I'd like to be able to make pants for my husband and for myself. I've never
tackled something that difficult yet. Does anyone have a suggestion on how
to go about doing this? Any good books or ideas?
You are right that it is difficult, but the looser the fit you want, the
easier it will get.
I'm sure other people will chime in with other things, including some
really good books out there, but as for myself, please take the
information on this web site to heart:
I understand that making trousers/slacks for guys is quite different
than fitting women's slacks. For one thing - one side of the slacks's
front is larger and fit more loosely than on the opposite side of the
zipper. It is said that a man "dresses" left or right. And whereas a
woman's front curve of the crotch is at a higher elevation from the
floor than the rear crotch curve, with men it is the opposite. HTH a
On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 08:41:35 -0500, "Cindy"
The "dressing" left or right is accomplished by stretching and
pressing the crotch seam on the preferred side; no alteration of the
pattern is required. Pants really aren't that difficult to make; it's
the fitting that is crucial. Once that is accomplished, these are the
steps in making up. Serge or otherwise finish all seam allowances.
Details first: creases are pressed in first. Pleats next, if part of
the design. Pockets next--facings first, then the bag. Partially sew
the front seam below the zipper, about one inch--just enough to press
and install the zipper. Zipper next. Sew one back to one front at
inseam; press seam open. Sew the crotch seam (the "U" shape). Sew
If you're making pull-on pants, skip to the inseam step. Turn over
the top for a casing, and install either elastic or drawstring, or
Designers do this all the time. They make a toile, or muslin of the
design. When it looks the way they want, they mark all the seams with
a marker, take it apart, and the patternmaker makes a permanent
pattern of the right side of the garment for a woman, a left side for
You don't even have to take the garment apart. You can pin draft. A
carpeted floor will work for this if you don't have a professional
drafting table. Put a large piece of paper down on the carpet. Smooth
out the garment so that the piece you're going to draft is completely
flat, with no wrinkles. Then, Secure it with sticky tape so it won't
move around. Then, take a pin, and prick the seam every half inch all
the way around the piece. When you've completed one piece, repeat the
process with the other pieces. For pants, you'll have a front and
back, and maybe a pocket.
Remove the garment from the paper, and connect the pin pricks. Then
add 5/8-inch seam allowances on all edges, and at least 1-1/2 inches
for the hem.
Even though the pants fit, you should make a muslin first out of cheap
material to make sure of the fit.