Buffing?

There's a difference between level and shine. If you don't want every irregularity to become more evident, you need to level before buffing, or buff to less than shine, so the light returning to your eye is scattered. I like the 3M sponge-backed extra fine as a level, followed by a buff with Tripoli - which is a less than full shine - then I decide if I want to go rouge.

You should use the leveling sandpaper with some sort of backing to spread the pressure to bridge minor defects, and some lube to keep the "bite" constant.

I have never buffed anything before so what do I do I need to do it? Will that bring out the slight brush marks and things like that?

Thanks Darren

Right. I'd suggest Darren pick up a book on auto finishing. The final sanding prior to buffing levels the surface to a glass smooth finish. For lacquer finishes I use grits on the order of 800-1500 with soapy water acting as a lubricant. Be extra careful at the edges. Epoxy behaves similarly to lacquer; make sure both are *fully* cured - I wait at least 30 days before "color sanding," as it's called.

application protocol. You mentioned brush marks, so you must have applied the epoxy with a brush. Did you thin the epoxy at all before application to the surface? What type of brush did you use? The el-cheapo throw away ³chip² style brushes leave lots of brush marks, and can loose hairs during the application as well. Thinning the epoxy is important to get a good lay-on, and will prevent bubbles from forming during the application. It is also important to prep the surface properly before applying your epoxy topcoat. Did you apply a thin sealer prior to the topcoat? A thin epoxy sealer helps to prep the surface and allows a smoother lay-on of the ultimate topcoat. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Thanks and all the best to you and yours!