Bernina 200E owner's manual: Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord

Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord

Gathering

Stitch: Gathering stitch No. 12
Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Shirring Elastic/Cord

• for gathering lengths of fabric, for finishing children’s and doll clothing, crafts, etc.

Preparation

• cut shirring elastic or cord double the length of the edge and fold in half lengthways
• hook over the center toe on the buttonhole foot
• take both ends of the cord under the foot to the back
• shirring elastic/cord lies in the openings of the buttonhole foot

Sewing

• sew a few stitches
• lift the elastic or cord at the front and pull towards you, leave ends behind the presser foot
• oversew cord without stitching into it
• stretch elastic while sewing; the more it is stretched, the tighter the gathers
• after sewing, pull the cord to gather the fabric

TIP

Securing beginning and end
Sew a few stitches with the feed dog lowered.

TIP

Presser foot pressure
Increase the foot pressure for better feeding of the fabric and cord if necessary.

TIP

Gathering of long lengths of fabric
Use two separate gathering cords instead of one hooked over the center toe.

Practical Stitches – Applications 63

Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord

Sewing on Narrow Elastic With Universal Stitch

Stitch: Universal stitch No. 15
Stitch width: depends on width of elastic
Needle: type and size to suit the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory)

Sewing on Elastic

• for gathering long lengths of fabric
• for ruffles and flounces in fine fabrics, outer garments, sportswear, children’s and doll clothing, crafts, etc.
• works well for gathered sleeve edges and neck openings

Preparation

• cut elastic to length required

Sewing

• oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch width to be slightly wider than the elastic
• needle must not pierce the elastic
• after sewing, adjust the gathers evenly

TIP

Secure the beginning and end of elastic
Sew a few straight stitches backwards and forwards to secure the elastic.

TIP

Quick hem finish

• for children’s or doll clothing
• sew sleeve edges with elastic before sewing seams

64 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord

Sewing on Wide Elastic

Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 or Sewn-out zig-zag No. 16 or Lycra stitch No. 17 Stitch length: adjust to suit elastic Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Needle stop: down

Wide Elastic

• for edges on sportswear and lingerie

Preparation

• cut elastic to length desired
• divide fabric edge and elastic into 4 equal sections and mark
• pin elastic to raw edge, matching up marks

Sewing

• stretch the elastic to fit the raw edge while sewing
• trim excess fabric close to the stitching

TIP

Gather edges first

• first sew two parallel straight stitches about 5mm apart for about 2" (5cm)
• knot the beginning of the threads
• hold bobbin thread, gather fabric
• to begin the elastic can be sewn on flat without being stretched

TIP

Preventing elastic from stretching too much

• Avoid over-stretching the elastic; adjust the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric.

Practical Stitches – Applications 65

Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord

Elastic Edges

Stitch: Zig-zag stitch No. 2 Stitch width: approximately 5mm Stitch length: 1–1.5mm Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Elastic Edges

• use on knit garments to re-form out-of-shape edges

Sewing

• guide double length of shirring elastic along the edge of the fabric, stretching the elastic slightly
• oversew the elastic with a zig-zag stitch (do not sew through the elastic, only over it)
• adjust elastic after sewing is complete to regain the correct shape and size

TIP

Prevent fabrics stretching To prevent the fabric from stretching as it is sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric.

66 Practical Stitches – Applications

Automatic Darning

Quick Darning of Holes or Worn Areas

Stitch: Simple darning program No. 22, Reinforced darning program No. 23
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: lightweight darning thread
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A, Reverse pattern foot No. 1C (only for Darning program No. 22)

Simple Darning Program No. 22

replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics

Preparation

• use Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
• select Stitch Counter icon on the toolbar on the lower part of the screen
• place a piece of lightweight stabilizer under the worn area before darning if necessary

Sewing

• sew the first row and stop
• press and release the Quick Reverse button at the desired length; this programs the first length
• continue sewing; the sewing computer stops automatically

Note:
The Simple darning program No. 22 can also be done with the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A (see following description).

Reinforced Darning Program No. 23

replaces threads along the lengthwise and crosswise grains in all fabrics

Preparation

• use Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
• place a piece of lightweight stabilizer under the worn area before darning if necessary

Sewing

• insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
• sew the first vertical row
• press and release the Quick Reverse button at the desired length; this programs the length needed
• continue sewing; the sewing computer stops automatically when finished

TIP

If the darning does not cover the whole worn or damaged area
Reposition the work under the foot to continue covering the worn or damaged area. Begin sewing; the program will repeat as often as desired (the length is saved).

TIP

If the darning becomes distorted
Correct with the Balance function see page 177.

Practical Stitches – Applications 67

Manual Darning

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: lightweight darning thread
Feed dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory)

Manual Darning

• darning holes or worn areas
• replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise grains in all fabrics

Preparation

• stretch fabric into darning hoop to prevent distortion
• use of the slide-on table is recommended

Sewing

• move the darning hoop smoothly by hand
• work from left to right without using pressure
• when changing direction on top and on bottom, move in curves (avoid points as this prevents holes and thread breakage)
• work in different lengths so that the thread is «lost» in the fabric

1. Stitch Over the Hole

• sew the first rows to cover the hole (not too close, sewing beyond the worn area)
• work the rows in irregular lengths
• turn work by a quarter turn – 90°

2. Cover the First Rows

• sew over the first rows – not too close for a soft finish
• turn work by a half turn –180°

3. Complete Darning

• loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows

Note:
Place suitable material under a large area.

TIP

Poor stitch formation

• if the thread is lying on the right side of the fabric, the hoop is being moved too quickly
• if there are knots on the wrong side of the fabric, the hoop is being moved too slowly

TIP

Thread breaks
If thread breakage is a problem, it could be that the hoop is not being moved smoothly.

68 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Patching Knits and Jersey

Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 14
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: lightweight darning thread
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Covering Worn or Damaged Areas

• particularly suitable for knit fabrics, lingerie

Preparation

• do not cut damaged area
• round off the edges of the patch to retain flexibility
• pin and baste to right side

Sewing

• place patch over worn area
• sew over edge
• sew a second row inside the first if required
• cut away damaged area

TIP

Knits
Use a new needle to prevent damage of the fabric loops.

TIP

Sewing stretch fabrics

• place a stabilizer under the fabric
• if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S); point slides easily between the fibers
• to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Practical Stitches – Applications
69

Freehand Embroidery

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 or Zig-zag stitch No. 2
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: embroidery thread, lightweight thread in bobbin
Feed dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory) or Freehand embroidery foot No. 24 (optional accessory)

Freehand Embroidery

• freehand embroidery is used for creative designing. With the Straight stitch No. 1 or Zig-zag stitch No. 2 the surface of the fabric can be covered with narrow or wide stitches
• use fine to mediumweight fabrics

Preparation

• draw desired motif with a pencil or marker on the fabric
• place stabilizer under fabric
• stretch fabric and stabilizer into wooden embroidery hoop (optional accessory)
• use slide-on table

Note:
If a thick decorative thread is used as bobbin thread, an extra bobbin case should be purchased.

Sewing

• stitch length: set on 0 and reduce upper thread tension slightly
• use Zig-zag stitch No. 2 to cover the surface of the fabric and set stitch width according to motif
• use Straight stitch No. 1 for sewing straight lines
• it is recommended to start with a circular motion, until some practice is gained
• hold hoop with both hands and move smoothly. To move up and down is easier than embroidering sideways; turn hoop to embroider sideways
• embroider rows of stitches next to each other according to desired density
• move with regular, consistent speed, if the thread lies loose on the right side of the fabric, the stitch area was moved too fast. If there are little knots on the wrong side, the stitch area was moved too slowly

TIP

Freehand embroidery on a water-soluble stabilizer
Motifs can also be embroidered on water-soluble stabilizer. Make sure that the stitches overlap so that the edge is firmly woven. Wash out the stabilizer afterwards, appliqué the motif onto a project.

TIP

Additional designing possibilities
Use different threads and fabrics.

70 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Bartack Program

Stitch: Bartack program No. 24 or No. 25 Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Bartack Program

• for reinforcing zippers, pocket edges, sewing on belt loops
• use for attaching ribbons to a quilt for tying

Sewing

• the sewing computer starts top left with the bartack program and automatically stops at the end of the program

TIP Decorative bartacks Increase the stitch length and sew the bartack program with decorative thread as a decorative element; or combine two together at right angles to each other as decoration.

TIP Shorten zipper A zipper that is too long can be trimmed and reinforced by using the Bartack program No. 25.

Practical Stitches – Applications 71

Fly Stitches

Stitch: Fly stitch No. 26 and No. 27
Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Sideways motion foot No. 40C

Fly Stitches

The fly stitch is used as reinforcement at the end of seams, e.g. pocket edges or slits

• stitch No. 26 is for mediumweight to thick fabric
• stitch No. 27 is for fine to mediumweight fabric

Sewing

• place presser foot No. 1C in the middle of the seam at the end of the slit or the pocket edge
• the fly stitch is automatically sewn from bottom to top (in reverse)
• the sewing computer stops automatically at the end

TIP

Hand-stitched effect
To get a hand-stitched effect the fly stitch can be sewn with a heavier thread.

TIP

The fly stitch can also be used as a decorative effect.

72 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Stitch Summary 74 Important Decorative Sewing Information 75 Decorative Stitches 9mm 76 Decorative Stitches in Combination With Functions 77 Combining Practical and Decorative Stitches 79 Cross Stitches 81 Heirloom Techniques 82 Hemstitches 83 Pintucks 84 Scallops Off the Edge 87 Corded Scallops 88 Sideways Motion Stitches 89 • General facts • Using templates for manual combining • Automatic connecting with 16 Directional Sewing 16 Directional Sewing 94 Connecting Stitches 95 4 Directional Sewing 96

Decorative Stitches

Decorative Stitches

9mm, 40mm, 16 Directional Sewing and 4 Directional Sewing

Decorative Stitches, 16 and 4 sewing directions ❖ press Decorative Stitch button, 16/4 directions

Summary

Summary

• The following list of categories appears:

Category 101... = «Nature» decorative stitches, 9mm Category 201... = «Nature» decorative stitches, 40mm Category 301... = Cross stitches, 9mm Category 401... = Home dec stitches, 9mm Category 501... = Satin and quilting stitches, 40mm Category 601... = Machine embellishment Category 701... = Heirloom stitches, 9mm Category 801... = Heirloom stitches, 40mm Category 901... = «Children» decorative stitches, 9mm Category 1015... = «Children» decorative stitches, 40mm Category 1101... = Zodiacs Category 16 Directions Sewing Category 4 Directions Sewing

• for a complete list of stitches, refer to page 260-263

74 Decorative Stitches – Summary

Important Decorative Sewing Information

Selecting Decorative Stitches

❖ press Decorative Stitch button

• a complete overview appears on the screen:
  • 101,..., 301,..., 401, ..., 601, ..., 701, ..., 901, ... = decorative stitches 9mm (decorative stitches of up to 9mm stitch width)
  • 201, ..., 501, ..., 801, ... 1015, ..., 1101, ... = sideways motion stitches (marked with 4 arrows); sideways motion stitches are large stitches or outline designs which are sewn with the fabric being fed sideways, as well as forward and backward
  • 4 Directional Sewing, 16 Directional Sewing: automatic feed in 4 or 16 directions ❖ touch the appropriate button to select and activate the desired category ❖ select the desired stitch

Application of Various Decorative Stitches

Depending on the type of fabric, select simple or more complicated decorative stitches to enhance the fabric.

❖ lightweight fabrics

• use simple decorative stitches for a particularly nice effect on lightweight fabric (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 101)

❖ mediumweight fabrics

• simple and more complicated decorative stitches - programmed with triple straight stitch or with a few satin stitches - are particularly suitable for mediumweight fabrics (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 107)

❖ heavyweight fabrics

• use more intricate decorative stitches - programmed with satin stitches - on heavyweight fabrics for outstanding decorative stitching (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 401)

Perfect Stitch Formation

❖ use the same needle and bobbin thread color ❖ use a stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric for perfect stitch formation ❖ use an additional, water soluble stabilizer on the right side of pile or longfiber fabrics (e.g. wool, velvet, etc.)

Decorative Stitches – Summary 75

Decorative Stitches

9mm

Stitch: Decorative stitches 9mm
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C, Open embroidery foot No. 20C

Decorative Stitches

• for any material
• to decorate and embellish

Applications

Stitch Selection

• press Decorative Stitches button
• select the desired stitch folder on screen (group 100, 300, 400, 600, 700 and 900 are 9mm stitches)
• select the desired stitch

Screen

• the stitch width and length is highlighted in blue
• default settings (stitch length and width) can be altered

Altering the Stitch Width (1)

• for decorative effects and stitch adjustments (e.g. in bulky places)
• wider = turn the external stitch width knob clockwise
• narrower = turn the external stitch width knob counter clockwise
• default settings and the alterations made will be displayed on screen
• reset default settings = touch the stitch width or length bar or turn the external knobs

Altering the Stitch Length (2)

• for decorative effects and stitch adjustments (e.g. in bulky places)
• longer = turn the external stitch length knob clockwise
• shorter = turn the external stitch length knob counter clockwise
• default settings and the alterations made will be displayed on screen
• reset default settings = touch the stitch width or length bar or turn the external knobs

TIP

Saving altered default settings

• save the stitch with its altered settings in your Personal Program

• change the factory settings of the stitch permanently

• for more details on Personal Program see page 150

• for more information see page 24-25

76 Decorative Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Combining Decorative Stitches and Functions

Stitch: Decorative stitches 9mm
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open embroidery foot No. 20C

Create amazing effects by combining decorative stitches and functions.

Instructions

• select desired stitch
• select desired function
  • the altered stitch is displayed on screen
  • a single stitch can be combined with several functions

Deleting Functions

• press the external «clr» button or delete special functions individually by touching the corresponding functions on the screen

Mirroring Decorative Stitches

• touch the Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right) function

  • the stitch is mirrored left/right

• touch the Vertical Mirror Image (up/down) function

  • the stitch is mirrored in the sewing direction, up/down

• touch both Mirror functions simultaneously

  • the stitch is mirrored vertically and horizontally

Decorative Stitches – Applications 77

Altering Decorative Stitches With Long Stitch Function (1)

❖ press the Long Stitch function

• the sewing computer will sew every alternate stitch
• the completely changed stitch will be displayed on the screen

Stretching Decorative Stitches With Pattern Extend Function (2)

❖ touch the Pattern Extend function once or more

• the selected stitch is extended (i.e. stretched) two- to fivefold
• some stitches have limited extension capability, and thus cannot be stretched to 3 to 5 times their previous size

Sewing With a Double, Triple or Wing Needle (3)

❖ on inserting the specialty needle activate the Security Program

• for more details on Security Program see page 32 ••••••••

• when selecting the stitch, the stitch width is automatically limited according to the needle chosen

• the best effects are achieved with simple stitches

Balance (4)

• use the Balance function for various effects (stitch variations)

• for more details on the Balance function see page 177-178 •••••

Add «Pattern End»/«Pattern Repeat»

❖ touch the Pattern End button on head frame: the sewing computer will stop at the end of an individual stitch or the active stitch in a combination ❖ touch the Pattern Repeat 1-9x function on the screen: the sewing computer will stop on completion of the number of single repeats entered

78 Decorative Stitches – Applications

Practical and Decorative Stitches in the Combi Mode

Stitch: Decorative and Practical stitches 9mm Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, decorative Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open embroidery foot No. 20C

• select «Combi Mode»
• the Combi Mode opens, and is ready to create stitch combinations

Note: Most of the practical and decorative stitches can be combined, except for the following special programs: Securing program No. 324 Securing stitch No. 5 Basting No. 21 Darning No. 22 and No. 23 Bartacks No. 24 and No. 25 Fly stitches No. 26 and No. 27 Stitches in the buttonhole category Nos. 51 - 63

Combining Practical and Decorative Stitches

• select desired stitch

• stitch appears in the stitch display

• select another stitch

• continue in this way until the desired stitch combination is completed

• Preview of Combination see page 156

Example of a Stitch Combination

• Machine Embellishment stitches: touch stitch No. 655 once
• open Practical Stitches window and touch Straight stitch No. 1 once
• open Decorative Stitches window and touch stitch No. 606 in Machine Embellishment stitches once
• open Practical Stitches window and touch Straight stitch No. 1 once
• the stitches alternate continuously as you sew

Decorative Stitches – Applications 79

Example of a Stitch and Function Combination

• touch stitch No. 656 once
• touch stitch No. 656 again and activate Vertical Mirror Image function to mirror the stitch in the sewing direction
• the stitch is mirrored in the sewing direction
• the stitches alternate in their original and mirrored form as you sew

Stitch Combination as Single or Multiple Repeat

• create stitch combination
• touch «Pattern Repeat 1 - 9» one or more times (the corresponding number from 1 - 9 appears)
• sewing computer will stop automatically at the end of the programmed number of stitch combination repeats

Correcting a Combination

Inserting Stitches

• stitches are always inserted above the cursor
• to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor upwards, using the scroll arrow
• activate desired place = select desired stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to the stitch
• select new stitch
• stitch is inserted above the cursor

Deleting Stitches

• stitches are always deleted above the cursor
• activate desired place by selecting desired stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to the stitch
• touch «Delete»
• stitch is deleted

• «Saving Combinations» see page 154 ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

TIP Mirroring complete combination left/right

• touch Multifunction button
• touch «Mirror Combination»
• the complete combination is mirrored left/right

TIP Add Securing function (4 small securing stitches)

There are various options for automatically securing stitches:

1. touch «Securing» before beginning to sew: securing stitches are stitched at beginning of stitch combination
2. touch «Securing» at end of the stitching: securing stitches are stitched at end of stitch combination
3. programming a function within a stitch combination: the desired stitches are secured accordingly

80 Decorative Stitches – Applications

Cross Stitches

Stitch: Cross stitches No. 301 - 314
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric
Thread: cotton, decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open embroidery foot No. 20C

• cross stitching is a traditional technique, and extends the range of decorative stitches
• if the cross stitches are sewn on fabric with a linen texture, they acquire a hand-stitched effect and look like hand-stitched cross stitching

Application

• for home furnishings
• for trimmings on garments
• for embellishing in general

Sewing

• Cross stitches Nos. 301 - 314 can be stitched and combined like any other decorative stitches

Sewing Trims

• select cross stitch
• stitch a row, using the seam guide or slide-on table seam guide
• it is important to stitch the first row in a straight line, as it will serve as a reference for the rows that follow
• select a new stitch
• stitch a second row next to first at a distance of one presser foot's width, or using the seam guide
• repeat for the following rows of stitching

TIP

Use cotton embroidery thread for cross stitching
Stitch appears fuller.

Decorative Stitches – Applications 81

Heirloom Techniques / Sewing Lace

Heirloom Sewing

• is one of the oldest and most traditional needlework techniques
• embellishments such as lace of a matching shade are sewn on white cotton or linen to be used in making home furnishings and garments
• heirloom embroidery includes - among others - techniques like hemstitching, attaching and inserting lace, padded satin scallops

Attaching and Inserting Lace

Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or decorative Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Edge stitch foot No.10C (special accessory)

Preparation

❖ use the same color thread as the lace

• lace which has been spray-starched before stitching is easier to use

Attaching Lace to Fabric

❖ place lace on right side of the fabric, edges overlapping at least 3/8" (1cm) (= seam allowance) and pin

• lace header lies on the fabric ❖ use Straight stitch No. 1 to attach lace ❖ press seam allowance back to wrong side of fabric ❖ from the right side, use a narrow zig-zag (stitch width approx. 11/2 - 21/2, length approx. 1/2) to sew on lace. Stitch along the edge of the lace so that the stitches enclose the edge ❖ trim excess fabric on wrong side

Attaching Lace to Lace

❖ place pieces of lace next to each other (edges touching exactly) ❖ use a fine zig-zag stitch (stitch width approx. 11/2 - 2, length approx. 1/2) to sew the pieces of lace together. The needle swing should alternately catch the two lace edges. Use the Edge stitch foot No. 10

Inserting Lace into Fabric

❖ pin or baste lace onto fabric. Use Straight stitch No. 1 to stitch along both edges ❖ carefully slit open the fabric in the center between the seam lines ❖ press the seam allowances back to the wrong side of the fabric ❖ from the right side of the fabric, use a fine zig-zag (stitch width approx. 11/2- 2, length approx. 1/2) along both lace edges to enclose them ❖ trim excess fabric on wrong side

Entredeux

Attaching Entredeux to Fabric

❖ place Entredeux on fabric, right sides together, raw edges together ❖ stitch Entredeux to fabric using straight stitch, Edge stitch foot No. 10 (special accessory), guiding the guide in center of foot along seam allowance bead in Entredeux ❖ trim seam allowance to 1/8"(3mm) ❖ overcast raw edge of Entredeux/fabric seam with a narrow zig-zag stitch (stitch No. 2, stitch width 2mm, stitch length 1.5mm)

Attaching Entredeux to Lace, etc.

❖ trim away seam allowance of Entredeux along one bead only ❖ follow technique lace to lace as described above

82 Decorative Stitches – Applications

Heirloom Techniques / Hemstitching

Stitch: Hemstitch Nos. 701, 702, 709 - 711, 713, 720, 721, 723, 725, 726, 732, 742 Needle: Wing needle, Double wing needle Thread: cotton or decorative Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open Embroidery foot No. 20C

Hemstitches

• use the wing needle to achieve excellent open effects easily
• loosely woven, light- to mediumweight woven fabrics in which the penetrating needle can easily push the threads apart are especially suitable for hemstitching
• for home furnishings and garments

Preparation

❖ use fusible stabilizer on wrong side of fabric to reinforce it

• depending on fabric and required effect, use more than one layer of stabilizer ❖ insert wing needle or double wing needle and activate appropriate needle limitation in Security Program

• for more details on Security Program see page 32 •••••••••••

Using the Wing Needle (1)

• the «normal» wing needle can be used for any hemstitching ❖ select a hemstitch and sew

Using the Double Wing Needle (2)

• the wing-needle part of the special double needle creates a hole effect, while the universal-needle part creates a normal straight stitch effect ❖ select desired stitch (e.g. Triple zig-zag No.7) and stitch first row ❖ turn fabric and stitch second row. The needle should penetrate the holes of the first row

Pulling Threads Out (3)

❖ for an even more pronounced hand-stitched effect, withdraw threads of the fabric before starting to hemstitch ❖ you may wish to spray-starch the fabric and press carefully before beginning stitching ❖ the hemstitches are sewn next to the «gaps» left by the withdrawn threads

• to fagot the threads, the needle must alternately penetrate the fabric and the gap or ditch created by withdrawing the threads

Decorative Stitches – Applications 83

Heirloom Techniques / Pintucks

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: Double needle 1-4mm, depending on the Pintuck presser foot used and the fabric
Thread: cotton or decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Pintuck feet No. 30 (3 grooves), No. 31 (5 grooves), No. 32 (7 grooves), or No. 33 (9 grooves)
(all the feet are special accessories)

Stitching Pintucks

• this technique reduces the size of the fabric area (allow for enough fabric)
• pintucks are narrow stitched folds which are normally sewn on the fabric before cutting out the pieces for garments or other sewing projects
• for embellishing, or in combination with other heirloom embroidery techniques

Note:

Sewing pintucks on fabric causes fabric width to reduce. Allow extra fabric for this technique.

Pintuck Presser Feet

• No. 30 (3 grooves) = 4mm double needle: for heavyweight fabrics
• No. 31 (5 grooves) = 3mm double needle: for medium- to heavyweight fabrics
• No. 32 (7 grooves) = 2mm double needle: for light- to mediumweight fabrics
• No. 33 (9 grooves) = 1 or 1.6mm double needle: for very light fabrics (uncorded pintucks)

Corded Pintucks

• pintucks may be sewn with or without cord
• cord pintucks for a raised effect and texture
• choose a cord that fits well into the grooves of the selected pintuck foot
• the cord must be colorfast and shrinkproof

84 Decorative Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Inserting the Cord (gimp cord)

• remove stitch plate from sewing computer (see page 17)

• open bobbin cover

• thread cord from underneath plate through the bobbin area and the hole in stitch plate

• replace stitch plate

• close bobbin cover

  • the cord should feed freely - guide it through the small opening in the bobbin cover

• place the cord spool on the arm of the free hand system (presser foot lifter)

• check that the cord runs smoothly

Threading the Needle

• insert double needle
• activate the double needle limitation (corresponding to needle size used) in the Security Program

for more details on Security Program see page 32

• thread both needles

for more details on Threading the Double Needle see page 16

Stitching the Pintucks

• stitch first tuck - you may want to mark the line first
  • the filler cord will automatically feed into the pintuck
• turn work if required
• place first pintuck in one of the side grooves in the presser foot (depending on the desired distance)
• stitch second pintuck
  • stitch additional pintucks parallel to these two

Decorative Stitches – Applications 85

Stitching Corners

• with a double needle the fabric cannot simply be pivoted at corners. Corners must therefore be sewn in several steps:
  • with the double needle in the fabric, turn the handwheel until the needles are just above the fabric (the eye appears, but the point is still in the fabric)
  • pivot the fabric halfway into the corner (45°), make one stitch, bring the needle back to the same position (just above the fabric)
  • pivot the fabric another 45° and continue stitching
• for a pointed corner, simply repeat the steps until the desired angle is reached

Shaped Pintucks

• in addition to straight lines, pintucks may also be stitched in wavy lines as desired

Combining Decorative Stitches and Pintucks

• if you wish to place rows of decorative stitching directly between pintucks, use Reverse pattern foot No. 1C to stitch them before sewing the pintucks
• use a removable stabilizer under the work and remove it after the decorative stitching is completed
• stitch pintucks on the left and right of the decorative stitching as required and as described above

Seam guide

Use the seam guide for evenly spaced pintucks, especially for more widely spaced ones.

86 Decorative Stitches – Applications

Heirloom Techniques / Scallops Off the Edge

Stitch: Padded satin stitch No. 416
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Open embroidery foot No. 20C or Embroidery foot No. 6 (special accessory)

Padded Satin Scallops

• an «airy» finish for any finished edge
• for garments, table and bed linens

Preparation

• to create padded satin scallops «in the air», i.e. off the edge, place watersoluble or tear-away stabilizer under the fabric, allowing to protrude clearly at the edge
• pin or baste stabilizer to fabric
• place filler cord spool (e.g. Perle cotton No. 8) on FHS lifter
• the filler cord, which stabilizes the scallops, should be the same color as the thread used to make the scallops, as well as be colorfast and shrinkproof
• thread the filler cord from underneath the stitch plate through the hole in the stitch plate

• for more information on Inserting Gimp Cord see page 85 •••••••••••••

Stitching

• stitch the first row of scallops
• the scallops always begin and end on the fabric edge, with the curve being stitched on the stabilizer
• if the scallops do not begin and end on the fabric, they will not be attached to it
• add 2 to 3 more rows of scallops as desired
• with additional rows, the scallop begins and ends in each case in the middle of the scallop of the previous row
• if the scallop stitch does not begin or end in the middle of the scallop of the previous row, the rows will not hold together
• carefully remove the stabilizer on completion of the stitching

TIP

Perfect sewing results

As the padded satin scallop off the edge technique requires some practice, always sew a test.

Decorative Stitches – Applications 87

Heirloom Techniques / Corded Scallops

Stitch: Satin scallop stitch No. 507, 508
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or decorative
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40C, and Open Embroidery foot No. 20C, or Embroidery foot No. 6 (special accessory)

Corded Scallops

• a decorative edge finish for garments and table and bed linens

Pre-stitching

• place stabilizer under fabric edge
• with foot No. 40C, stitch a row of satin scallops approx. 3/8" (1cm) from the edge, using the seam guide or slide-on table seam guide to help you stitch straight

Trim Fabric

• once all the satin scallops are completed, carefully trim excess fabric

Overstitching Corded Scallops

• insert presser foot No. 20C, and place filler cord spool (e.g. Perle cotton No. 8) on the FHS lifter
• the filler cord, which stabilizes the scallops, must be the same color as the thread used to make the scallops, as well as colorfast and shrinkproof
• use Zig-zag stitch No. 2 (stitch width approx. 5, length approx. 1/2 - 1) to overstitch the scallops, guiding the filler cord along the stitching
• the needle swing will alternately penetrate the scallop stitching and the fabric just next to the cord
• slightly narrow the stitch width at the end of each scallop. Sew last few stitches to end of scallop, turn fabric slightly (with the needle down), then sew a few stitches, and widen stitch width again to sew the broad part of the scallop

Corded scallops

Pre-stitching corded scallops

Overstitching corded scallops

TIP

Simplified overstitching of the scallops

• reduce sewing speed when overstitching corded scallops (using Motor Speed function)
• activate the Needle Stop Down function which is a big help when overstitching

TIP

Reinforced Satin Scalloped Edge Use double cord.

88 Decorative Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Sideways Motion Stitches

In General

Sideways Motion Stitches

• sideways motion stitches are large stitches which are sewn with the fabric being fed sideways, as well as forwards and backwards
• touch desired stitch to activate it
• sideways motion stitches are depicted with 4 arrows in the Stitch Altering Area
• start (green point) and end (read cross) are visible in the Stitch Altering Area

• with some individual stitches (e.g. Single motif No. 218), the sewing computer stops automatically
• other stitches (e.g. No. 808) can be stitched continuously

Templates as Sewing Aid

• the templates enclosed with the owner's manual help to position the stitches on the fabric
• all sideways motion stitches are printed in their original size on the template
• the starting point of the individual stitches is marked with a circle, the end with a cross. The beginning and end are also provided with a hole (so that they can be accurately marked on the fabric)
• the starting and end are also shown on screen, once the stitch is selected, in the Stitch Altering Area
• the sewing direction is indicated by a presser foot symbol and thin guide lines
• the presser foot must always run parallel to the guide lines
• place the template on the fabric to mark the starting point of the desired stitch

Decorative stitches – Applications 89

Sewing Sideways Motion Stitches

• use the slide-on table to enlarge sewing area
• insert needle at starting point (pay attention to sewing direction on template)
• position fabric so that guide lines on template run parallel to presser foot, then remove template
• stitch: the sewing computer will stitch the selected stitch
  • make sure that the fabric feeds freely and evenly - it must not be inhibited (must not bump into anything, or drag)
  • it is important to let the sewing computer stitch without «helping» it by pushing, pulling or holding the fabric back
  • before starting to stitch, it might be helpful to draw a line on the fabric in the same direction as the template lines to serve as a guide for parallel stitching

Combining Sideways Motion Stitches and Functions

• sideways motion stitches can be combined with all functions active on the screen (e.g. «Mirror Image»)
• the size of most sideways motion stitches cannot be altered (noticeable by different color of Stitch Width and Stitch Length Indication)

Balance

• depending on type of fabric, stabilizer and thread quality, the stitches may differ slightly from the original
• use the Balance function to match the selected stitch to the fabric used

• for more information on Balance see page 178 •••••••••••••••

TIP Test sewing It is always a good idea to test sew with the materials you intend to use - fabric, stabilizer, and threads.

90 Decorative stitches – Applications