I'd like to be able to make pants for my husband and for myself. I've never tackled something that difficult yet. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to go about doing this? Any good books or ideas? Thanks, Cindy Hutchison
You are right that it is difficult, but the looser the fit you want, the easier it will get.
I'm sure other people will chime in with other things, including some really good books out there, but as for myself, please take the information on this web site to heart:
If you aim for a trouser fit, you will have more successes. If you are aiming for a "they fit so close you'd be surprised they weren't spray-painted on" look, it will be incredibly difficult.
Dear Sharon,
The "dressing" left or right is accomplished by stretching and pressing the crotch seam on the preferred side; no alteration of the pattern is required. Pants really aren't that difficult to make; it's the fitting that is crucial. Once that is accomplished, these are the steps in making up. Serge or otherwise finish all seam allowances. Details first: creases are pressed in first. Pleats next, if part of the design. Pockets next--facings first, then the bag. Partially sew the front seam below the zipper, about one inch--just enough to press and install the zipper. Zipper next. Sew one back to one front at inseam; press seam open. Sew the crotch seam (the "U" shape). Sew side seams.
If you're making pull-on pants, skip to the inseam step. Turn over the top for a casing, and install either elastic or drawstring, or both.
Teri
What about dismantling a pair of pants that fit? Any hints on doing that? Thanks, Cindy
Dear Cindy,
Designers do this all the time. They make a toile, or muslin of the design. When it looks the way they want, they mark all the seams with a marker, take it apart, and the patternmaker makes a permanent pattern of the right side of the garment for a woman, a left side for a man.
You don't even have to take the garment apart. You can pin draft. A carpeted floor will work for this if you don't have a professional drafting table. Put a large piece of paper down on the carpet. Smooth out the garment so that the piece you're going to draft is completely flat, with no wrinkles. Then, Secure it with sticky tape so it won't move around. Then, take a pin, and prick the seam every half inch all the way around the piece. When you've completed one piece, repeat the process with the other pieces. For pants, you'll have a front and back, and maybe a pocket.
Remove the garment from the paper, and connect the pin pricks. Then add 5/8-inch seam allowances on all edges, and at least 1-1/2 inches for the hem.
Even though the pants fit, you should make a muslin first out of cheap material to make sure of the fit.
Good luck.
Teri
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