Bernina 200E owner's manual: Choosing an Embroidery Motif

Starting Embroidery With Quick Reverse Button on Head Frame

• touch Quick Reverse button on head frame to start embroidery
• to enter the Embroidery menu directly from the Design menu touch the Quick Reverse button on head frame

Automatic Thread Cutter

• when a color finished embroidering, upper and lower threads areautomatically cut

External Functions

Stitch Width / Stitch Length Knobs

• with different functions such as Thread Tension, Alter Size, Rotate Motif, etc. the external knobs are used to work on the motifs
• an Information Area appears if the knobs can be operated

Embroidery Mode/ Sewing Mode Button

• changing from Embroidery Mode to Sewing Mode and vice versa

The Embroidery Computer – External Functions 205

206

In General 208 Embroidery Threads 210 Embroidery Stabilizers 211 Hooping the Fabric 213

Important Embroidery Information

Choosing an Embroidery Motif

• simple motifs with a low stitch count are suitable for embroidery on fine fabric
• large-scale, densely embroidered motifs (e.g. with multiple color and embroidery direction changes) are suitable for medium- and heavyweight fabrics

Embroidery Test

• always stitch an embroidery test on a sample fabric. Adjust color, thread quality, needle, stitch density, tension, etc. to suit the motif if necessary
• for the test use the same fabric and stabilizer that you will use on the project

Scaling/Sizing Motifs

• motifs can be scaled/sized with artista software either on the embroidery computer or on the PC
• to get good results, the motifs should be scaled within the limits of 75% to 150%

In General

Different Stitch Types

Underlay Stitches

Underlay stitches are the foundation of a motif and are used to stabilize the base fabric and hold it in shape. They also prevent the covering stitches of the motif from sinking into the knit or the nap of the fabric. They are accomplished automatically in the built-in designs for artista 200 and in artista Design cards.

Fill Stitches

Satin Stitch

• this stitch sews a dense zig-zag so the thread covers the motif
• satin stitches are suitable for filling small and narrow areas. They are not suitable for filling large areas, as long stitches are too loose and do not cover the fabric properly. In addition there is the danger that with too long stitches the threads could catch on something which would damage the embroidery

Step Stitch

• a fill stitch with stitches of specified length sewn in rows used primarily to fill large areas quickly

208 Important Embroidery Information – In General

Fancy-Fill Stitches

• to give areas a special effect
• stitches that create a motif with an area to be filled

Outline Stitches

• usually straight or satin stitches
• used to define a specific area or areas
• examples are: straight stitch, double run, triple run, satin

Jump Stitches

• long stitches that skip over fabric after one part of the motif finishes and the next begins
• before and after the jump stitch securing stitches are sewn
• jump stitches are trimmed before the next color starts to embroider

Important Embroidery Information – In General 209

Embroidery Threads

One of the most important elements in successful embroidery is the quality of the thread. We strongly recommend that you purchase thread from a reputable BERNINA dealer in order to avoid irregularities, thread breakage, etc. which so often occur with poor quality threads.

Embroidery is particularly effective if you use glossy rayon or polyester embroidery threads as upper threads. They are available in a wide range of colors for beautiful embroidery.

Polyester Threads

Polyester with a brilliant sheen is a hard wearing colorfast thread and has a high tensile strength. It is suitable for all types of embroidery, especially children's clothing and items which will be washed often or subject to much wear and tear.

Rayon Threads

Rayon is a soft viscose fiber with a brilliant sheen and suitable for fine, delicate embroidery, or items that will not receive excessive wear and tear.

TIP When sewing with metallic threads, we recommend the use of the vertical spool pin and the supplementary thread guide (optional accessory).

Metallic Wrapped Polyester Thread

Metallic thread is a light- to mediumweight thread suitable for special effects in embroidery. Preferably use with a Metafil 130/705 H-MET needle or Organ needle of varying sizes.

• for more information on Needles see pages 17-19

Embroidery Needle

• correct size thread must correspond with correct size needle
• replace needle regularly

Bobbin Threads

Bobbin-Fil (Special Bobbin Thread)

Bobbin-Fil is an especially soft and light polyester thread suitable for bobbin thread. This special bobbin thread ensures a steady thread tension and an optimal intertwining of the upper and bobbin thread.

Darning and Embroidery Thread

Fine mercerized cotton thread suitable for embroidery (Mettler 60 weight suggested), which is embroidered on cotton fabric.

TIP Use white bobbin thread or match color with fabric.

210 Important Embroidery Information – Embroidery Threads

Tear-away Stabilizers

• similar to interfacing; tears like paper
• one or more layers can be used
• comes in different weights ❖ for more stability, apply to the wrong side of the fabric with temporary spray adhesive before hooping ❖ carefully tear away exessive stabilizer from the back of the embroidery after stitching
• stabilizer will remain under larger embroidered areas

Application:

• for woven fabrics

Cut-away Stabilizers

• one or more layers can be used
• comes in light- and heavyweight ❖ for more stability, apply to the wrong side of the fabric with temporary spray adhesive before hooping ❖ carefully cut away from the back of the embroidery after stitching
• stabilizer will remain under larger embroidered areas

Application:

• for most fabrics, especially suited for knits

Embroidery Stabilizers

Iron-on Interfacing ❖ must be preshrunk by soaking in warm water

• this is pressed (fused) to the wrong side of the fabric
• iron-on interfacings are available in a variety of weights and should be selected to suit the fabric being used
• removable iron-on interfacing is also available

Application:

• to provide body and shape for fabrics onto which motifs will be placed
• use in conjunction with appropriate stabilizer

Paper Backed Adhesive Stabilizer ❖ place stabilizer in hoop, paper side up ❖ use a pointed object (e.g. scissors) to score the paper and remove it to reveal the self-adhesive surface ❖ position the piece of fabric to be embroidered on the stabilizer

Application:

• intended for delicate fabrics such as jersey or silk, or hard to hoop fabrics such as velvets

Note: When using paper backed adhesive stabilizer make sure that there is no adhesive residue on needle, stitch plate and hook area.

Important Embroidery Information – Embroidery Stabilizers 211

Water Soluble Stabilizer for Fabric With a Pile and Lace Embroidery

• soluble stabilizer looks like plastic wrap
• dissolve stabilizer in warm water when embroidery is complete
• soluble stabilizers are ideal protection for fabrics with a thick or looped pile such as toweling
• place on top of toweling and high nap fabrics backed by appropriate stabilizer for fabric and motif
• use spray adhesive to fix stabilizer if necessary
• for fabric with a pile, reinforce with additional, suitable stabilizer on the wrong side if necessary
• for lace embroidery place one or two layers of water soluble stabilizer in hoop (as the motif is not embroidered on any fabric, only the thread embroidered motif is left)
• after dissolving lay the motif down flat and leave to dry
• soluble stabilizer can also be removed by gently tearing it away when used as a topping on non-washable fabrics like velvet

Application:

• ideal for toweling, velvet, bouclé knits, etc.
• ideal for fine, sheer fabrics such as organdy, batiste, etc.
• recommended for use as a stabilizer with low stitch count motifs
• use heavier water soluble stabilizer to stitch lace motifs

Spray Starch for Additional Stiffening

• spray starch is ideal for stiffening fine, soft or loosely woven fabrics
• spray the area to be embroidered, leave to dry or press gently with a warm iron
• always use an additional stabilizer such as water soluble stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric

Application:

• ideal for fine, loosely woven fabrics, e.g. batiste, fine linen, etc.

212 Important Embroidery Information – Embroidery Stabilizers

Centering

• determine the center of the fabric to be embroidered
• mark with a fabric marker or chalk

Using the Embroidery Hoop

• loosen the screw(s)
• remove the inner hoop
• the arrows on both hoops should match
• the arrows on the medium, large and Mega hoops are at the center front and on the right hand side of the small hoop

Hooping the Fabric

Embroidery Template

• there is a template for each embroidery hoop, the small hoop has two
• the embroidery surface is marked in 3/8" (1 cm) squares
• the center and corners are marked with holes for transferring marks to fabric
• place the template in the inner hoop so that the word BERNINA is at the front (by the arrows) and can be read
• the template will engage automatically in the inner hoop
• there are finger holes for removing the template from the small and medium hoops, and special attachment clips for the large and Mega hoop templates

Important Embroidery Information – Hooping the Fabric 213

Hooping the Fabric ❖ place fabric on top of the outer hoop ❖ place the marked center point in the center of the template on inner hoop • match the arrows of inner and outer hoops ❖ place inner hoop on top of fabric and outer hoop and press into place, loosening screws to accommodate fabric. Tighten screws ❖ remove template

214 Important Embroidery Information – Embroidery Stabilizers

Embroidery

Motifs 216

• Embroidering • Positioning
• Altering: mirroring, size
• Combining

Alphabets – Lettering 226

• In general • Combining lettering

Adjustments 232

• Motif colors
• Adjusting motifs

Applications 235

• Free arm embroidery • Lace
• Borders • Shadow Embroidery

In General

All motifs can be either embroidered directly or can be combined with the different functions offered by the embroidery computer.

Apart from combining designs, it is also possible to rotate the motifs, to alter the stitch density, to allocate another thread color, etc.

Motifs

Basic Information on Embroidering Motifs With no Alterations

Motif Information

Valuable information about the desired motif is available in the Motif Selection menu:

❖ touch the function «?» (Help) and select desired motif

• in the opened special screen «Design Information», the following information on the selected motif is available:

• Name
• Width
• Height
• Embroidery Time
• No. Stitches
• No. Colors

touch «Open»

• the motif appears in the Design Menu Edit 1

Select Hoop

The most appropriate (smallest possible) hoop is automatically chosen for the selected embroidery motif:

• the motif is shown on the display in the center of the most appropriate hoop

• «Select Hoop» also shows the most appropriate hoop

View Motif in Detail (Zoom) A detailed viewing of the motif is possible with the Zoom function:

• touch symbol once
  • displays the motif enlarged by one step (zoomed in)
• touch symbol a second time
  • displays the motif enlarged by a further step, in addition the function «Scroll Zoomed Motif» appears

• touch symbol «Scroll Zoomed Motif»
  • the Information Areas for operating the stitch width and length knob appear
• detailed viewing of the individual parts: scroll zoomed motifs horizontally or vertically by turning the appropriate knob
  • stitch width scrolls right/left
  • stitch length scrolls up/down
• by touching symbol a third time, reverts motif back to original size

Embroidering Motif To change to the Embroidery menu (Ready) touch «OK» in Design Menu Edit 1 or press the external Quick Reverse button on head frame

• embroider motif

• for more information on Starting to Embroider see pages 196-197

TIP

Hoop Relocater

• this function makes threading easier when the needle is very close to the left edge of the hoop
• touch symbol and the hoop will move horizontally to the center, which makes threading easier

Embroidery - Motifs 217

Positioning Motif

Positioning Motif in Desired Location

By moving or rotating the motif can be moved to another position within the hoop.

Preparation

• select desired motif from the Selection menu
• the motif appears in the Design Menu Edit 1
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change to Design Menu Edit 2

Move Motif

Move motif as desired:

• touch symbol
• the Information Areas for operating the stitch width and length knob appear
• to move the motif horizontally turn the stitch width knob
• turn stitch width knob to right to move motif to right
• turn stitch width knob to left to move motif to left
• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in 1/10 mm
• to move the motif vertically turn the stitch length knob
• turn stitch length knob clockwise (down) to move motif downwards
• turn stitch length knob counter clockwise (up) to move motif up
• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in 1/10 mm
• to move the motif diagonally turn the stitch width and length knob
• the motif is moved diagonally when the same number appears in both Information Areas
• to move the motif back to the middle touch the Information Areas or touch «Move Motif» again

Note: If the knobs are turned slowly the motif can be moved step by step (step length = 1/10mm).

Rotate Motif

Rotate motif as desired:

• touch symbol
• the Information Area for operating the stitch width knob appears
• to rotate the motif clockwise turn stitch width knob clockwise
• in the Information Area the position in shown in degrees (°)
• to rotate the motif counter clockwise turn the stitch width knob counter clockwise
• in the Information Area the position in shown in degrees (°)
• to reactivate the default setting (0°/360°) touch the purple knob icon
• touch «rotate motif» several times and the motif is rotated clockwise in 90° steps (0°/90°/180°/270°/360°)

Note: If the knobs are turned slowly the motif can be moved in 1° steps.

218 Embroidery - Motifs

Checking the Motif Position

With the functions «Check» and «Motif Center» the motif position can be checked before embroidering.

Check

The function «Check» reads the attached hoop size and stitching area:

• touch symbol
• the hoop size is read causing the hoop to move
• «Check» then confirms placement by moving hoop to reflect stitching area of selected motif
• «Check» moves hoop 4 steps so that stitching area of selected motif can be confirmed
  • hoop moves to lower left corner
  • hoop moves to lower right corner
  • hoop moves to upper right corner
  • hoop moves to upper left corner
• confirm each position by touching «OK»
• if no hoop or a too small hoop was attached, an error message will appear

Checking Motif Center

• touch symbol
• the exact center of the motif is indicated on the display
• the hoop will be moved until the needle is in the center of the motif
• touch symbol again and on the display the first stitch of the motif will be marked once more

Altering Motifs

Mirroring Motifs

Each motif can be mirrored left/right or up/down.

Preparation

• select desired motif from the Selection menu
• motif appears in Design Menu Edit 1
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change to Design Menu Edit 2

Mirroring Motifs Horizontally (left/right)

• touch symbol «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)»
• the motif will be mirrored horizontally

Mirroring Motifs Vertically (up/down)

• touch symbol «Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)»
• the motif will be mirrored vertically

Mirroring Motifs Horizontally and Vertically

• touch symbols «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)» and «Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)»
• the motif will be mirrored horizontally and vertically

Calculating New Embroidery Data

After changing from Design Menu Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready)

• touch Recalculation to have best Quality - may be time consuming!
• touch Resizing for fastest calculation. Quality may be not the best (only suitable for motifs which were altered between 90% and 120%).
• the spinning thread spool indicates that an altered motif is being recalculated
• each alteration made will appear in the Embroidery menu (Ready)

Note: No operations are possible during the calculation process!

Rotating mirrored motifs

A wonderful variety of combinations are possible together with the function «Rotate Motif».

Combining designs

If mirrored and unmirrored designs are combined, particularly attractive effects and borders can be designed.

• for more information on Combining Motifs see pages 223-225

220 Embroidery - Motifs

Altering Motif Size

Each motif can be proportionally enlarged or reduced as well as rescaled horizontally or vertically.

Preparation

• select desired motif from the Selection menu
  • the motif appears in Design Menu Edit 1
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change to Design Menu Edit 2

Note: To get good results, the motifs should be scaled within the limits of 75% to 150%.

Enlarging or Reducing Motif Proportionally

Altering the motif as desired:

• touch symbol
  • the Information Area for operating the stitch width knob appears
• to enlarge the motif turn stitch width knob clockwise
• to reduce the motif turn stitch width knob counter clockwise
• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in percent (%)
• to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the Information Area

Note: If the knobs are turned slowly the motif size can be altered in 1% steps.

Embroidery - Motifs 221

Adjust the Motif Height or Width

Motifs can be widened or reduced horizontally or lengthened and reduced vertically as desired:

• touch symbol
  • the Information Areas for operating the stitch width and length knob appear
• to adjust the width (widen or reduce the motif horizontally) turn stitch width knob clockwise to widen or counter clockwise to reduce motif
• in the Information Area the adjustment is displayed in percent (%)
• to adjust the height (lengthen or reduce the motif vertically) turn stitch length knob clockwise to enlarge or counter clockwise to reduce motif

Note: If the knobs are turned slowly the motif size can be altered in 1% steps.

• in the Information Area the adjustment is displayed in percent (%)
• to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the Information Area

Display of the Motif Size

The motif width and height is displayed in millimeters (mm) on screen.

Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted Motif Size

The most appropriate hoop should be chosen for the motif size:

• touch «Select Hoop»
  • a special screen appears with possible choices of hoops
  • by selecting a hoop (Small, Middle, Large Oval or Mega) the motif is shown in the appropriate hoop after the special screen closes

Calculating New Embroidery Data

After changing from Design Menu Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready) the new embroidery data is recalculated according to the changes made.

• for more information on Calculating New Embroidery Data see page 220

222 Embroidery - Motifs

Combining Motifs

Motifs can be combined as desired with the embroidery computer to create completely new designs. A combination can consist of several identical motifs or of different ones. It is also possible to combine motifs with lettering.

Application

• combining motif variations
• creating new designs
• embroidering borders
• creating logos, crests, badges, labels, etc.

Preparation

• select desired motif from the Selection menu
• the motif appears in the Design Menu Edit 1

Creating Combinations

Adding Another Motif

With the function «Add Motif» another motif or letter from the Selection menu is added to the existing one:

• touch «Add Motif»
  • Selection menu appears
• select motif or letter of your choice from the Selection menu
  • the selected motif is shown in the Design Menu Edit 1 slightly offset above the existing motif

• for more information on Lettering see pages 226-231

Duplicating Existing Motif

The duplicating function simplifies combining different variations of the same motif:

• touch «Duplicate»
  • the active motif will be duplicated automatically and displayed slightly offset above the other motif

Embroidery - Motifs 223

Creating Motif Combination

With functions such as «Move Motif», «Rotate Motif» «Mirror Image», etc. the motif combination can be created as desired.

Selecting Motif Within the Motif Combination

• touch the symbol «Retrieve» once or more
• switches between different motifs when combining designs
• active motif is shown in color
• touch «Retrieve» until the desired motif is activated

Note: Depending on how many times the symbol was touched, one motif or the complete motif combination is active.

Creating / Altering Motif Combination

• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change to Design Menu Edit 2 and create combination by altering the active motif (= in color):
• with «Move Motif» move the motif to the desired position
• in addition other alterations are possible: scaling, rotating, mirroring, etc.

for more information on different Functions see pages 198-205

• the screen displays all changes directly
• to alter another motif of the motif combination, activate the desired motif with «Retrieve»
• alter selected motif as desired

Note: With the function «Move Motif» (touch twice) a duplicated motif can be centered.

Note: If the indicated hoop offers too little space, select a larger one with the function «Select Hoop».

L.Oval 145x 255

224 Embroidery - Motifs

Corrections and Alterations in the Motif Combination

Inserting New Motif

• to add another motif or duplicate an existing motif see «Creating Combinations»

Altering Motif

• touch the symbol «Retrieve» in the Design Menu Edit 1 or Edit 2 once or more until the desired motif is activated (in color)
• alter the activated motif in Design Menu Edit 2 as desired

Deleting Motifs

• touch the symbol «Retrieve» in the Design Menu Edit 1 or Edit 2 once or more until the desired motif is activated (in color)
• touch «Delete» in Design Menu Edit 1 and the activated motif will be automatically deleted

Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted Motif Size

The best embroidery results are achieved by selecting the most appropriate hoop for the motif size.

• for more information on Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop see pages 196/199

Calculating New Embroidery Data

After changing from Design Menu Edit 1 or Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready) the new embroidery data is recalculated according to the changes made.

• for more information on Calculating New Embroidery Data see page 220

• for more information on Saving Motifs see pages 240-242

Embroidery - Motifs 225

Letters can be combined with other letters or motifs and embroidered with the embroidery computer. The artista 200 embroidery computer's Design Menu Edit 2 offers a large variety of alteration possibilities:

Application

• Names, monograms and addresses
• words and text
• creating logos, crests, badges, labels, etc.

• labeling quilts (quilt labels)

Apart from altering the letter size, the baseline type amongst other things, can be altered. For instance arched letters can be made from horizontally arranged letters.

Combining Letters

• "select desired alphabet from the Selection menu

• a special screen with a keyboard appears

• « the «ABC» on-screen button (upper case) is automatically active
• « in the special screen there are different functions which take you to the appropriate lettering:
• « the «ABC» on-screen button changes to upper case
• « the «abc/123» on-screen button changes to lower case and numbers
• « the «@#» and «a x» on-screen button activates special characters

• select desired letters
• spaces can be added by touching the blank space bar

• « the letters appear in the Text bar

Correcting Letters

• to delete individual letters touch the arrow on the right of the Text bar

• « letters are deleted from right to left

• to delete letters touch the Text bar

• « letters will be completely deleted (Text bar is empty)

Confirming Letters

• "* confirm combined letters with «OK» and the letters appear in the Design Menu Edit 1

Embroidering Letters With or Without Alterations

The combined letters are ready to be embroidered or can be altered with the different functions as desired.

ed lettering does not oop, rotate lettering by rge number of letters can fit into the lengthwise stitch area of the hoop).

Should this not be of any help then change size of lettering or reduce number.

Altering Lettering

The letters are altered in the Design Menu Edit 2:

Rescaling the Letters Height or Width

• touch symbol and the Information Areas for operating the stitch width and length knob appear
• to adjust the motif horizontally turn stitch width knob
• to adjust the motif vertically turn stitch length knob
• in the Information Area the adjustment is displayed in percent
• to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the Information Area

ABCD ABCD ABCD ABCD

Mirroring Lettering

• touch symbol «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)» and the motif will be mirrored horizontally
• touch symbol «Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)» and the motif will be mirrored vertically

ABCD ABCD ABCD

Enlarging or Reducing Lettering Proportionally

• touch symbol and the Information Area for operating the stitch width knob appears
• to enlarge the motif turn stitch width knob clockwise
• to reduce the motif turn stitch width knob counter clockwise
• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in percent
• to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the Information Area

ABCD ABCD

Embroidery - Alphabets, Lettering 227

Creating Arched Lettering ❖ touch symbol and a special screen appears ❖ select desired arched lettering style:

• lettering below the curved baseline (lettering counter clockwise)
• lettering above the curved baseline (lettering clockwise)
• three forms each of arched lettering are possible (the larger the green circle the less the arch) ❖ confirm with «OK»
• the special screen closes and the lettering is displayed, formed in the selected arch

Lettering With Vertical or Horizontal Baseline ❖ touch symbol and a special screen appears ❖ select vertical or horizontal baseline ❖ confirm with «OK»

• the special screen closes and the lettering is displayed, formed in the selected baseline

Moving Letters

• after altering the baseline it is possible that the programmed text is no longer in the center of the hoop ❖ touch symbol twice to move text to the center of the hoop

Altering Lettering Size With Direct Input ❖ touch the Letter Manipulation button ❖ height can be changed in mm steps for selected lettering by using arrows at right end of Height box

• up arrow increases lettering size
• down arrow decreases lettering size

Changing Letter Spacing ❖ use up or down arrows to change spaces in mm steps between letters

Changing Fonts ❖ touch the Letter Manipulation button ❖ new font can be selected for entered text ❖ use up or down arrows at right end of Font bar to change font style

228 Embroidery - Alphabets, Lettering