stitch width, length or Balance have been made

Note: Programmed buttonhole on a different fabric: • different fabrics and interfacings can affect the look of a stitch counter buttonhole • if you are using a different fabric, program the buttonhole again • it is recommended to sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use

TIP More buttonholes with presser foot No. 3C Ideal for buttonholes where the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A cannot be used.

TIP Beautiful buttonholes • always keep the speed consistent for beads of equal density • sew at a moderate speed for best results (reduce speed with Motor Speed function if necessary)

TIP Marking Due to the «auto» function only the beginning of the buttonholes have to be marked – a real time saver.

124 Buttonholes – Applications

Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes

(All Types)

Stitch: any Buttonhole Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Note: Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes. The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole.

A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved.

Opening Manual Buttonhole

• select the type of buttonhole desired
• touch «man» for the Manual Buttonhole function

Step Symbols

• the step sequence of the selected buttonhole is shown on the screen
• «1» is activated
• standard buttonhole has 6 steps
• round, keyhole and hand-look buttonholes have 4 steps
• the active step is shown in the center

TIP

Repairing buttonholes

• omit or bypass the unneeded steps
• use only the steps which are necessary to repair the worn sections

Buttonholes – Applications 125

Sewing 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes

Round and Keyhole Buttonholes

Sewing a 4 Step Buttonhole

• «1» is activated ❖ sew the first bead ❖ stop the sewing computer at the desired length ❖ touch «2» on the screen
• the sewing computer sews the eye or the keyhole ❖ touch «3»
• the sewing computer sews the second bead in reverse ❖ stop the sewing computer at the first stitch ❖ touch «4»
• the sewing computer sews the top bartack and secures stitches automatically
• the length of the beads is determined manually when sewing
• bartack, eye and securing stitches are preprogrammed

Note: The graphic on the screen is the same for the round and keyhole buttonholes.

Leave Program

❖ touch «ESC»

• screen reverts to the original Buttonhole screen

Sewing a 6 Step Buttonhole

• «1» is activated ❖ sew first bead ❖ stop sewing computer at the desired bead length

❖ touch «2»

• the sewing computer sews straight stitches in reverse ❖ stop sewing computer at the first stitch of the first bead ❖ touch «3»
• the sewing computer sews the top bartack and stops automatically ❖ touch «4»
• the sewing computer sews the second bead ❖ stop sewing computer ❖ touch «5»
• the sewing computer sews the bottom bead and stops automatically ❖ touch «6»
• the sewing computer secures the stitches and stops automatically ❖ the bead length is determined by the user
• the bartack and the securing stitches are preprogrammed

Note : 6 bartack stitches are sewn and the sewing computer stops automatically. If more than 6 bartack stitches are to be sewn, simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again.

126 Buttonholes – Applications

Straight Stitch Buttonhole

Stitch: Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C or Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic Program With Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A

The lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole (so it can be duplicated exactly).

Note:

Straight stitched buttonholes are particularly useful for reinforcing buttonholes on all soft and loosely woven fabrics such as wool, or for buttonholes which are subject to extreme wear. They are also useful for reinforcing buttonhole openings in leather, vinyl or felt.

Straight Stitch

• select stitch No. 59 on the screen

Altering the Distance

• alter the stitch width if the distance between the rows of stitching is too wide or too narrow

Buttonholes – Applications 127

Sewing Straight Stitch Buttonhole

Sewing the Automatic Buttonhole Program

• sew the first row of straight stitches forwards until the desired length is reached
• press the Quick Reverse button
• «auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear which means the length is programmed
• the sewing computer completes the buttonhole program automatically
• all subsequent buttonholes will be stitched to the same length (without pressing the Quick Reverse button)
• the distance between the stitched rows can be adjusted with the stitch width

Sewing With Foot No. 3C (Stitch Counter)

• select the Stitch Counter function for stitch counter buttonholes
• Buttonhole foot No. 3C will register the number of stitches in the buttonhole

Sewing Stitch Counter Straight Stitch Buttonhole

• sew the first bead, stop stitching at the desired length
• press the Quick Reverse button on head frame
• sew the end of the buttonhole and then the second bead in reverse
• stop sewing computer at the first stitch
• press the Quick Reverse button on head frame
• the sewing computer sews the horizontal bar and securing stitches and stops automatically
• «auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear on the screen
• each subsequent stitched buttonhole will be sewn to the same length as the programmed buttonhole

TIP Straight stitched buttonholes are also useful for reinforcing buttonhole openings in leather, synthetic leather, vinyl or felt.

128 Buttonholes – Applications

Bound Buttonhole

Stitch: Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59 Needle: 80 – 100 H Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C or Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A For topstitching: Straight stitch foot with sliding sole No. 53 (optional accessory)

Suitable Material for Bound Buttonholes

• synthetic leather
• leather
• Alcantara
• plastic coated fabrics

Sewing Bound Buttonhole

1. Determining Buttonhole Size

• cut a rectangular piece of fabric 1 1/4" (3cm) longer and 1 1/2" (4cm) wider than the buttonhole. This will create the welts.
• place it on the leather (right sides together) and allow for facing if necessary
• sew Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59 (stitch width being 9mm)

2. Cutting Buttonhole Open

• cut buttonhole open in the center with pointed scissors about 5mm away from the end
• at the corners cut diagonally to the seam – make sure not to cut into the seam!

3. Turning Buttonhole Through

• turn the buttonhole through to the wrong side
• press edges outwards

TIP Press synthetic leather or leather carefully on medium heat and with a cloth.

Buttonholes – Applications 129

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4. Pressing Welts ❖ press welts on the wrong side of the fabric or baste, so that two equally big strips are formed on the right side

5. Edgestitching ❖ edgestitch the buttonhole (see picture) ❖ place facing on the wrong side

6. Topstitching Buttonhole ❖ topstitch buttonhole with the Straight stitch foot with sliding sole No. 53 on the right side (including facing)

7. Trimming Leather ❖ cut leather of facing on the wrong side inside the sewn rectangle and trim away slightly

TIP

Bound buttonhole in other materials ❖ sew buttonhole as described under 1. – 7. ❖ at the end, finish edges by hand and secure

130 Buttonholes – Applications

Decorative Buttonholes

Stitch: Buttonholes (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester or embroidery threads Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C (for topstitching) Buttonhole foot No. 3A or No. 3C

Decorative Buttonholes

• suitable for all buttonholes
• for decorating buttonholes as a creative element

Sewing

Topstitched Lizard

❖ copy sketched lizard onto fabric or draw with a fine pencil, tailor’s chalk or an air or water soluble marker (test first on fabric remnant) ❖ topstitch lizard along the drawn outlines and create the inner part with a zig-zag stitch (see picture) ❖ sew buttonhole either with foot No. 3A or 3C

Buttonhole With Decorative Stitches

❖ sew buttonhole either with Buttonhole foot No. 3A or 3C ❖ embellish buttonhole with Decorative stitch No. 107 and placket with Decorative stitch No. 708

TIP

Buttonhole with embroidery

Create buttonhole and combine with your personal embroidery from the artista PC software.

Buttonholes – Applications 131

Button Sew-on Program

Stitch: Button sew-on program No. 60 Stitch width: depends on the distance between the holes Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Button sew-on foot No. 18

Note: Buttons with 2 and 4 holes can be attached with presser foot No. 18. The shank (thread length between button and fabric) can be made shorter or longer as desired. Buttons sewn on for decorative purposes only are stitched without a thread shank.

Button Sew-on Program

• select stitch No. 60 on the screen

Sewing 2 Hole Button

• select Button sew-on program No. 60 on the screen
• check distance between holes with the handwheel and adjust stitch width if necessary
• hold the threads when starting to sew
• sew on button
• the sewing computer stops automatically when program is completed and is immediately ready for the next button

Sewing 4 Hole Button

• sew the front holes first
• carefully move the button forward
• sew the back holes with the same program

Beginning and Ending Threads

• the threads are secured and can be trimmed

For Secure Results

• pull both bobbin threads until the ends of the upper thread are visible on the wrong side (knot if required)
• trim threads

TIPS

Sewing on buttons

A real time saver, especially when several of the same type buttons must be sewn on, e.g. blouses, bedding, etc.

For work which is subject to heavy wear or washing, sew Button sew-on program twice.

132 Buttonholes – Applications

Zig-zag or Straight Stitch Eyelets

Stitch: Narrow zig-zag eyelet No. 61 or Straight stitch eyelet No. 62
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Note:
Eyelets are ideal openings for cords and narrow ribbons, attractive decorative elements, ideal for children’s clothing, and crafts. They cannot be programmed in stitch combinations.

Eyelet Programs

• select desired eyelet
  No. 61 = zig-zag eyelet
  No. 62 = straight stitch eyelet

Sewing Eyelets

• position fabric under the presser foot and sew
• the sewing computer stops automatically when finished and is immediately ready for the next eyelet
• sew twice for a more filled in satin stitch eyelet

Punching Eyelets

• use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet

TIP
Decorative eyelets
Ideal for eyes on soft toys, dolls or use decorative thread to introduce an attractive element.

Buttonholes – Applications 133

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