Plaster problems

Hello again people!

I've been experimenting with plaster casting, making casts of baby feet in soft clay then taking a plaster cast of the impression, creating a 3D plaster wall hanging. I am using red clay because I want to utilise the colour deposit on the plaster surface to enhance the finished product, creating a tonal effect on the feet, but taking the red deposit off on the surface around the feet - creating a contrasting white "mount". However this has created problems in itself, because I have been getting tide marks - a little like contour lines on an ordnance survey map - where I pour the plaster, and at some other points on the surface, where the plaster flows. I have used abrasive sponge to take the red clay deposit off where I don't want it, but these tide marks go deep into the plaster, and I haven't yet been able to reproduce a uniform whiteness surrounding the feet, without these marks remaining. To sand the plaster down to the point where the marks disappear means I end up with places that are more deeply eroded than the surrounding surface, which is not desirable, it needs to be a generally flat surface surrounding the feet.

I have tried:

- altering the plaster mix - both weak and strong - warmer and colder water

- harder and softer clay

- leaving the clay till leather hard before pouring

- leaving the clay till dry before pouring

but none of the above have made any difference - the tide marks persist.

I know this isn't really a problem one would have with plaster mould making, as tide marks wouldn't matter - but I wondered if there was a plaster expert out there who would be able to enrich me with the benfit of his or her greater wisdom!!

Many thanks for reading - and even more thanks for replying!!

Dominic

Reply to
Dominic Spencer
Loading thread data ...
[I guess I'm having a hard time visualizing exactly what you're doing, Dominic, but it's not the usual way of going about this sort of thing. First off, you're not going to get a great impression of the baby feet in wet clay; it will work to some extent, but much detail will be lost, and the impressions will be distorted by the pressure of application. Try dental alginate instead; this will let you cast perfect plaster bably feet, which you can use to stamp the clay repeatedly without distortion. Most art supply stores carry kits for this purpose, or ask your dentist for some.

As for the "tidal marks", it sounds like badly mixed plaster. Try this: fill a bucket halfway full of room-temperature water. Sift fresh plaster into it by handfuls; get a good grade of plaster in a 50 or 100 lb. sack. (the little boxes of plaster you get at art or paint stores are grossly overpriced, usually stale to start with, and they don't give you enough anyway). When the plaster forms a hill on top of the water slow down, but don't stop - wait to see if it sinks, and if so, sift in a little more. When you've added enough, it will sit there on the surface and slowly turn color as it absorbs water without sinking. Mix thoroughly for at least a minute - two is better - until the mixture is smooth and the consistency of heavy cream. Apply the first coat by flicking it on with some force - this helps keep bubbles from forming between the part and the plaster. Then back it up when the plaster is starting to set, and has the consistency of whipped cream.

As for your idea of using red clay as a pigmentation, that's up to you, but it's not the best way to color things. The color fades as it dries to an insipid pinkish color, it's always going to be somewhat dusty, and the clay residue will tend to obscure surface details. To remove it, use a regular sponge, not an abrasive one. You can use shellac to fix the surface and make it more permanent; dilute it with alcohol for the first coat or two, use it full-strength if you want a shiny effect.]

Andrew Werby

formatting link

Reply to
Andrew Werby

Dominic,

Several of my customers in my previous life did this, but used a soft, fine-grained white clay to take the impression, and rather than cast it, fired the impression, glazing it with a lightly coloured transparent glaze, often a pale green. This pools in the impression, resulting in deeper colour where the feet were, and a paler surround. Very effective, and less hassle than casting!

Steve Bath UK

In article , Dominic Spencer writes

Reply to
Steve Mills

Thanks to all for your help - I will be continuing my efforts with renewed vigour, and hopefully greater success!

What fine people you are!

Thank you

Dominic

Reply to
Dominic Spencer

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.