Bernina 200E owner's manual: Simple Menu Selection

Changing Basic Settings ❖ alter the stitch width and length settings using the external knobs ❖ alter the needle position with the external buttons ❖ touch Stitch Altering Area (light blue) • a special screen opens ❖ touch «Save Settings» = all changes are saved ❖ touch «Reset Settings» to return to basic settings ❖ touch «ESC» and the screen closes without anything being saved or altered

• for more information on the lower two bars see Personal Program on page 152 ••••••••••••••••

Stitch Selection

Stitches can be selected using one of the two methods listed below.

Note: If an unavailable number is entered, the following message will appear: This number is not available in the sewing computer.

Direct Selection by Scrolling up/down Within a Stitch Category ❖ touch the arrow (down) • scroll the screen to view all stitches in selected category • the top row disappears • the next two rows move up • a new row appears at the bottom ❖ touch the arrow (up) • the first row of stitches appears again • the Scroll function (up/down) is used to find and view all the sewing computer’s stitches • use when a visual search for a particular stitch is needed • when the desired stitch is located, touch to select

Selecting a Stitch by Number ❖ touch the function «0–9» • the screen changes to a numeric pad ❖ touch numbers to select the stitch of your choice • the number of the selected stitch appears in the upper screen

Correcting Mistakes ❖ to correct mistakes or deselect, touch function top right (arrow) • the number is deleted from right to left ❖ touch the field above the numeric pad • the entire number is deleted ❖ enter new number

Confirm and Go to Next Screen ❖ touch «OK» to confirm • the screen displays the selected stitch • the selected stitch is active (highlighted in blue)

Back to Previous Screen ❖ touch «ESC» • the previous screen appears • if the selection was not confirmed by touching «OK», the stitch selected by number will be ignored

The Sewing Computer – Screen Display 25

Simple Menu Selection

Main Category Buttons

• press a button to select the desired menu
• the first stitch, stitch program or stitch summary appear on the screen

Practical Stitches

Practical Stitch Button

• the Practical Stitch menu appears
• 15 practical stitches appear on the screen
• use arrows to scroll for viewing additional stitches

Decorative Stitches 16/4 Directions

Decorative Stitch Button, 16/4 Directions

• the Decorative Stitch menu appears
• 6 categories appear on screen
• use arrows to scroll for viewing additional groups
• different stitch types and sizes can be selected
• sideways motion stitches are indicated with 4 arrows
• touch to select the desired stitch group
• the selected stitch group appears

Alphabets

Alphabet Button

• the Alphabet menu appears on the screen
• touch to select the alphabet of your choice

Buttonholes

Buttonhole Button

• the Buttonhole menu appears on the screen, including the eyelet and button sew-on programs

26 The Sewing Computer – Screen Display

Quilting

Quilt Stitch Button

• the Quilt Stitch screen appears
  • touch to select
• 15 quilt stitches are visible on screen
• use arrows to scroll for additional stitches

Personal Program

Personal Program Button

• Personal screen appears (customized settings)

Embroidery Mode / Sewing Mode

Embroidery Mode / Sewing Mode Button

• change between Embroidery and Sewing Mode and vice versa

Setup Program

Setup Program

• press the external Setup button
• options appear
• use Setup to customize your sewing computer's settings
• customized settings can be reprogrammed at any time or reset to BERNINA factory settings

The Sewing Computer – Screen Display 27

External Function Buttons

Altering Needle Position ❖ press the left or right Needle Position button

• the needle moves to the right or left as selected ❖ keep button pressed to quickly change needle positions
• total of 11 needle positions: 5 left, 5 right, and 1 center

Setup Button ❖ press Setup

• options with alteration possibilities appear ❖ touch one of the buttons
• the desired alterations can be made
• alterations remain even after the sewing computer is turned off («0»)
• customized settings can be cancelled or reprogrammed at any time

Tutorial ❖ press the Tutorial button

• brief operating instructions, advice on fabric, needle or techniques, etc. appear

External Functions

Creative Consultant ❖ press the Creative Consultant button

• advice on fabric, needle or techniques, etc.

• for more information on Creative Consultant see pages 175-176

«clr» (Clear) Button ❖ press the «clr» button

• stitch length, width and needle position are returned to basic settings
• all active functions will be deleted Exception: Safety functions (needle stop position, Security Program and motor speed)

Favorite Function Button

• this button can be individually programmed in Setup with functions displayed

• the programmed function is shown with an «F» in the display

• selected function can be cancelled and reprogrammed at any time with another function

• for more information on the Favorite Function Button see page 166

Automatic Thread Cutter ❖ press external button

• upper and bobbin thread are cut automatically

Quick Reverse Button on Head Frame ❖ press the Quick Reverse button on head frame

• secure the seam beginning and end: sews in reverse as long as button is depressed
• used to program buttonhole length
• used to program darning length
• used to designate end of stitching in straight stitch Securing stitch No. 5
• used to start/stop stitching with the embroidery module (special accessory)

Pattern End (on head frame) ❖ press the Pattern End button

• sewing computer stops at the end of the active single pattern or the active pattern of a combination

28 The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions

General Functions

The following functions are found on various screens and programs of the artista 200 sewing computer. They are consistently used in the same manner for specific tasks when accessing and moving between different programs.

On-screen Functions

Single Mode

• the Single Mode is always active (blue) when turning on the sewing computer and only the selected stitch can be sewn

Combi Mode ❖ touch symbol

• the Combi Mode is active (blue) and stitch combinations can be programmed

Scroll Up ❖ touch symbol one or more times

• stitches within a stitch category scroll up to show more options
• touch the symbol continuously to scroll quickly

Scroll Down ❖ touch symbol one or more times

• stitches within a stitch category scroll down to show more options
• touch the symbol continuously to scroll quickly

?» (Help) ❖ touch Help ❖ touch a stitch or a function

• a description of the selected stitch or function appears ❖ close with «ESC»

Note: If you press the question mark the machine is «locked». If you touch the screen (anywhere) the machine will sew again.

Closing Special Applications ❖ touch «ESC»

• the special application closes
• returns to previous screen

OK ❖ touch symbol

• adjustment/selection is activated or confirmed, e.g. stitch selection by number
• programmed adjustment/selection is ready to sew

The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions 29

Special Functions

The following functions are found on the artista 200 sewing computer. Each function which can be used in the selected program is either shown in the yellow part of the screen or on the two bottom rows of the gray part of the screen.

Note: The 0-9 function button (Stitch Selection by Number) as well as the History function button (the 15 last selected stitches) are always visible on the screen.

Presser Foot Indicator

• the recommended presser foot for the selected stitch is displayed by number
  • touch symbol
• a screen will appear with further presser foot options
• if the presser foot is raised it is indicated with an arrow

Indication of the Altered Stitch Width or Stitch Length

• return to basic setting by touching the stitch width/stitch length bar

Long Stitch

• touch symbol
• sewing computer sews every second stitch (max. stitch length 10mm)
• can be activated for all practical, decorative, and directional stitches except buttonholes and sideways motion stitches
• functions and stitches can be combined
• can be programmed in Combi Mode and saved in File Drawers

Applications:

• combine with straight stitch to baste
• combine with triple straight stitch for topstitching

Pattern Extend 2–5 x

• touch one or more times
• the numbers 2–5 appear depending on the type of stitch selected
• the length of selected stitch will be increased by 2–5 times
• stitch integrity is maintained
• lengthened stitches can be programmed in Combi Mode
• touch the symbol longer and the function is turned off. The symbol is inactive (yellow)

Applications:

• lengthen existing stitches without affecting the stitch density
• combine stitches

Pattern Begin

• the symbol is automatically highlighted in blue (= active), when a stitch is selected
• after beginning to sew the symbol is turned off (inactive, yellow)
  • touch symbol
• the needle moves to the beginning of a stitch or stitch program

Applications:

• decorative stitches, buttonholes, working in Combi Mode

Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)

• touch symbol
• sewing computer sews selected stitch in Vertical Mirror Image (left/right – determined by the sewing direction)
• can be programmed in Combi Mode and saved in File Drawers

Applications:

• blindstitch for shell edging
• decorative stitching
• stitch combinations

Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)

• touch symbol
• sewing computer sews selected stitch in Horizontal Mirror Image (up/down – determined by the sewing direction)
• can be programmed in Combi Mode and saved in File Drawers

Applications:

• decorative stitching
• stitch combinations

30 The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions

Stitch Counter

• touch symbol
• when the desired length is reached (e.g. first buttonhole bead or straight stitch), press the external Quick Reverse button
  • the display (or indicator) changes to «auto» (for the buttonhole, only after length of second bead is determined by pressing the Quick Reverse button)
  • the selected stitch is programmed (temporarily)

Save

• touch symbol
• saves stitch combinations and letters

Delete

• touch symbol
• deletes individual stitches or letters above the cursor
• deletes stitch combinations
• deletes "Drawers" content

Combination Sub-divider (1)

• touch symbol
• each combination can be sub-divided into several parts
• each combination part is totally independent of one another

Combination Sub-divider (2)

• touch symbol
• each combination can be sub-divided as desired
• after stop press the foot control and the next part is sewn

Alphabet Size

• when an alphabet is selected the size is 9mm (field with 1 is blue)
• touch symbol
• size will be reduced to 6mm (field with 2 is blue)

Monogram Size

• when a monogram is selected the size is 30mm (field with 1 is blue)
• touch symbol once or twice
• the blue field shows the selected size:
  • 1 = 30mm (standard)
  • 2 = 20mm
  • 3 = 15mm

Multifunction Button

(only available in Combi Mode)

• touch symbol
• a special screen with further functions opens:
  • Delete Combination
  • Save Combination
  • Mirror Combination
  • Preview

Direct Entry Length (in mm) or On-screen Button Measurement

• touch symbol
• buttonhole length (number in mm) can be entered directly by the stitch width knob
• for measuring the button, hold button to bottom lower left corner of screen and enter button length = adjust blue circle to button size using stitch width knob
• 2mm for the button thickness will be added automatically (with button measurement only)

Programming Buttonhole Length

• symbol is automatically highlighted in blue (= active) when a buttonhole is selected
• using the Quick Reverse button on head frame a buttonhole length can be determined directly
• when the buttonhole is programmed the symbol is turned off (inactive, yellow)
• if a new length is to be programmed the symbol has to be re-selected

Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes

• touch symbol
• a special screen appears
• sew manual buttonhole in 4 or 6 steps (according to buttonhole type)

Needle Stop Adjustment

• touch the needle stop symbol
• arrow points down on screen (field is highlighted in blue)
• the sewing computer always stops with the needle down
• touch symbol again = needle stop reverts to up

Upper Case / Lower Case

• Upper Case is activated when Alphabet is selected
• touch symbol
• Lower Case is activated

The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions 31

Securing Function (with 4 stitches)

• touch symbol before starting to sew = individual stitches or stitch combination will be secured at the beginning
• touch symbol during sewing individual stitches = individual stitches will be secured at the end, the sewing computer continues sewing
• touch symbol at the end of an individual stitch or stitch combination = the stitch or stitch combination will be secured
• programming the function within a stitch combination = each individual stitch of the stitch combination can be secured at the beginning or at the end

Applications:

• sewing individual decorative stitches
• sewing individual letters
• sewing stitch combinations and words

Thread Tension

• touch symbol
• the Thread Tension screen appears
• the Thread Tension can be altered
• the selected setting is visible in the field

Pattern Repeat 1–9 x

• by touching the symbol several times the numbers 1-9 appear
• 1 = sewing computer stops at the end of an individual stitch or stitch combination
• 2–9 = sewing computer stops at the end of a stitch or stitch combination after the number of repeats selected
• touch the symbol longer and the function is turned off. The symbol is inactive (gray)

Applications:

• sewing individual motifs
• combine with practical and decorative stitches
• in combination with 4-directional sewing

Balance

• touch symbol
• Balance screen appears
• balance forwards and reverse stitches
• balance sideways motion stitches

Applications:

• adapting practical and decorative stitches to various types of fabrics (e.g. Honeycomb stitch)
• altering decorative stitches for a new look
• balancing buttonholes to different fabrics
• balancing sideways motion stitches to different fabrics

Motor Speed 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4

• touch symbol one or more times to select the desired speed
• selected speed is displayed
• reduces or increases the speed with the foot control fully depressed
• touch the symbol longer and the default speed (4/4) is set again

Applications:

• adjust speed for decorative sewing computer work such as freehand embroidery or freehand quilting and when more control is desired for the sewing task
• reduce speed when children are sewing

Security Program

• touch symbol
• a special screen appears
• by selecting the respective needle symbol the stitch width will be limited automatically
• this prevents the inserted special needle (double needle, etc.) from hitting the presser foot or the stitch plate = avoiding needle breakage
• the numbers represent the distance in mm between the needles of the double and triple needle
• by selecting the respective stitch plate icon the stitch width is limited automatically so that the inserted standard needle cannot hit the stitch plate
• once a feature is active the symbol turns red
• selected functions remain active even after sewing computer is turned off («0»)/on
• touch «OK» to activate selected Security Program function
• Security Program functions must be removed within Security Program by selecting desired needle and stitch plate

Applications:

• to stitch pintucks and for hemstitching
• hemming knits
• decorative stitches
• sewing special fabrics

32 The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions

Continuous Reverse Sewing ❖ touch symbol • sews the selected stitch in reverse

Applications: • darning with straight or running stitch • decorative stitching on sleeves or trouser legs • quilting

Stitch Selection by Number ❖ touch symbol • special screen appears • select individual stitch by touching the appropriate number combination ❖ touch «OK» to confirm selection and bring stitch into SAA

Applications: • easy selection of individual stitch • easy selection for stitch combination in Combi Mode

History ❖ touch symbol • the last maximum 15 sewn stitches appear on a separate screen • a stitch already contained in the History screen will be overwritten when sewing restarts • same stitches with different settings have to be saved in the Personal Program ❖ select desired stitch = stitch appears in Stitch Altering Area • sewn stitches remain in History even after sewing computer is turned off («0»)/on

File Drawers ❖ touch symbol • the Drawers screen appears

Bobbin Thread Length • when the Bobbin Thread Length runs low the sewing computer stops and the following message appears: «Please check lower thread» • as long as the message is visible, the lower thread control is turned off and sewing can continue • if the message is closed with «OK» the lower thread control is active again

myartista Portal ❖ connect the Modem ❖ touch symbol ❖ confirm first message with «Yes» and second message with «OK» • the connection to the myartista Portal site is made

Lowered Feed Dog • if the feed dog is lowered this symbol appears underneath the Presser Foot Indicator

The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions 33

Thread Tension

Basic tension settings apply automatically when a stitch or program is selected.

The tension is factory set for best possible sewing results using a 100 weight, 2 ply polyester thread (100/2).

The tension may vary when using other types of thread such as embroidery thread, and it may be necessary to adjust tension to suit the fabric and stitch type.

Thread Tension

❖ touch symbol

Altering the Tension

• the perfect stitch formation is shown on the left side of the screen (stitch formation in the fabric)
• the basic value is indicated by the bar on the scale (in blue) ❖ turn stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or right = the thread tension is loosened or tightened
• the tension alteration is indicated on the left side of the tension scale
• tighter upper thread tension (= the upper thread is tightened which pulls the lower thread more to the right side of the fabric)
• loosen upper thread tension (= the upper thread is loosened which pulls the upper thread more to the wrong side of the fabric)
• the tension alteration affects only the selected stitch and will be deleted with «clr» and does not remain saved when turning the sewing computer off («0»)
• the alteration is indicated on the scale and on the function button on screen
• the basic value stays visible (in black) when a change is made

Save and Close

❖ touch «OK»

• the alteration is saved, the screen display changes

Back to Basic Settings

❖ touch «Reset» to return tensions to the basic setting ❖ touch «OK» to confirm

No Adjustments

❖ touch «ESC»

• the existing thread tension is not changed

34 The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions

Summary Practical Stitches 36 In General 38 Temporary Altered Stitch Memory 39 Long Stitch Function 40 Straight Stitches 41 • Straight stitch No. 1 • Securing stitch No.5 • Edgestitching • Zippers • Triple straight stitch • Basting stitch

Zig-zag Stitch 50 • Zig-zag No. 2 • Zig-zag seam • Triple Zig-zag

Blind Hem 52 Sewing Knit Fabrics 53 • Notes and tips for sewing knit fabrics • Honeycomb stitch No. 8 • Vari-overlock No. 3 • Double overlock No. 10 • Super stretch No. 11 • Stretch overlock No.13 • Visible hem stitch with Jersey stitch No. 14 • Ribbing with Vari-overlock No. 3 • Hem with double needle • Ribbing

Reinforcing Edges 62 Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord 63 Darning, Repairing 67 • Automatic darning • Manual darning • Patching knits and jersey

Freehand Embroidery 70 Bartack Programs 71 • Bartack • Fly stitch

Practical Stitches

Summary Stitches

Summary

Application of Practical Stitches

1. Straight stitch All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work

2. Zig-zag Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag applications such as oversewing fine fabrics, attaching elastic, lace and appliqué

3. Vari-overlock Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams, hems and stretch seams

4. Running stitch Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams

5. Securing stitch (straight stitch) All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn with straight stitch

6. Triple straight stitch Reinforced seams in firm, heavy fabrics, topstitching and visible seams

7. Triple zig-zag Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and seams, decorative stitching, couching

8. Honeycomb stitch Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics, visible seams, hems, linens and some types of mending

9. Blindstitch Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams

10. Double overlock All types of knit. Sews and finishes the edges in one operation

36 Practical Stitches – Summary

11 Super stretch Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics, such as Lycra

20 Knit overlock All knits, machine or handmade, overlock seam. Sews and finishes edges in one operation

12 Gathering stitch Most types of fabric. Gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams (edge to edge) and decorative stitching

21 Basting Basting seams, hems, etc.

13 Stretch overlock Mediumweight knits, toweling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams

22 Simple darning program Automatic darning in fine and mediumweight fabrics

14 Jersey stitch Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and delicate knits. Visible seams and hems. Mending jersey/interlock

23 Reinforced darning program Automatic darning in heavyweight fabrics

15 Universal stitch Firm fabrics such as felt and leather. Flat joining seams, visible seams, attaching elastic, decorative seams

24 Bartack program Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops, etc.

16 Sewn-out zig-zag Oversewing woven fabrics, reinforcing edges, attaching elastic, decorative seaming

25 Bartack program Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops, securing zippers

17 Lycra stitch All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining seams and hems, reinforced seaming on underwear

26 Fly stitch large Medium- to heavyweight fabrics, reinforcing pocket edges, zippers and openings

18 Stretch stitch All stretch fabrics, open seam in sportswear

27 Fly stitch small Fine to mediumweight fabrics, reinforcing pocket edges, zippers and openings

19 Reinforced overlock Medium-to heavyweight knits and toweling, overlock seams, flat joining seams

29 Blindstitch narrow Blind hems on fine fabrics

Practical Stitches – Summary 37

In General

Adjusting Individual Practical Stitches

Depending on the fabric and application an alteration of the basic settings may be necessary.

Altering Stitch Width and Stitch Length

• depending on the fabric it may be necessary that the stitch width or the stitch length is altered
• can be altered while sewing
• use stitch width or stitch length knob to make alteration

Changing the Needle Position

• press external Needle Position buttons to change the needle position, so stitching can be placed exactly where it is required
• there are a total of 11 needle positions (5 left, 5 right, and 1 center)
• keep button pressed to change needle positions quickly

Securing With Quick Reverse Button (on Head Frame)

• secures the seam beginning and end
• press the Quick Reverse button and the sewing computer sews in reverse
• release the Quick Reverse button and the sewing computer sews forwards

Practical Stitch Seams

Open Seams Seams which are pressed open

• seam allowance width as wide as required
• seam lies flat
• seam does not stretch Suggested stitches:
• straight, narrow zig-zag, super stretch, and triple zig-zag Application:
• primarily for woven fabrics
• works for most types of sewing projects, including clothing, home accessories, and crafts

Closed Seams (Overlock Seams) Seams which cannot be pressed open

• sewn and finished in one operation
• narrow seam allowances Suggested stitches:
• vari-overlock, double overlock and jersey Application:
• primarily for knits and jerseys
• excellent for knit clothing, lingerie, and bed linens

Flat Joining Seams Seams where the edges are overlapped and then sewn

• stitching is on the seam allowances Suggested stitch:
• stretch-overlock Application:
• particularly good for toweling and Lycra
• also good for beachwear, leisure wear, and lingerie

38 Practical Stitches – Summary

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Stitch:

any selected stitch

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

• « stitch length, stitch width, needle position, etc. are automatically saved
• « by altering the stitch width and stitch length, all stitches can suit both the fabric and sewing
• « the Temporary Altered Stitch Memory is particularly useful when alternating between two applications, such as overcasting and seaming edges or straight stitch and zig-zag as in heirloom sewing
• « the stitches can be changed as needed
• « when changing back to the altered stitch, the previous individually altered setting will stay saved

Example:

• "* select Zig-zag stitch No. 2 and alter stitch width to 9mm (e.g. overcasting an edge)

• select straight stitch and sew seam

• " overcasting another edge: select the Zig-zag stitch No. 2 again
• « the altered setting of the stitch width to 9mm stays saved

stitch memory can hold as many rations as needed (these are stitch , stitch width, Needle Position, Mirror Images, Pattern Extend, Long Stitch function, Thread Tension, Balance and Pattern Repeat function 1-9x).

Return to Basic Settings — Delete Altered Stitch Memory

• « Method 1: press the external «clr» button (active stitch in basic setting)
• « Method 2: revert to the stitch width and length by touching the stitch width/stitch length bar (or manually by turning the external knob) revert to other functions manually
• « Method 3: turn sewing computer off («0») — altered settings will not be saved

e the ai basic settings

e the stitch with altered basic settings in the Personal Program or to save the settings permanently.

Long Stitch Function

Long Stitch Function

• the sewing computer sews every second stitch (the longest stitch possible is 10mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm)
• works with the practical and decorative stitches
• for all work where a longer stitch is required
• additional alteration of stitches possible

Sewing With the Long Stitch Function

❖ select desired practical or decorative stitch ❖ select Long Stitch function. Altered stitch is then visible in the Stitch Altering Area

TIP Decorative topstitching with cordonnet thread

• for decorative topstitching the Long Stitch function can be combined with the triple straight stitch
• when sewing with a cordonnet thread use needle No. 100-110 or cordonnet needle No. 90-100

TIP Long stitch for basting The Long Stitch function in combination with the straight stitch can be used for basting.

40 Practical Stitches – Summary

Straight Stitch

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Straight Stitch

• after turning the sewing computer on, the Practical Stitch screen with the activated straight stitch appears

Applications

Application

• suitable presser foot to be selected according to the technique
• suitable for all fabrics

TIP

Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric
For example use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 - 4mm) with denim, a shorter length (2 - 2.5mm) with batiste.

TIP

Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread
For example use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 - 5mm) when sewing with ordonnet thread for topstitching.

TIP

Activate needle stop down
Prevents the fabric from slipping when you stop to adjust stitch.

Practical Stitches – Applications
41

Securing Stitch

Stitch: Securing stitch No. 5 (straight stitch)
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Securing Stitch

• for all fabrics
• secures beginning and the end of seam
• reverse stitching is exactly on top of the seam, preventing puckers

Beginning the Seam

• the sewing computer secures the seam automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse)
• the sewing computer continues straight stitching forwards

Ending the Seam

• when coming to the end of the seam, press and release the Quick Reverse button on head frame. The sewing computer will then secure the seam automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse)
• sewing computer stops automatically when securing is completed

TIP

Seaming or sewing long seams
Quicker securing at beginning and end of seam.

Edgestitching

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, polyester, cordonnet (topstitching)
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C,
Blindstitch foot No. 5 or
Edgestitch foot No. 10 (optional accessory)

Narrow Edgestitching

Needle Position

• left for outer edge
• right for inner edge (hem edges)

Presser Foot

• Blindstitch foot No. 5

Outer Edges

• place finished or folded edge of fabric against the left side of the guide on the foot
• select needle position left at desired distance from the edge

Hem Edges

• place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) against the right side of the guide on the foot
• select a needle position that places the stitching along the upper edge of the folded hem

Note:
Foot No. 5: use any left or far right needle position.
Foot No. 10: use any left or right needle position.

Practical Stitches – Applications 43

Wide Edgestitching

Needle Position

• any needle position can be used according to the width of the stitching
• different needle positions will place the stitching at various distances from the edge of the fabric

Presser Foot

• Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Guiding the Fabric

Presser foot as a guide:

• align the edge of the presser foot with the finished or folded edge of the fabric

Stitch plate as a guide:

• guide the folded edge along the marks on the stitch plate for stitching 3/8" to 1 1/8" (1cm–3cm) from the edge

Seam guide as a guide:

• insert the seam guide into the hole on the back of the presser foot shank
• adjust as desired, measuring from the needle
• tighten the screw
• guide the finished or folded edge of the fabric along the seam guide
• to sew parallel lines, guide the seam guide along a previously sewn line of stitches

Seam guide for slide-on table:

• insert into the groove (underside of table)
• position right of the presser foot in the desired distance
• guide fabric along the seam guide

TIP Edgestitching with seam guide Eliminates tedious marking when sewing parallel lines or grids.

TIP Zipper foot No. 14 (optional accessory) can be used for edgestitching when the guide on the foot is adjusted as desired.

44 Practical Stitches – Applications

Zippers

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Zipper foot No. 4
Needle position: far right or far left

Preparation

• baste seam closed and finish the seam allowance
• baste or pin zipper in place so that fabric edges meet over the center of the zipper

Sewing

• open zipper a little
• start sewing from top left
• position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge of the zipper coils
• stop in front of the pull (needle position down), raise the presser foot and close zipper again
• continue to sew to the base of the zipper (needle position down)
• turn sewing and sew across the seam (needle position down)
• turn sewing again and sew second side of the zipper from bottom to top

Variation: Sew Both Sides of Zipper from Bottom to Top

• suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain (e.g. velvet)
• prepare zipper as described above
• start sewing in the seam of the zipper end and sew first side from bottom to top
• sew the second side the same way from bottom to top

TIPS

Zipper as a decorative element

Sew a visible zipper into the fabric as a decorative element.

To sew around the zipper pull

• close the zipper and sew up to about 2" (5cm) away from the pull
• stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot. Open zipper, pulling the tab below the needle; lower presser foot and continue to sew

TIPS

Starting to sew

Hold threads firmly when starting to sew and pull the fabric gently behind the needle for a few stitches.

Zipper tape or firm fabric

For even stitch formation use a 90 – 100 needle.

Practical Stitches – Applications 45

Invisible Zipper

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: middle
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Invisible zipper foot No. 35 (optional accessory) and Open embroidery foot No. 20C
Zipper length: opening plus 1 1/2" (4cm) allowance

Invisible Zipper

• special zippers are used. When inserted they are covered by the seam, making them invisible
• is particularly elegant when used on clothing

Sewing First Half of the Zipper

• mark the seam beginning (zipper end)
• open zipper fully
• place right side of zipper on right side of fabric (the coils point away from the fabric edge)
• pin one half of the zipper and baste
• lower presser foot at the beginning of the zipper so that the zipper coils are positioned in the groove (it may be helpful to tilt the zipper coils slightly by hand)
• sew first half of the zipper from top to bottom up to the mark

46 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Sewing Second Half of the Zipper

• close zipper and pin the second half on top of the inside
• open zipper again, pin the entire length and baste
• sew from top to bottom – the zipper coils are now positioned in the other groove
• close zipper

Closing Seam

• attach Open embroidery foot No. 20C (improves overview)
• pin and baste seam
• sew seam from top to inserted zipper, staying as close as possible to the zipper
• if a small opening results, use Zipper foot No. 4 to close it (altered needle position)

TIP

Shorten zipper

Trim a zipper that is too long and secure end with Bartack program No. 25.

Practical Stitches – Applications 47

Triple Straight Stitch Seam

Stitch: Triple straight stitch No. 6
Needle: Jeans or 80-90 universal
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Jeans foot No. 8

Open Seam

• durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such as denim and corduroy
• reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard wear

TIP
For heavy layers or very densely woven fabrics:
A Jeans needle or Jeans foot No. 8 will help when sewing very heavy fabrics, such as denim or canvas.

TIP
Decorative top stitch
Lengthen out stitch and use as a decorative top stitch with denim.

48 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Basting Stitch

Stitch: Basting stitch No. 21
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Stitch length: 3.5 - 5mm
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Basting Stitch

• straight stitch, sewing every fourth stitch
  (i.e. longest stitch possible is 20mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm)
• for all work where a very long stitch is required
• quick and easy basting of seams, hems, quilts, etc.
• easy to remove

TIP

Securing a basting seam at the beginning and end
To secure basting stitches at the seam beginning and end, sew a few normal length straight stitches or select the Securing function.

TIP

Basting
Use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after the seam has been sewn.

Zig-zag Stitch

Stitch: Zig-zag stitch No. 2
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Zig-zag Stitch

• suitable for all fabrics
• overcasting
• elastic seams
• decorative sewing

Oversewing Edges

• good edge finish for most types of fabric
• guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot
• needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into the air on the other side
• do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch – the edge should lie flat and not roll
• use a fine darning thread for lightweight fabric

A Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch length
B Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch width
C Finishing the edges with zig-zag stitch

Satin Stitch

• filled-in stitch used for appliqué, embroidery, etc.
• shorten stitch length, satin stitch setting will be indicated by parallel lines on stitch length bar

Note:
The sewing computer has a programmed satin stitch: No. 354 (see page 143).

TIP
Oversewing edges
If edges roll, use the Vari-overlock stitch and foot No. 2A.

TIP
Embroidery with satin stitch
Experiment with adjusting the stitch width for new decorative effects.

50 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Visible Hem With Triple Zig-zag Stitch

Stitch: Triple Zig-zag stitch No. 7
Stitch width: 2.5 – 9mm depending on fabric
Stitch length: basic setting
Needle: universal or Jeans
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Strong Visible Seam

• for firm, densely woven fabrics, particularly good for denim and canvas

TIP

Hems on fabrics which may ravel
Finish the raw edge of the hem; do not trim them after sewing.

TIP

Sewing firm fabrics
Use a Jeans needle for better penetration.

Practical Stitches – Applications
51

Blind Hem

Stitch: Blindstitch wide No. 9, Blindstitch narrow No. 29
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, polyester, or silk
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Blindstitch foot No. 5

Blind Hem Wide No. 9

• for invisible hems in medium to heavy fabrics

Blind Hem Narrow No. 29

• for invisible hems in batiste

Preparation

• finish the raw edges as desired
• fold the hem and baste or pin in place
• fold the garment back over the right side of the fabric to expose the finished lower edge (see drawing below)
• place the work under the presser foot with the guide positioned against the folded back fabric

Sewing

• the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold
• after sewing about 4" (10cm), check both sides of fabric and adjust the stitch width if necessary

Note:
Small stitches are visible on the right side (decorative effect).

TIP

Fine stitch width adjustment

• sew a test on the fabric. Adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric so that the needle just pierces the edge of the fold
• guide the raw edge along the guide on the foot to keep the stitch depth even

52 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Sewing Knit Fabrics

Important Notes:

Start With a New Needle

• blunt needles can damage knits

Use a Stretch Needle (130/705 H-S) if Necessary

• the needle point slides easily between the fibers

Use a Fine Sewing Thread

• coarse threads can damage knits and cause holes when the garment is washed

When Basting, Use a Darning Thread

• very lightweight (80 weight) darning thread is easier to remove once the seam is complete

Sew a Test if Necessary

• the elasticity of today's knit fabrics varies greatly
  • adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the seam should be as elastic as the fabric
  • for greater elasticity use a shorter stitch length and/or stitch width (only one of these adjustments may be necessary)

Presser Foot Pressure

• soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
  • reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat
• the sewing computer must still feed the fabric properly

Problems With Sewing Knits

Seam Becomes Wavy

• oversew a thread along the edge
• after sewing adjust edges by pulling the thread to regain the original length of the fabric and press seam flat

Edges Roll

• do not sew right on the edge but about 5mm in from the edge
• cut off allowance after finished sewing

How to Avoid Seam Showing Wear After Time

• reinforce seams with a ribbon (e.g. shoulder ribbon) before sewing
• different ribbons are available which can stretch more or less. These can be sewn to give more security to the seam

Practical Stitches – Applications 53

Honeycomb Stitch Edges

Stitch: Honeycomb stitch No. 8
Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Honeycomb Stitch Edges

• for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber knits

Preparation

• turn the raw edge under by 3/8" (1cm); press and baste if required

Sewing

• sew from the right side a presser foot away from the edge
• trim excess fabric from the wrong side

Balance/Corrections

The Honeycomb stitch opens up and it does not look correct:

• turn the stitch length knob until the stitch in the right portion of the screen is identical with the stitch on the fabric

TIP
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and armholes).

• for more information on the Balance function see page 177

54 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Overlock Seams

Vari-overlock Seam

Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A

Closed Seam

• elastic seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock

Sewing

• guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
• the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

Double Overlock Seam/Jersey Overlock Seam

Stitch: Double Overlock No. 10 or Jersey Overlock No. 20 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A

Closed Seam

• overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys

Sewing

• guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
• the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabrics

Practical Stitches – Applications 55

Stretch Overlock Seam/Reinforced Overlock Seam

Stitch: Stretch overlock No. 13
or Reinforced overlock No. 19
Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Overlock foot No. 2A

Closed Seam

• overlock seam in coarse or loose knits

Sewing

• sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
• the stitch should sew over the edge of the fabric on the right swing of the needle

Super Stretch/Stretch Seam

Stitch: Super stretch No. 11 or Stretch No. 18
Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Open Seam

• very elastic seam for knit fabrics
• ideal for sports and leisure wear
• seam lies flat and is not bulky

TIP

When using heavyweight fabrics sew 3/8" (1cm) in from the edge and cut off seam allowance.

56 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Flat Joining Seam

Stitch: Stretch overlock No. 13
Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch
Thraed: cotton or polyester
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Flat Joining Seam

• fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch is placed on the seam allowance which produces a very flat, durable seam
• ideal for fluffy, thick materials such as terry cloth, felt and leather

Sewing

• sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
• the stitch should sew over the edge of the top layer of fabric on the right swing of the needle

TIP

Fabric and thread
When using a matching thread color, this seam is hardly visible in fluffy fabrics.

TIP

Thick seam
Particularly suitable for fabrics in which a normal straight stitch seam would stretch open.

Practical Stitches – Applications 57

Hems With Practical Stitches

Visible Hem With Jersey Stitch

Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 14 Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Visible Stretch Hem

• for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jerseys

Preparation

❖ fold and press hem; baste if required

Sewing

❖ sew hem at desired depth (right side) ❖ trim excess fabric (wrong side)

58 Practical Stitches – Applications

Ribbing With Overlock Seams

Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A

Right side

Ribbing With Overlock Seam

• for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits

Preparation

❖ cut ribbing twice the finished width plus double the seam allowance ❖ fold ribbing in half ❖ pin and baste to opening, front edge to outside

Sewing

❖ sew vari-overlock over the raw edge ❖ guide the raw edge along the pin of the foot ❖ the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

Wrong side

TIP

Preventing the ribbing from becoming wavy Cut ribbing slightly shorter than the opening and pull slightly when pinning.

TIP

Needle stop down Needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and armholes).

Practical Stitches – Applications 59

Hems With Double Needle

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: double needle Thread: cotton or polyester Feed dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Hem Finish in Knits

• elastic hems in knits
• no additional overcasting necessary

Preparation

❖ turn the raw edge under the width desired; press and baste, if required ❖ insert double needle into the sewing computer and thread; threading see page 16 ❖ recall Security Program, select suitable double needle and stitch plate (appropriate double needle limitation – e.g. for a double needle of 4mm select double needle button 4.0)

Sewing

❖ sew on the right side along the seam edge (on the right side two parallel stitch lines are visible, on the wrong side a zig-zag stitch is visible) ❖ trim excessive fabric back to about 2mm from the stitches

TIP

Exact sewing Use guide line on stitch plate or seam guide.

TIP

Adjusting stitch length Increase stitch length according to fabric.

TIP

More elastic seam Use wooly nylon as bobbin thread which results in a more elastic seam.

60 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN

Ribbing Finish

Ribbing

• decorative and very practical way of finishing the edges
• suitable for sweatshirts, pajamas – either way, etc.

Cutting

• width: twice the finished width plus double the seam allowance
• length: desired length plus double the seam allowance
• check length by putting the ribbing folded in half around neck, waist, wrist, or ankle (check whether ribbing around the neck is wide enough to be pulled over the head)

Preparation / Sewing

• make a circle out of the ribbing and sew according to seam allowance (chose suitable overlock stitch according to fabric)
• fold the ribbing in half, the seam to inside (baste edges)
• divide ribbing in four equal sections and mark quarters (mark No. 1 is the seam)
• divide edge of the garment also in four equal sections and mark quarters
• pin right side of ribbing to right side of garment, the four marks matching. The ribbing seam should be placed to the back or on shoulder seam
• sew with a machine overlock stitch (according to fabric)

TIP Using ready-made ribbing The job is made easier as there is no cutting.

Practical Stitches – Applications 61

Reinforced Edges on Woven Fabrics

Stitch: Honeycomb stitch No. 8
or Running stitch No. 4
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: lightweight darning thread
Feed dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Reinforced Edges

• good for work clothes, table linen, towels, etc.
• use a cord to match the color of the fabric.
  This gives additional strength

Suitable Cords

• Perle cotton
• fine crochet yarn
• strong hand-sewing thread
• gimp (not from home dec department)

Sewing

• over sew edges with Honeycomb or Running
  stitch by oversewing a cord along the edge for
  added reinforcement
• if necessary sew a second row further in
  from the edge

62 Practical Stitches – Applications 030794.71.04_0401_a200_EN