Bernina 200E owner's manual: Sideways Motion Stitches

Sideways Motion Stitches

Combining Manually With Templates

Stitch: Sideways motion stitches
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C

Using Templates to Position Sideways Motion Stitches

• use templates to position the sideways motion stitch on the desired place on the fabric
• transfer the starting point (circle) of the stitch to the fabric

Sewing

• use the slide-on table to enlarge the sewing area
• select sideways motion stitch in Single Mode
• place sideways motion presser foot on the fabric as shown on the template so that needle will go through starting point of the stitch
• stitch

Continuous Sideways Motion Stitch as Single Repeat

• touch Pattern End 1-9x function once («1» appears in display): sewing computer stops automatically

Using the Template to Add an Additional Sideways Motion Stitch

• use template to add another sideways motion stitch: position template on fabric once more, mark starting point again, select sideways motion stitch, place presser foot as shown on template and stitch

TIP

Automatic Thread Cutter
Since threads are secured automatically when sewing sideways motion stitches, it is particularly convenient after stitching to cut off threads directly using the Automatic Thread Cutter function.

Decorative stitches – Applications
91

Sideways Motion Stitches

Automatic Connection With 16 Directional Sewing

Stitch: Sideways motion stitches Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: decorative Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C

Automatic Connection of Sideways Motion Stitches With 16 Directional Sewing

• sideways motion stitches can be connected automatically using the 16 Directional Sewing in Combi Mode

Using Templates to Define Spacing

❖ place template of first sideways motion stitch (e.g. No. 205) on fabric ❖ mark start and end point of first stitch ❖ place second stitch using the 16 Directional Sewing template (same sewing direction as first stitch)

• the presser foot icon, which shows in the sewing direction, is placed on the end point of the first stitch
• start point of second stitch must be placed on one of the 16 sewing directions and one of the spacing points (point of arrow) ❖ note direction to start point of next stitch (e.g. No. 205) and count number of spaces in-between (9mm each)

Programming Sideways Motion Stitches and Spaces

❖ select desired sideways motion stitch (e.g. No. 205) in Combi Mode ❖ select «16 Directional Sewing» ❖ select Straight stitch No. 39, default setting with stitch length 1 (sews only every 3rd stitch = 3mm) ❖ using the arrow on-screen buttons, enter direction as noted before ❖ activate Long Stitch function (sews only every 9th stitch) * 1 Straight stitch No. 39 (stitch length 1) in combination with Long Stitch function gives a 9mm space ❖ enter number of straight stitches (= connecting stitches) according to spaces counted ❖ remember to delete Long Stitch function! ❖ select second sideways motion stitch ❖ to sew a single repeat activate Pattern End 1-9x function («1» appears)

92 Decorative stitches – Applications

Sewing the Stitch Combination

• place sideways motion presser foot on fabric as shown on template so that needle will go through starting point of stitch
• the sewing computer will stitch the first stitch first, then switch automatically to connecting stitches, and stop automatically at the end of the second stitch
• since the sideways motion stitches are secured automatically, the connecting stitches can be cut away when the stitching is completed

Correcting a Combination

Inserting Stitches

• stitches are always inserted above the cursor
• to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor upwards, using the scrolling arrow
• activate desired place by selecting the desired stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it
• select new stitch
• the stitch will be inserted above the cursor

Deleting Stitches

• stitches are always deleted above the cursor
• activate desired place by selecting desired stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it
• touch «Delete»
• stitch is deleted

«Saving Combinations» see page 154

For more information on Preview of Combination see page 156

TIP Automatic Thread Cutter

Since threads are secured automatically when sewing sideways motion stitches, it is particularly convenient after stitching to cut off threads directly using the Automatic Thread Cutter function.

Decorative stitches – Applications 93

16 Directional Sewing

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 39 / Zig-zag stitch No. 40 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or decorative Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C

16 Directional Sewing

• sew automatically in 16 directions without turning fabric
• for many decorative projects
• for quilting without turning the fabric

Screen Display

❖ select «16 Directional Sewing» screen display ❖ touch straight stitch or zig-zag ❖ a presser foot symbol with the 16 sewing directions all around it appears in the middle of the screen ❖ use the right or left arrow on-screen button to change direction one step at a time

Straight Stitch No. 39

❖ Straight stitch No. 39 sews only every third stitch

• the default setting for stitch length is 1 (= 3mm) and is infinitely variable from 0 - 1 (= 0 - 3mm)

❖ activate Long Stitch function in addition: the sewing computer sews every 9th stitch (stitch length default setting 1 is 9mm)

Zig-zag Stitch No. 40

• stitch length is preprogrammed for satin stitching and is infinitely variable from 0 - 1mm
• stitch width is adjustable from 0 - 9mm

Sewing

❖ select desired stitch

• adjust stitch width and length if required ❖ touch arrow on-screen button to set sewing direction
• the sewing computer will sew the selected stitch in the selected direction displayed

Changing Direction

❖ stop the sewing computer when the desired length has been stitched ❖ touch arrow on-screen button to change sewing direction ❖ stitch

94 Decorative stitches – Applications

Connecting Stitches

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 39
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C

16 Directional Straight Stitches as Connecting Stitches

• particularly suitable for scattering motifs over large areas
• connecting individual motifs, sideways motion stitches, or monogrammed letters
• connecting threads are removed after sewing

Straight Stitch With Long Stitch Function

• straight stitch with stitch length 1 default setting sews only every third stitch (= 3mm)
• if Long Stitch function added, the sewing computer will sew every 9th stitch (= 9mm)
• stitch length is infinitely variable

Sewing and Freely Combining

• select decorative stitch and sew once (first touch Pattern Repeat 1-9x function once)
• select Straight stitch No. 39
• use the arrow on-screen buttons to determine sewing direction
• touch Long Stitch function
• sew connecting stitches (sewing computer will sew the selected long straight stitch in the direction shown)
• touch «Pattern End» button on head frame
• sewing computer stops automatically once the stitch has been completed
• do not forget to delete Long Stitch function!

Creating a Combination in Combi Mode

• instead of freely connecting stitches, the stitches may be programmed with the connecting stitches in Combi Mode
• the programming of connected stitches is the same as for connecting sideways motion stitches or monogrammed letters

Note:
Activate Securing function to secure motifs at beginning and end. This will ensure that the motif stays in place once the connecting threads are clipped.

more information on:

• Connecting Sideways Motion Stitches on page 92
• Connecting Monogrammed Letters on page 105
• Saving Combinations on page 154 ●●●●●●●●●●●●●

Decorative stitches – Applications 95

4 Directional Sewing

Stitch: Stitch Nos. 41 - 48 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or decorative Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C

4 Sewing directions

• 4 directional automatic sewing without turning fabric
• sewing decorative squares
• appliquéing squares
• sewing patches on garments, especially on pants legs, sleeves, etc.

Screen Display

❖ select «4 Directional Sewing» screen display

• 8 different stitches are available to you:
  • No. 41 Straight stitch
  • No. 42 Zig-zag stitch
  • No. 43 Jersey stitch
  • No. 44 Running stitch
  • No. 45 Double overlock
  • No. 46 Paris stitch
  • No. 47 Super stretch
  • No. 48 Honeycomb

• a presser foot symbol with the 4 sewing directions arranged around it appears in the middle of the screen
• use the right or left arrow on-screen button to change direction one step at a time
• stitch length can only be altered for forward and reverse stitching

Preparation

❖ place square on fabric, pin and baste if required ❖ first place double-sided fusible stabilizer under square, then press onto fabric

• for more information on preparation with double-sided fusible stabilizer see «Preparation of Appliqué» on page 143

Sewing on a Square

❖ select desired stitch

• it is easiest to sew the square on clockwise ❖ sew one side with the needle swing stitching alternately into the square and just off the square into the fabric ❖ touch arrow on-screen buttons to change sewing direction ❖ sew next side, etc.

96 Decorative stitches – Applications

Lettering

Alphabet Summary

Alphabets ❖ press Alphabet button

A Summary

Alphabet Summary • Alphabet summary appears

Block

Double Block

Script (Italics)

Monograms 30/20/15mm (sideways motion)

• for more information on Full Stitch Summary see page 264 ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

98 Lettering – Summary

Important Lettering Information

Lettering – Alphabets, Numbers, Punctuation Marks

• 4 different alphabets are available
• each of the alphabets can be sewn in two different sizes as well as in lower case (apart from the monograms)
• the monogram letters alphabet is available in three different sizes

Application

• for names, monograms and addresses
• for words and texts
• for labeling quilts (quilt labels)

A

Selecting Alphabets

❖ press Alphabet button

• Alphabet folders appear on screen:
  • Block (9mm)
  • Double Block (9mm)
  • Script (Italics) (9mm)
  • Monograms 30/20/15mm (sideways motion) ❖ touch one of the buttons to select
• desired alphabet is activated

On-screen Letter Selection

• scroll up and down to view all capital letters, numbers, punctuation marks and special characters ❖ touching the «A/a» on-screen button changes to lower case

Perfect Stitch Formation

❖ use the same color for upper and bobbin threads ❖ use stabilizer on the wrong side to reinforce sewing project ❖ use additional water soluble stabilizer on the right size on pile and long fiber fabric (e. g. wool, velvet, etc.) ❖ use simpler letters, programmed with straight stitches (like Double Block lettering), on lightweight fabrics, and satin stitch programmed lettering (like monograms) on heavyweight fabrics for decorative accents

Lettering – Summary 99

Combining Lettering (9mm)

Letters 9mm

• individual letters and rows of the same letter of the same alphabet are sewn in Single Mode
• letters for names, addresses, words, etc. are combined and sewn in Combi Mode

A Applications

Letters in Combi Mode

Combining Letters

• open Combi Mode
• select desired letter
  • letter appears in Stitch Altering Area and on bar above Alphabet menu
  • cursor is below the letter

Further Programming

• select next letter and touch required button

  • second letter appears in Stitch Altering Area, etc.

• For more information on Preview of Combination see page 156

100 Lettering – Applications

Combining Lettering and Functions

Change Size

• select function before programming the lettering
• touch Alphabet Size button: the field with number «2» is blue
  • the letter size is reduced to 6mm
• touch «Alphabet Size» again to reactivate the larger size (field with number «1» is blue)

Select Lower Case

• select function before programming the lettering
• touch Lower Case/Upper Case button
  • the field is blue, meaning that Lower Case is active
• touch Lower Case/Upper Case button again
  • Upper Case is reactivated

Mirroring Lettering

• touch «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)»
  • the stitch is mirrored horizontally
• for special effects «Vertical Mirror Image» can be selected

• for more information on Mirror Combination left/right see page 158

Using Pattern Extend to Stretch Lettering

• touch «Pattern Extend» one time
  • selected stitch or pattern is stretched by 2 times its original size

Sample of Combination of Lettering and Functions

• open «Combi Mode»
• select Script, and touch capital B
  • capital B is displayed in Stitch Altering Area
• select Lower Case function
• select the letters e, r, n, i, n, and a in lower case and in that order
  • «Bernina» is displayed in Stitch Altering Area

Pattern Combination as Single or Multiple Repeat

• create pattern combination
• touch «Pattern Repeat 1-9x» button one or more times (numbers 1-9 appear)
  • sewing computer stops automatically after completing selected number of patterns

Lettering – Applications 101

Combination Sub-divider

• Combination Sub-divider is used to stitch a text, e.g. an address, in subsequent lines instead of in one continuous line ❖ insert «Combination Sub-divider» at the desired places ❖ stitch, the sewing computer stops automatically at the end of the first combination part ❖ place fabric again ❖ continue to stitch, the sewing computer stops automatically at the end of the second combination part ❖ repeat as often as required

Note: For accurate placement of the lettering in equally spaced lines, draw a guide line on the fabric. For centered texts, sew it out first to measure it, then draw the guide lines.

A Correcting Combinations

Inserting Letters

• a letter is always inserted above the cursor
• cursor must be scrolled up (arrow) to insert an additional letter at the beginning of lettering ❖ activate desired place by selecting required letter in Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it ❖ select new letter
• letter is inserted above cursor

Deleting Letters ❖ a letter is always deleted above the cursor ❖ activate desired place by selecting required letter in Stitch Altering Area, or scroll to it ❖ touch «Delete»

• letter is deleted

• «Saving Combinations» see page 154 ••••••••

TIP Adding Securing function (4 small securing stitches)

There are different ways to automatically secure stitching:

1. touch function button before starting to sew to secure stitching at the beginning
2. touch function button after completing the stitching to secure it at the end
3. program function within a combination to secure accordingly

TIP Using specialty needles (e. g. double needle)

❖ after inserting specialty needle, activate corresponding double needle in Security Program

• stitch width is automatically limited according to the needle selected
• stitch width can also be limited manually when using «normal» needles to reduce lettering size accordingly

102 Lettering – Applications

General Monogramming Information

Sideways Motion

Monograms (sideways motion)

• sideways motion stitches are large stitches or patterns which are sewn with the fabric being fed sideways, as well as forward and backward
• monograms (sideways motion) are represented by 4 arrows top left in the Stitch Altering Area
• start (green point) and end (red cross) are visible in the Stitch Altering Area

Monogram Sizes

• lettering size 1 is 30mm
• when starting the monogramming program, lettering size 1 is normally activated
• monograms in size 1 are individual letters, which means that the sewing computer secures and stops after each letter
• the templates included with the owner's manual contain size 1 monograms

• lettering size 2 is 20mm

  • touch Alphabet Size button: the field with number «2» is blue

• size 2 monograms are sewn in a continuous horizontal row on the fabric

• lettering size 3 is 15mm

  • touch Alphabet Size button: the field with number «3» is blue

• size 3 monograms are sewn in a continuous horizontal row on the fabric

Note: Size 1 monograms are dealt with differently than sizes 2 and 3. See pages 104-106 (size 1) 107-108 (size 2 and 3).

Sewing Sideways Motion Stitches

• use slide-on table to enlarge sewing area
• when sewing, ensure that fabric feeds smoothly and easily, without bumping into anything or dragging
• it is important to let the sewing computer do the stitching freely; do not pull, push, or hold the fabric back

Balance

• depending on type of fabric, stabilizer and thread quality, the stitched patterns may differ slightly from the original
• use the Balance function to match the selected stitch to the fabric used

TIP Test sewing It is always a good idea to test sew with the materials you intend to use – fabric, stabilizer, and threads.

Lettering – Applications 103

Size 1 Monograms

Stitch: Size 1 monograms
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C

Size 1 Monograms

• size 1 monograms are individual letters, which means that the sewing computer secures and stops
• templates are used to position monograms
• monograms can be positioned and combined manually, using templates, or connected automatically with the 16 sewing directions

Templates as Sewing Help

• the templates included with the owner’s manual are helpful when positioning patterns on the fabric
• all size 1 monograms are printed in their original size on the templates
• the starting point of the individual pattern is marked with a green circle, the end with a red cross. The beginning and end are also provided with a hole (for accurate transfer and marking on the fabric)
• the sewing direction is shown with the presser foot symbol and thin guiding lines
• the presser foot must always run parallel to the guiding lines when sewing

Combining Monogram Letters Manually With Templates

Combining Monogram Letters With Templates

• using the template, position letter at desired place on fabric
• transfer starting point (circle) of letter to fabric

Sewing

• select letter in Single Mode
• place sideways motion presser foot on the fabric as shown on the template so that needle will go through starting point on letter
• stitch letter

104 Lettering – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Adding Letter Using the Template

• use template to add letter on fabric. Again: mark starting point, select letter, place presser foot as shown on template, and stitch letter

Connecting Monogram Combinations Automatically With 16 Directional Sewing

Instead of combining monogram letters manually, they can be combined automatically using the template and the 16 Directional Sewing function.

A

Determining Spacings Using Templates

• place template with first letter of monogram (e. g. «F») on fabric
• mark start and end point of letter
• using the 16 directional sewing template, place second letter of monogram (same sewing direction as first pattern (letter))
  • the foot icon, pointing in the sewing direction, is placed on the end point of the first pattern
• the start point of the second letter (e. g. «G») must be placed on one of the 16 directions and a spacing mark (arrow point)
• read the direction to the start point of the next sideways motion stitches (letter), and count the number of spaces (9mm each)

Programming Monograms and Spaces

• select desired letter in Combi Mode (e. g. «F»)
• select 16 Directional Sewing in Decorative Stitches Category
• select Straight stitch No. 39 with stitch length basic setting 1 (sews only every 3rd stitch, and is 3mm)
• enter desired direction
• activate Long Stitch function (sews only every 9th stitch)
  • one Straight stitch No. 39 (stitch length 1) in combination with the Long Stitch function leads to a spacing of 9mm length
• program the number of required straight stitches (connecting stitches) according to the counted spacings
• Do not forget to delete the Long Stitch function!
• select second letter (e. g. «G»)
• to sew a single repeat activate «Pattern Repeat 1-9x» (number «1» appears)

Lettering – Applications 105

Sewing Monograms ❖ place sideways motion presser foot on the fabric as shown on the template so that needle will go through starting point on letter • sewing computer will first stitch first letter («F»), sews automatically the connecting stitches, and stops automatically at end of second letter («G») • since the monogrammed letters are secured automatically, the connecting stitches can be cut away after completing the stitching

A Correcting Combinations

Inserting Stitches • a stitch is always inserted above the cursor • to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor up, using the scrolling arrow ❖ activate desired place by selecting the required stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it ❖ select new stitch ❖ the stitch will be inserted above the cursor

Deleting Stitches • stitches are always deleted above the cursor ❖ activate desired place by selecting required stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it ❖ touch «Delete» • stitch is deleted

For more information on Preview of Combination see page 156 •••••••• «Saving Combinations» see page 154 ••••••••

TIP Automatic Thread Cutter

Since threads are secured automatically when sewing sideways motion stitches, it is particularly convenient after stitching to cut off threads directly using the Automatic Thread Cutter function.

106 Lettering – Applications

Size 2 and 3 Monograms

Size 2 and 3 Monograms

• size 2 and 3 monograms are sewn in a continuous horizontal line
• size 2 and 3 monograms are dealt with similarly to 9mm lettering

Size 2 and 3 Monograms in Combi Mode

Combining Size 2 and 3 Monograms

❖ open Combi Mode ❖ select desired letter

• letter appears in Stitch Altering Area
• cursor is behind the letter

Further Programming

❖ select next letter, and touch corresponding button

• second letter appears in Stitch Altering Area, etc.

• for more information on Preview of Combination see page 156

Lettering – Applications 107

Combining Size 2 and 3 Monograms and Functions

Combining Lettering and Functions – An Example

• open Combi Mode
• touch letter «B»
  • letter «B» appears in Stitch Altering Area
• select size 2 monograms
• touch letter «E»
• select size 3 monograms
• select the letters R, N, I, N, A in that order
  • the Stitch Altering Area now displays the word «BERNINA»

A 2x

Pattern Combination in Single or Multiple Repeat

• touch Pattern Repeat 1–9x button one or more times (numbers 1–9 appear) after creating a combination
  • the sewing computer stops automatically on completion of the entered number of combinations

Correcting Combinations

Inserting Stitches

• a stitch is always inserted above the cursor
• to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor up, using the scrolling arrow
• activate desired place by selecting the required stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it
• select new stitch
• the stitch will be inserted above the cursor

Deleting Stitches

• stitches are always deleted above the cursor

• activate desired place by selecting required stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it

• touch «Delete»

• stitch is deleted

• «Saving Combinations» see page 154

• for more information on Preview of Combination see page 156

108 Lettering – Applications

Buttonholes

Buttonhole Summary 110 Buttonhole Functions 111 Important Information 112 Corded Buttonholes 114 Automatic Buttonhole 116

• all types with Direct Entry Length
• Standard and stretch with length calculated from button Buttonhole in Long Term Memory 118 Automatic Buttonholes (Standard and Stretch) 119
• without stitch counter buttonhole Automatic Round, Keyhole and Hand-look Buttonholes 121
• without stitch counter buttonhole Stitch Counter Buttonhole 123 Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonhole 125
• all types of buttonholes
• Round and keyhole buttonhole Straight Stitch Buttonhole 127 Bound Buttonhole 129 Decorative Buttonholes 131 Button Sew-on Program 132 Eyelets 133

Stitch Summary

Summary

Application of Buttonholes

Standard Buttonhole Light- to mediumweight fabrics. Blouses, dresses, bedding, etc.

Narrow buttonhole (heirloom sewing) Light- to mediumweight fabrics. Blouses, dresses, children’s and baby clothes, dolls’ clothes, crafts

Stretch buttonhole All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk and synthetic fibers

Round buttonhole with normal bartack For medium- to heavyweight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear

Round buttonhole with horizontal bartack For medium- to heavyweight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear

Keyhole buttonhole with normal bartack Heavyweight non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear

Keyhole buttonhole with pointed bartack Heavyweight non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear

Keyhole buttonhole with horizontal bartack For firm non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear

Hand-look buttonhole Light- to mediumweight woven fabrics. Blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bedding

Straight stitch buttonhole For reinforcing buttonholes, pocket edges, especially for stitching buttonholes in leather or imitation suede

Button sew-on program For buttons with 2 and 4 holes

Narrow zig-zag eyelet Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, decorative work

Straight stitch eyelet Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, decorative work

110 Buttonholes – Summary

In General

Buttonholes are practical closures which can also be used for a decorative effect. The artista 200 provides a very versatile selection. All buttonholes can be sewn and programmed in a variety of ways.

Buttonholes/Button Sew-on Program/Eyelets

• press Buttonhole button
• a summary of the different buttonholes and eyelets appears on the screen display

Select Buttonhole/Buttonhole Sew-on Program/Eyelet

• touch desired stitch

• the selected buttonhole, eyelet or button sew-on program is activated

• if one of the stitches (51-63) is activated, all functions that can be used are on the function toolbar

• for more information on Application see pages 116-133

Buttonhole Program Functions

The functions below appear on the function toolbar at the lower edge of the screen display when any buttonhole (51-59 + 63) is selected.

Programming Buttonhole Length

• the symbol is automatically highlighted in blue (active) when a buttonhole is selected
• using the Quick Reverse button on head frame a buttonhole length can be determined directly
• when the buttonhole is programmed the symbol is turned off (inactive, yellow)
• if a new length is to be programmed the symbol has to be reselected

Manual Buttonhole

• touch symbol to open special screen display
• sew manual buttonhole in 4 or 6 steps (according to buttonhole type) Application:
  • for individual manually sewn buttonholes
  • to repair existing buttonholes

Buttonhole Length – Direct Entry Length (in mm) or On-screen Button Measurement

• touch symbol to open special screen display
• enter the buttonhole length (stitch length in mm) directly with the stitch length or stitch width knob
• to measure hold button to bottom lower left corner of screen
• the buttonhole length is obtained by adjusting blue circle to button size (with stitch length or stitch width knob)
• 2mm for the button thickness will be added automatically (with on-screen button measurement only) Application:
  • simple method to determine buttonhole size by direct entry of the length in mm or by measuring button on the screen

Stitch Counter Buttonhole

• select buttonhole
• touch symbol
• the stitch counter buttonhole is activated
• when the desired length is reached (first buttonhole bead), press the external Quick Reverse button
• after length of second bead is determined by pressing the Quick Reverse button, the screen display changes to «auto Stitch Counter»
• the selected buttonhole is programmed

Buttonholes – Summary 111

Important Buttonhole Information

Marking Buttonholes

Manual Buttonholes

• Buttonhole foot No. 3C
• the buttonhole length of manually stitched buttonholes must be marked on the fabric in the appropriate position

Automatic Buttonholes

• Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
• mark the length of the first buttonhole
• after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed
• mark the starting point of all subsequent buttonholes
• the buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm

Correct Stabilizers for Buttonholes

1

2

Automatic Buttonholes

• always use a stabilizer (1) so that the buttonholes turn out well
• the stabilizer should suit the fabric type
• for thick and fluffy fabrics an embroidery stabilizer can be used (2). The fabric feeds better.

Sewing Buttonholes

Test Sewing

• always sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use with the same interlining and stabilizers
• select the same buttonhole type
• sew all buttonholes in the same direction on the fabric (with or against the grain)

Corrections

• to adjust the bead width, alter the stitch width
• to adjust the density of the beads, alter the stitch length
• any alterations to the stitch length with automatic and manual buttonholes affect both beads (making them more or less dense)

112 Buttonholes – Important Information

Thread Tension

• the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected
• the upper tension is slightly looser than normal
• this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads, making the buttonhole more attractive

Balance for Buttonholes

Balance for Direct Entry Length Standard Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads

Note: With Direct Entry Length and Manual buttonholes each individual buttonhole sequence can be balanced separately. With the Stitch Counter buttonholes any Balance alteration affects both beads differently (left and right): by adjusting the beads the keyhole or eye will be altered as well.

Balance for Direct Entry Length Keyhole or Round Buttonholes

• any Balance alterations affect both beads
• the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:
  • ❖ 1. sew straight stitches until the sewing computer changes to the keyhole or eye, then stop the sewing computer
  • ❖ 2. touch «Balance» and now adjust the picture in the right portion of the Balance screen with the stitch length knob to suit the sewn buttonhole
    • if keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A)
    • ❖ turn stitch length knob counter clockwise
    • if keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B)
    • ❖ turn stitch length knob clockwise
  • ❖ 3. touch «OK» and complete buttonhole

A B

Balance for Stitch Counter Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads differently:
• if left bead is too dense (picture A)
  • ❖ turn stitch length knob counter clockwise - left bead will be longer, right bead will be shorter
• if left bead not dense enough (picture B)
  • ❖ turn stitch length knob clockwise - left bead will be shorter, right bead will be longer
• ❖ reprogram buttonhole after each Balance alteration
• ❖ after any Balance changes are made, reprogram the buttonhole

Balance for Manual Standard Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads

Balance for Manual Round or Keyhole Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads differently (see picture for stitch counter buttonhole)
• the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:
  • if keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B)
  • ❖ turn stitch length knob counter clockwise
  • if keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A)
  • ❖ turn stitch length knob clockwise

Recommendation

❖ sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use

Clear Balance

❖ touch «Reset» in the special Balance screen or press external «clr» button («clr» deletes the programmed buttonhole as well!)

Buttonholes – Important Information 113

Corded Buttonholes

Cords

• gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance
• the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear
• position the work accordingly under the presser foot
• gimp cord is particularly recommended for standard and stretch buttonholes

Suitable Cords:

• Perle cotton No. 8
• strong hand-sewing thread
• fine crochet yarn

Attaching the Cord Onto Presser Foot No. 3C

• insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• hook the cord over the center toe of the foot

• place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole of the foot and pull them to the back
• lower the presser foot

Sewing

• sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, do not hold the cord tightly
• the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Securing the Cord

• pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end
• pull the ends of the cord through to wrong side of the fabric, knot or secure with stitches

TIP

With presser foot No. 3C also round and keyhole buttonholes can be reinforced with cord.

114 Buttonholes – Important Information

Attaching Cord in Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A

• insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• guide the cord under the foot to the right
• hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot

• bring the cords to the front of the foot
• pull each end into one of the notches at the front of the foot

Sewing

• sew the buttonhole in the usual manner
• do not hold the cord
• the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Securing Cord

• pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of it
• pull the ends of the cord through to wrong side of the fabric, knot or secure with stitches

Cutting Buttonholes Open

• using the seam ripper or buttonhole cutter and block, cut from both ends towards the middle
• in order not to cut the ends of short buttonholes by mistake, place a pin at the end of the buttonhole for additional security

Buttonhole Cutter and Block (optional accessory)

• place the fabric on a piece of wood
• place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole
• press the handle of the cutter (either by hand or with a hammer) to open the buttonhole

Sewing Buttonhole Diagonal to Edge

Height Compensating Plates for Buttonholes (optional accessory)

• when sewing a buttonhole using Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A on an uneven area (such as over a seam allowance), use the height compensating plates for buttonholes
• place the plates from the back between fabric and slide foot bottom up to the thick part of the fabric and push to front
• this accessory will create a smooth surface for the foot and help make a perfect buttonhole

Buttonholes – Important Information 115