I have a frame that I think is a needlepoint frame. It's stamped
"Bill's Frames" and from the archives of this list I deduce that it's
from Bill Gordon's Woodcraft, a now-defunct business once in
Healdsburg, California.
I'm a rug hooker, and don't really need this frame. Is there someone
in the Portland, Oregon, area who has a hankering for it? I would
charge you what Goodwill charged me.
Alternatively, if no one wants it, I sure could use a diagram to
figure out how to attach all of the parts if anyone out there has
one...perhaps I am destined to try needlepoint?
Thanks so much!
Kiera
I had a frame stamped "Bill's Frames" and from the archives of thi
list I deduce that it's
from Bill Gordon's Woodcraft, a now-defunct business once in
Healdsburg, California.
I'm a rug hooker, and don't really need this frame. Is there someone
in the Portland, Oregon, area who has a hankering for it? I would
charge you what Goodwill charged me.
Alternatively, if no one wants it, I sure could use a diagram to
figure out how to attach all of the parts if anyone out there has
one...perhaps I am destined to try needlepoint?
Thanks so much!
Kiera
I did have one of these frames and it was lost when we were traveling.
have all the attachments for doing large needlepoint projects. Do yo
still have this? Hokiesan
I have several sets of these during the evolution of Bill's work.
First he made them with metal parts, then later plastic. I have had
the plastic break but not the metal of course. I have enough for two
floor frame set ups with 6 or more different sizing arrangements to fit
the need. These are not specific to needlepoint. They are simply
scroll frames and usable easily for linen or aida or whatever you like.
I have owned them for likely 25 years and they still work great. They
rotate to check the back and for tying off etc. They are solid oak and
last forever ! There is even a book holder. Barbie who suggests
putting them together and not getting rid of them!
While on the subject, the plastic ends of the rods will break. I've
been through 2 entire sets (and broke all 8) years ago.
There is a fix, since the parts are no longer available. Glue the
broken ends together. Then take a long screw (at least 1/2 inch
longer than the plastic piece). Use a drill bit several sizes smaller
than the screw and drill a pilot hole through the end of the plastic
and into the end of the dowel (easier to remove the plastic and drill
the dowel directly). Insert the screw.
I did this roughly 10 years ago, the glue has since failed, but a
quick tighten of the screw lines the threads up, and I'm good to go
again. Wish I'd thought of this before the plastic ends broke. The
screw gives the added stability.
Tara
The plastic ones, right Tara? That is what I was talking about. The
metal ones are still going strong. I am not saying this is my fav
floor stand as I have others but the ones of the metal are still
usable. I think I have done this process with the hot nail through the
wood and the spot is stronger than the plastic and they do not seem to
break again. The metal construction was indeed superior so do not know
why he went to that ----$?
Hokiesana-
I have a Bill's Frame oak floor stand, complete with book holder. What
I am lacking is the large knob that holds the scroll rod assembly to
the post of the floor stand. (It's a long story as to why, but it
involves the wood stove).
I haven't finished my T. Wentzler "Fruit Bell Pull" due to lack of
"knob-age". Would you possibly have this knob and be willing to sell it
to me?
I would be ever so greatful!!!
If you would like to respond privately, add the number "1" before the
"at" symbol in my address.
Thank you!
Mary Murphy
Yup, the plastic ones. While he was still in business, you could
order replacement parts (as I did). I don't think I'd have half the
problems today as I've lost the need for the scrolls to be drum tight.
Drum tight scrolls, and bouncing cats were an inevitable catastrophe.
Tara
Any wing nut of the right size should work for you. You might want to
get a small piece of wood with a hole to use as a washer to protect
the wood from the wing nut. Take your screw part into any hardware
store, and they'll be able to find something that will work.
Tara
Thank you so much for looking!
Tara's suggestion is something I never thought of- there might be a
wing nut big enough in a hardware store somewhere. I will SO hit myself
in the head if this solves my problem!!
My Bell Pull has been sitting there washed & pressed for more than 4
years- all I have left is the backstitch vines in the borders, and I
was going to replace the flower buds with beads (no confetti stitches
that way), otherwise I would have finished it in hand, then washed.
I've been working on little projects not requiring a scroll frame all
this time.
Thank you anyway for your help!
MM
Thank you so much for looking!
Tara's suggestion is something I never thought of- there might be a
wing nut big enough in a hardware store somewhere. I will SO hit myself
in the head if this solves my problem!!
My Bell Pull has been sitting there washed & pressed for more than 4
years- all I have left is the backstitch vines in the borders, and I
was going to replace the flower buds with beads (no confetti stitches
that way), otherwise I would have finished it in hand, then washed.
I've been working on little projects not requiring a scroll frame all
this time.
Thank you anyway for your help!
MM
Arrggg!!
The largest metal wing nuts are too small, and a regular nut threads
are too fine for the wooden threaded shaft of the frame. A 3/4" nut
will fit, but it won't screw down the threads because they don't match.
Unless I can find a hardware store or source that carries obscure
sizes;
I bought my frame set over 20 years ago- it's all oak-
no metal parts at all.
Alas and Alack! >sigh< 8
Oh I see the problem. You are trying to find a metal wing nut to fit a
PLASTIC thread. Oh yes, impossible. I thought perhaps you had the
metal version. This does sound hopeless unless you find someone with
that knob.....
Just to clarify, you are talking about the knob that screws onto the
threaded metal rod that holds the scroll frame to the vertical part of
the floor stand, correct?
Couple of options still available. IIRC, there are two knobs on the
bottom of the stand holding the the legs to the stand. These are the
same thread as the threaded metal rod (can you tell I wore one down
enough to be annoying on the upper part of the stand?). Course, that
leaves you one legged, but you could find some other way to attach the
leg back as it's not something you need to adjust all the time like the
upper connection.
Could the threads be metric (I find that hard to fathom since Bill's
Frames was in the US)?
Tara
Actually- my entire frame, stand and scroll frame, is made of oak- the
knob I need, originally, was of wood. What you are refering to as a
threaded metal rod, mine is a 5/8" or so diameter WOODEN threaded rod,
protruding about 3" long from the side bar of the scroll frame. You are
correct in that this is the part of the scroll frame assembly that
holds the frame to the vertical post of the floor stand, just mine is
wooden and threaded, not metal and threaded. I got my frame set in 1984
or '85 from the back of the CSCC magazine, maybe it was Bill's original
version, which later evolved into off-the-shelf metal parts. I know if
I could find a cabinet-maker/wood worker with an extensive shop, I
could probably have a new knob machined to fit, taking care to match
the threads on my scroll frame rod. I believe on my stand that the legs
knobs (again, wood to wood) are a smaller diameter, but I actually
never checked
I had a thought on the way to work- maybe a PVC nut (if there is such a
thing) from Home Depot or Lowe's would match the wooden threads, unlike
the metal threads.
Hey Fred- how about a manly opinion of this hardware stuff??!!
Anyway, thanks for all the ponderings on my behalf!
MM
Ah. got you. Mine was probably a few years later. The scroll frame
has a metal nut imbedded in one side, a threaded rod that screws into
that (handy actually, because you can use the scroll frame without the
stand and not have anything catching threads). That goes through the
holes in the floor piece. Then a wooden knob with a threaded metal
(soft metal, which is why I had switch them around at one point)
insert to tighten it to the floor piece. The leg pieces are the same
construction, imbedded nuts, threaded rods, and wooden knobs with
metal inserts.
Hence my confusion, as my knobs are also wooden, just not entirely
wooden.
Good luck with your quest.
Tara
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