Bernina 200E owner's manual: Quilt Stitches

Quilt Stitches

Stitch Summary 136

Important Information on Different Techniques 137

Quilters Securing Program 138

• Stitch No. 324

Quilting Straight Stitch 139

• Stitch No. 325

Piecing Stitch/Straight Stitch 140

• Straight stitch No. 326

Hand-look Quilt Stitch 141

• Stitches No. 328, 346–350

Decorative Quilt Stitches 142

• Stitches No. 327, 332–345, 351

Satin Stitch 143

• Stitch No. 354

Blanket Stitches 145

• Stitches No. 329, 330, 352, 353

Turned-edge Appliqués 146

• Blindstitch No. 331

Freehand Quilting 148

• Stitch No. 325

Quilt Stitches

Summary

Quilt Stitches

Different stitches can be selected which can be used especially for quilting, patchwork or for appliqué:

No. 324 Quilters securing program No. 325 Quilting straight stitch No. 326 Piecing stitch / Straight stitch No. 327 Stippling stitch No. 328 Hand-look quilt stitch No. 329 Blanket stitch No. 330 Double blanket stitch No. 331 Blindstitch No. 332 Feather stitch No. 333 - 338 Feather stitch variations No. 339 - 345, 351 Decorative quilt stitches No. 346 - 350 Quilt stitch / Hand-look quilt stitch variations No. 352 Blanket stitch (dual) No. 353 Double blanket stitch (dual) No. 354 Satin stitch

• touch the stitch of your choice
• the stitch is activated
• all information on-screen is visible
• stitch widths/stitch lengths can be altered and customized

136 Quilt Stitches – Summary

Important Information on Different Techniques

Patchwork, Appliqué and Quilting

Patchwork

• with this technique fabric of different colors, forms and patterns are sewn together to make blankets, wall hangings and garments
• for the design of patchwork basic geometric forms are most suitable, e.g. different rectangular and triangular forms as well as squares

Stitch for patchwork:

• No. 326 Piecing stitch / Straight stitch

Appliqué

• to appliqué is to apply patches of fabric by sewing or embroidering on the base fabric
• apart from creative and artistic designing the appliqué technique also makes it possible to cover damaged areas in a clever way

Following stitches can be used:

• No. 354 Satin stitch
• No. 329, 330, 352, 353 Blanket stitches
• No. 331 Blindstitch

Quilting

Quilts consist of three layers:

• decorative top layer of fabric (usually patchwork)
• middle layer - batting
• bottom layer in plain fabric used as lining

After these three layers, which result in a «quilt sandwich», have been pinned and basted they are sewn together with different stitches. This is called quilting.

Following stitches are suitable for quilting:

• Nr. 324 Quilters securing program
• Nr. 325 Quilting straight stitch
• Nr. 328, 346–350 Hand-look quilt stitches
• Nr. 327, 331–345, 351 Decorative quilt stitches

Quilt Stitches – Summary 137

Quilters Securing Program

Stitch: Quilters securing program No. 324
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative or monofilament
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)

Applications

Quilters Securing Program

• suitable for all fabrics and quilting
• secures beginning and end of seam

Preparation

• prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing the batting between the lining and the top layer
• pin and base the «quilt sandwich»

Beginning the Seam

• the sewing computer automatically secures at the beginning (six small stitches forwards)
• continue sewing until shortly before the end

Ending the Seam

• press and release the Quick Reverse button on head frame. The sewing computer secures automatically (six small stitches forwards) and stops automatically.

Note:
For work which is subject to heavy wear or washing, use Securing stitch No. 5.

TIP

Perfect stitch formation
When using thick fabric lengthen the stitch length.

TIP

Needle stop down
A great help when quilting.

138 Quilt Stitches – Applications

Quilting Straight Stitch

Stitch: Quilting straight stitch No. 325
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative or monofilament
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)

Quilting Straight Stitch

• this quilt stitch is a straight stitch with a longer basic setting for machine quilting
• suitable for all fabrics and quilting

Preparation

• prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing the batting between the lining and the top layer
• pin and base the «quilt sandwich»

Outline Quilting (Echo Quilting)

• allows you to add decorative elements
• echo quilt in regular distances from the patchwork seams or around the form of the applied motif

Pattern Quilting

• allows you to add decorative elements
• allows you to sew as many lines and forms on the work as desired

Shadow Quilting

• suitable for work where no additional effect is desired apart from the effect of the fabric strips sewn together
• sew with the quilt stitch directly on the seam lines of the work

TIPS

Perfect stitch formation

When using thick fabric lengthen the stitch length.

Invisible quilt effect

If a monofilament thread is used the quilted seam looks invisible.

Needle stop down

A great help when quilting.

Quilt Stitches – Applications 139

Piecing Stitch / Straight Stitch

Stitch: Piecing stitch / Straight stitch No. 326
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Patchwork foot No. 37 (optional accessory)

Piecing Stitch / Straight Stitch

• this piecing stitch is a short straight stitch
• suitable for piecing all patchwork

Sewing

• pin fabric strips and sew them together

Sewing With Stitch Counter Function

For patchwork which consists of several strips of the same size, it helps to use the Stitch Counter function as well.

• touch symbol, the Stitch Counter function is activated
• sew until the desired length is reached
• press external Quick Reverse button
• the number of sewn stitches is programmed (temporarily)
• further fabric patches can be sewn together with the same programmed length (the sewing computer automatically stops at the end)

140 Quilt Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Hand-look Quilt Stitch

Stitch: Hand-look quilt stitches No. 328, 346–350
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Needle thread: monofilament
Bobbin thread: 50 or 30 weight cotton
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)

Hand-look Quilt Stitch

• suitable for all fabrics and work which should look «hand sewn»

Sewing a Test

• the bobbin thread has to be brought up; one stitch is visible (bobbin thread) and one stitch is invisible (monofilament thread), which results in the hand-look effect

Upper Thread Tension

• the upper thread tension is automatically set
• increase upper thread tension to suit fabric if necessary

Balance

• adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary

Sewing

• the hand-look quilt stitch can be sewn in any needle position

TIP

Perfect corners

• activate Pattern End and Needle Stop (the sewing computer automatically stops with the needle down) and pivot the work
• when pivoting make sure that the needle ends in a down position, pivot and begin stitching

TIP

Monofilament thread breaks

If the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly.

Quilt Stitches – Applications 141

Decorative Quilt Stitches

Stitch: Decorative quilt stitches No. 327, 332–345, 351
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open embroidery foot No. 20C

Decorative Quilt Stitches

• suitable for all fabrics and quilting
• especially applicable for crazy quilting

Preparation

• prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing the batting between the lining and the top layer
• pin and base the «quilt sandwich»

Sewing

• select quilt stitches and sew
• when applying crazy quilting the decorative quilt stitches are sewn over the patches as required
• all quilt stitches can be combined in the Combi Mode

TIP

Perfect stitch formation

• when using thick fabric lengthen the stitch length
• adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary

TIP

Perfect corners

Activate Pattern End and Needle Stop (the sewing computer automatically stops with the needle down) and pivot the work.

TIP

Stippling stitch No. 327

The stippling stitch can be enlarged by using the Sideways motion stitch No. 515 or stitch No. 516.

142 Quilt Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Satin Stitch

Stitch: Satin Stitch No. 354
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, polyester, decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Appliqué foot No. 23 (optional accessory), Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open embroidery foot No. 20C

Satin Stitch

• applying decorative appliqués
• suitable for many fabrics

Note:
Instead of double-sided adhesive stabilizer use fabric spray adhesive.

Preparation of Appliqué

• double-sided adhesive stabilizer helps to fix the motif on the base fabric and prevents it from creasing when sewing
• design the motif in original size
• copy a mirror image of the motif onto the paper side of the stabilizer and cut out roughly
• press the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the appliqué fabric (coated side lies on the fabric, see picture 1)

• cut exactly along the motif (see picture 2)
• tear off paper side (see picture 2)

• place motif on base fabric (see picture 3)
• if necessary place additional stabilizer under the base fabric (e.g. embroidery stabilizer) to give fabric extra stability

Sewing Appliqué

• secure the motif by oversewing the edge of the appliqué
• the stitch goes slightly over the edge of the motif into the base fabric on the right swing of the needle (if required alter the needle position accordingly)

Quilt Stitches – Applications 143

Sewing Rectangular Corners (90°)

• sew 3-4 stitches over the outer fabric edge
• stitch over edge of the motif, needle position down and turn sewing
• continue sewing, the corner will be oversewn twice

Sewing Obtuse Inside Corners (100°)

• sew until the needle is down in the middle of the angle inside the motif
• sew the corner in form of sun rays, i.e. needle down always at the same point on the motif, turn sewing slightly, sew two stitches, etc.

Sewing Mitered Corners

• sew up to about 3/8" (1cm) before the corner
• when continuing to sew reduce the stitch width slightly (almost 0)
• stitch right into the middle of the corner, needle position down (outside the motif) and turn sewing
• continue sewing and set the stitch width to its original setting in the first 3/8" (1cm)

Sewing Curves

• sew slowly and stop often:
• inner curves (1): needle position down inside the curve
• outer curves (2): needle position down outside the curve
• turn sewing slightly and continue sewing
• repeat several times so that a nice and regular curve is obtained

TIP

Securing Sew a few straight stitches within the satin stitch

TIPS

Needle stop down Needle stays in fabric when pivoting and turning.

Sewing speed Reduced sewing speed allows better precision.

Perfect stitch formation Different fabric types may make it necessary to alter the stitch length and width.

144 Quilt Stitches – Applications

Blanket Stitches

Stitch: Blanket stitches No. 329, 330, 352, 353
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open embroidery foot No. 20C

Blanket Stitches

• stitches No. 329 and No. 352 are for light- to mediumweight fabrics
• stitches No. 330 and No. 353 are for medium- to heavyweight fabrics

Sewing With Blanket Stitch No. 329 or No. 330 (Double Blanket Stitch)

• particularly suitable for appliqué
• prepare motifs for appliqué and place on fabric
• sew along the appliqué
• make sure that the vertical parts of the stitch are sewn on the outside edge next to the appliqué on the base fabric and the horizontal parts of the stitch are placed on the appliqué

• For more information on «Sewing Appliqués» see pages 146-147 •••••••••••••••

Sewing With Blanket Stitch No. 352 (dual) or No. 353 (Double Blanket Stitch (dual))

• suitable for appliqué, attaching ribbons and sewing fabric strips, couching decorative threads or yarns
• prepare work
• sew exactly on the edge between the appliqués or ribbons
• make sure that the vertical parts of the stitch are sewn directly between the appliqué or strips and the horizontal parts of the stitch are placed on the appliqué or strips to the left and right of both edges

TIP

Hand-stitched effect

• for a hand-stitched effect increase the stitch length and width according to the fabric
• for single blanket stitch, thread a 90 needle with two threads (using two spools and threading as one) for a hand-stitched effect

Quilt Stitches – Applications 145

Turned-edge Appliqués

Stitch: Blindstitch No. 331 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: monofilament Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Turned-edge Appliqué

• the motifs with turned edges are sewn on the base fabric
• with monofilament thread the seam is hardly visible

Preparation

❖ draw a mirror image of the motif on the non adhesive side of a slightly stronger press-on stabilizer ❖ cut out stabilizer along the outline with scissors or rotary cutter ❖ press the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the appliqué fabric (make sure that the stabilizer sticks well) ❖ cut all around the fabric with an allowance of approximately 6mm ❖ snip allowance every 5mm (closer together in narrow curves)

❖ fold allowance over the stabilizer edge to the wrong side. The form is determined by the pressed on stabilizer. Smooth edges with finger. ❖ press and if necessary correct form irregularities

Sewing

❖ place motif on base fabric and pin or use spray adhesive ❖ sew appliqué with the blindstitch clockwise all around ❖ sew that only the tips of the stitch (left points of stitch) are placed in the appliqué motif

146 Quilt Stitches – Applications

Variations

Use Paper Template Instead of Press-on Stabilizer

• use thicker paper as template instead of press-on stabilizer
  • by removing the paper before sewing, the appliqué will be softer (covers, cushions, etc.)
• draw motif on the thicker paper and prepare the appliqué as described (press the allowance around the paper template)
• remove paper after pressing
• pin motif and sew

Freezer Paper

• freezer paper is well known in quilter circles and is used instead of press-on stabilizer
• work on appliqué as described using spray adhesive on freezer paper to attach it to the appliqué fabric
• press allowance onto the shiny side
• sew the motif, however stop shortly before the end and pull out the freezer paper through the opening

Freehand Quilting

Stitch: Quilting straight stitch No. 325
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: monofilament, cotton or decorative
Feed dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 or Quilting foot No. 29 (optional accessory)

Preparation

• prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing the batting between the lining and the top layer
• pin and baste the «quilt sandwich»

Freehand Quilting

• for all freehand quilt work

Holding the Work

• hold and guide the fabric with both hands
• start quilting in the center and work out towards the edges

Quilting a Design

• turn the work using smooth, round movements to form the design of your choice (either freehand or following a template)

Stipple Quilting

• this technique covers the entire surface of the fabric
• the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp corners; they never cross or touch one another

TIP

Freehand quilting and darning
Both techniques are based on the same free-motion principles.

TIP

Monofilament thread breaks
If the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly.

TIP

Poor stitch formation

• if the thread forms loops, the work is being moved too quickly
• if knots are forming on the wrong side, the work is being moved too slowly
• place fabric in a hoop for easier guiding

TIP

Thread breaks
Usually as a result of sudden or jerky movements – move the fabric smoothly and at an even pace.

148 Quilt Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Programming Screen 150 Selecting Motifs 151 Deleting Motifs 151 Altering Motifs 152

Personal Program

Programming Screen With Personal Stitches

Use the Personal Program to design a screen with the stitches you use most.

Whether it is made up of stitches for a certain type of sewing, such as heirloom or garment, or just your favorite practical and decorative stitches or alphabets, this screen will make it easy and quick to sew any project.

When inserting stitches into the Personal Program, variations of all stitches may be entered into the Personal Program.

Note: Following alterations may be entered:

• stitch width
• stitch length
• Needle Position
• Thread Tension
• Mirror Image
• Pattern Extend
• Long Stitch
• Balance
• Pattern Repeat 1–9

Programming First Stitch ❖ select the zig-zag stitch from the Practical Stitch program (make alterations if necessary) ❖ touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)

• a special screen appears ❖ touch the bar «Add to Personal Program»
• the zig-zag stitch is saved in the Personal Program (including any alterations), the special screen closes

Programming Second Stitch ❖ press the Buttonhole button ❖ select Standard buttonhole (No. 51) ❖ touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)

• a special screen appears ❖ touch the bar «Add to Personal Program»
• the Standard buttonhole is saved in the Personal Program, the special screen closes ❖ add further stitches in the same manner

150 Personal Program

Selecting Stitches in Personal Program

Activating Personal Program

• press the Personal Program button

Personal Screen

• in the personal screen the programmed stitches are visible (progressive stitch numbers)
• when more than 15 stitches are programmed, use arrow to scroll for viewing additional stitches

for more information on Selecting Programmed Buttonhole see page 118 •••••••••••••••••••••

Deleting Personal Stitches

Activating Personal Program

• press the Personal Program button

Personal Program Screen

• select the stitch to be deleted

• touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)

• a special screen appears

• touch the bar «Remove from Personal Program»

Stitch Deleted

• the special screen closes
• the selected stitch is deleted, all remaining stitches will move along to fill the space

Personal Program 151

Altering Stitches

Activating Personal Program ❖ press the Personal Program button

Personal Program Screen ❖ select the stitch to be altered (e.g. zig-zag) ❖ alter stitch width and length with the external stitch width and stitch length knobs

• the alterations as well as the basic settings are indicated ❖ touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)

• a special screen appears ❖ touch the bar «Save Settings» and all alterations are saved, the special screen closes

Special Screen

• «Save Settings»: all alterations (stitch length and width, etc.) of the selected stitch are saved
• «Reset Settings»: all alterations of the selected stitch are reset to basic settings
• «Add to Personal Program»: a selected stitch (with possible alterations) is saved in the Personal Program
• «Remove from Personal Program»: a selected stitch is deleted from the Personal Program
• touch «ESC» – the screen closes without anything being saved

• for more information on Saving Altered Settings Permanently see page 24 ••••••••••••

TIP

The possible alterations of the original stitch setting can also be altered permanently in each category.

152 Personal Program

Programming and Saving 154

• In general • Stitch combinations • Opening saved combinations

Corrections and Alterations 157

• Deleting • Inserting stitch combinations • Sub-dividing combinations

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations

In General

Stitches, letters, and numbers can be combined and stored in the memory system. The sewing computer has a memory system, in which the two memories – sewing and embroidery – can be stored. The storage space is not sub-divided into fixed spaces, i.e. any number of stitch combinations can be stored in the Drawers as long as there is free storage space

(capacity) available. It may well be, however, that not all Drawers can be filled, due to the saving of many stitches or stitch combinations.

The memory is a long term memory, i.e. the contents remain in it until deliberately deleted. A power cut, or switching off («0») the sewing computer do not affect the saved program.

Programming and Saving

Programming and Saving Stitch Combinations

Programming and Saving Stitches

❖ select Combi Mode

• the Stitch Altering Area appears with its functions ❖ select desired stitch ❖ alter stitch length, stitch width, needle position or functions such as mirroring, etc. if necessary

❖ select further stitches

❖ touch the Multifunction button ❖ touch «Save Combination» to save the combination

❖ select the Drawer where you wish to save the stitch combination

• the System Memory Capacity (Free Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a bar above the Drawers screen

154 Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Programming and Saving

Programming and Saving Stitches by Number

• select Combi Mode
• touch «0–9» button
• enter number of desired stitch
• touch arrow to delete individual numbers
• touch field above the numeric pad to delete all numbers
• touch «Add» to select further stitches by number
• touch «OK» if selection is complete
• touch the Multifunction button
• touch the function «Save Combination»
• select the Drawer where you wish to save the stitch combination

Empty Stitch Altering Area

• if the Combi Mode has already been in use and the sewing computer has not been switched off («0») since, the last programmed or selected stitch combination appears in the Stitch Altering Area
• empty the Stitch Altering Area by deleting combination or open an empty Drawer to program a new combination

Emptying the Stitch Altering Area in Steps

• the stitch above the cursor is deleted
• touch the Delete function until the Stitch Altering Area is empty

Emptying the Stitch Altering Area in a Single Step

• touch the Multifunction button
• select «Delete Combination»
• touch «Yes» to confirm the message
• the Stitch Altering Area is now empty, and a new stitch combination can be programmed

Note: This procedure does not affect stitch combinations already saved, which remain intact.

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Programming and Saving 155

Opening Empty Drawer

• touch the «File Drawers» button
• Drawers screen appears
• select an empty Drawer
• the System Memory Capacity (Free Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a bar above the Drawers screen

• the Stitch Altering Area is now empty, and a new stitch combination can be programmed
• if desired, save the stitch combination

Drawer Content at a Glance

• program a stitch combination
• the corresponding stitch combination is visible in the Stitch Altering Area
• touch the Multifunction button
• select «Preview»
• the stitch combination is displayed on screen
• each stitch can be selected directly, e.g. to alter it:
  • select stitch, SAA appears automatically to alter selected stitch
• use the arrows to scroll through the stitch combinations
• use the Binocular icon to switch to the Preview screen (sewing view)
• touch «ESC» to close the Preview screen

Opening Saved Combination

Opening a Saved Combination

• touch «File Drawers»
• a summary of the saved combinations appears
• scroll to the desired Drawer if necessary
• touch the desired Drawer
• the saved combination appears in the Stitch Altering Area

156 Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Programming and Saving

Correcting Stitch Combinations

Deleting the Stitch Last Programmed ❖ touch «Delete» • the stitch last entered is deleted

Note: All alterations always affect the area above the cursor.

Deleting a Stitch Within the Combination ❖ use the scroll arrows to move the cursor below the stitch to be deleted, or select the stitch directly ❖ touch «Delete» • the stitch above the cursor is deleted • the stitches are automatically recombined

Corrections and Alterations

Inserting Stitches ❖ to activate the desired place, scroll the cursor or select appropriate stitch directly (new stitch is inserted after the selected stitch) • to insert a stitch at the very beginning of a combination, move the cursor right to the top using the scroll arrow

❖ select new stitch • the new stitch is inserted above the cursor

Altering Stitch Combinations ❖ to activate the desired place, scroll the cursor or select the appropriate stitch directly ❖ select desired function (e.g. mirroring)

Note: Already saved stitch combinations can be altered or corrected in the same way. To save corrections and alterations permanently, the combination must be resaved afterwards.

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Corrections and Alterations 157

Mirroring Entire Combinations

• touch Multifunction button
• touch «Mirror Combination»
• the entire combination is mirrored horizontally (left/right)

Sub-dividing Combinations

• a combination can be divided into different parts with the function «Combination Sub-Divider (2)» (e.g. name, street, place, etc.)
• sew the first part, the sewing computer stops automatically when reaching the Sub-divider function
• reposition the fabric: press the foot control and the next part is sewn, etc.
• when using the «Combination Sub-Divider (1)», only that particular part of the sub-division is sewn where the cursor is placed allowing you to program many stitches in one file, but use the «Combination Sub-Divider (1)» to treat each segment as its own file

Deleting Drawer

Option 1: Overwriting

• program new stitch combination
• touch Multifunction button
• touch the «Save» button (Drawers screen appears)
• select the Drawer you wish to overwrite
• confirm message with «Yes»
• the new stitch combination is now saved in this Drawer

Option 2: Deleting

• touch the button «File Drawers»
• saved combinations appear
• touch «Delete»
• a message appears: select the combination you wish to delete
• touch desired Drawer to delete combination
• touch «ESC» to close Drawers screen

158 Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Corrections and Alterations

In General 160 Display 161 Sewing Settings 162 Embroidery Settings 163 Touch (Screen Sensitivity) 165 Customize Favorite Function Button 166 Software and Language 166 Messages and Audio Settings 167 Portal Provider Settings 169 Reset to Factory 170

Setup Program