boring bars

can get boring bars any size and length you want.

Ted,I guess I used the wrong nomenclature...Should be "deep hollowing system"...The other thing is I probably overstated the depth requirement as

Is that what you find in a dry county?

-- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. <

September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

Hi Rick Now 18 inches is something I know about. I haved regularly hollowed that deep with a variety of tools. You can successfully use a Proforme or Rolly Munro tool to that depth by slipping their shaft into one of the Proforme handles. I have always liked the long Woodcut handle/shaft, filled with lead shot. Alas, Ken no longer shows it on his website. I allowed the 5/8 inch Proform standard shaft to slip inside a 1 inch diameter shaft handle.

Woodcut now has on the scene an intermediate 20 inch shaft which will do the same thing, only now you need two of them to get about the same length as their old long shaft. Other difference is that the new shaft has a 1&1/8 outer diameter. I have found these to be plenty stiff for the that depth, if you have good control of your technique.

Stewart has a 7/8 inch Super Omni Shaft that will work within the range you are describing. It has a 1/2 inch end bore, into which I like to fit a 1/2 inch Kelton Hollower. The 7/8 inch Super Omni Shaft necks down to 3/4 on one end, so it will fit into a Jamieson, Kelton, etc. torsionally restrained rig.

There is of course the Jamieson large boring bars, on which is either

1.125 or 1.250 in diameter. John Lea also makes (relatively inexpensive) extended boring bars and they can be found on his website.

There are lots of other options, including the Nichols and Glaser extended boring bars that have been around for a long time.

While it is nice to be able to hollow deep, one needs to weigh shaft rigidity versus shaft diameter, as increased shaft diameter will greatly restrict the mouth size you have too work with. I, personally, prefer limiting my shaft diameter as much as possible because I like to do small mouthed work. While not ideal, you can get by with smaller diameter shafts when mouth size is more important than speed.

Hopes this helps a little

Lyn

snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

Great. If you are this prolific with deep hollowing tools I for one would like to see some of these hollow vessels. Is there somewhere I can go to see some recent ones on the net or could you post some examples on the woodworking picture newsgroup? It would be nice if you could list which vessels were turned with which tools also.

I wasn't aware any comments were made about being prolific, though it is true that hollow forms are my favorite turnings.

There are several shown on the WOW site. Nothing real recent as I stopped posting there when some took it on themselves to be photographic critics rather than allowing folks a place simply to share their turnings. I think Chris has some photos as well; there are also some shown still mounted on the lathe in back issues of More Woodturning.

Kelton is planning on putting on their website an article of mine on using the Kelton Hollowers (first to be published in an upcoming More Woodturning). Maybe I can get them to toss in a couple photos of a recent hollow form there.

I can't think of any form I've done where I used only one tool or style of tool, with the exception of a couple of miniatures I did solely with the smaller Sorby tools. Particularly as I usually try to have a mouth only slightly larger than the tool shaft, it is often near essential to have a lot of different shaft curvatures (though recently, I've found the Keltons, Jordan's and Munro to allow me to get by with fewer tools).

Lyn

Of course really all of this is a lie and I just gr> Great. If you are this prolific with deep hollowing tools I for one would

Hi Lynn, The photography comments on the WoW group where by no means intended to discourage folks from posting photos of thier work. The comments were merely suggestions on how to improve the quality of your pictures only if you felt you wanted to. You could just ignore the comments if you feel they are inappropriate just like we can here if something is posted which we object to or have no interest. The primary goal of the group is to show examples of ones work and if the photos are good or bad nobody really cares. I very much enjoyed the photos you posted on WoW and would hope you would ignore the photo comments if they bother you and continue to post examples of your work if you feel so inclined. Please don't take this post as being negative in the slightest. Merely a friendly observation.

Bob, Naugatuck Ct.