Buying a new chainsaw?

What the heck are you cutting that you need a 28" bar?

I have three Stihls, an 025, an 066, and a new MS390 (formerly 039). The

066 has a 28" bar on it, and it's so big and unwieldy that I only use it to cut trees over 24" diameter or cut a stump off flush with grade. Mostly it just sits around. The 025 has a 16" bar and I use it for limbing and bucking small firewood, and the MS390 has a 20" bar and is used for felling and accompanies my Wood-Mizer.

I'd think that a 20" bar would be perfect for an 036 - you're not dragging six feet of chain trying to make a cut either. You'll notice a difference in power if you go smaller. Save the big bar for special applications, unless I'm talking out my ass and you spend your days felling and bucking doug fir and redwoods.

Jon E

I am on the market for a chainsaw. What would be the right size of chain to get the 1/4'' chain that uses a

5/32" round file or the .320 that uses a 3/16" file or the 3/8" using the 7/32" round file. I wonder about the right size of engine. It ranges from 32 to 46cc plus. Some claimed that their chromed cylinder will last longer. Some have an added feature like turbo jet air cleaner which I do not know what it does. It appears that for cutting bowl blanks a 18 to 20 inches long bar is preferred? Some seem to use a ripping chain and others do not bother. All the aforementioned creates a little confusion when buying a gasoline powered chainsaw for the first time. Not to mentioned that the longer the chain is more time it takes for filing it.

Big trees, like a Manitoba Maple/Box Elder over 30" diameter. Chewing away from all sides with a short bar is a bore.

If I had three saws, I might have different bar lengths. When I was thinning in the forest with a saw in my hands all day (early 90's), I switched from a 28" that my used saw came with to a 20" bar.

Given that am big enough to carry a little heavier saw, I don't find my combination at all uncomfortable. I prefer to cut through a large tree with a saw bar longer than the diameter. The more leeway the better, as you can't always get to the optimal position. I think a lighter chain might allow you to hit the throttle and spin up quicker (sounding snappier) , but I don't think a shorter/lighter chain saves much horsepower once you're in the wood cutting with a given cut length.

More teeth isn't much problem unless you really dull them considerably cutting into steel or rock.

Derek

I haven't used the smaller saws.

I think this aircleaner probably just stays clean better

A regular chain works fine. I use a professional type chain, not an anti-kickback chain. The main thing in keep a chainsaw sharp is keeping it out of steel, rock and dirt. Using a sawbuck or other to keep the wood off the ground is the key. Also, you should replace your file after 5-10 filing. If you keep it longer, it takes a long time to sharpen.

Capacity of the lathe is the thing I would consider. You'd like to get capacity plus about 100mm in the bar, so you don't bury the nose cutting the bowl blank. That leads to premature wear, especially if you don't grease it (!), and can result in the nose climbing out of the cut in your direction.

First saw I bought (Stihl) was chromed, had to trade it for parts after sixteen years, because the cost of the replacement magneto exceeded the difference between him and a new saw. His motor is still limbing in the woods, now with a new ignition.

As far as cutting blanks, a skip chain is wonderful, if you can get it. Cleans the kerf better than a standard chain, but is a bit grabby on crosscuts. As I tend to "discover" turnings while making wood for the winter, I stick to standard chain.

Hi Denis, I can't answer your question on the type of chain. I would recommend that you talk to the local vendor - one that specializes in chainsaws and not a place that sells them like a general hardware store. Or talk to a sawyer or tree surgeon who does this for a living. As to the size of saw and the length of the blade. I think here you have to look at a few things.

1. The size of your lathe as to how large you need to cut.
2. How much wood are you going to cut with your saw
3. How big are the tree's you are eyeing to cut up for bowl blanks. I used to use a Stihl 026 with a 16" to 18" blade (had two actually), now I have a Husky (can't recall the model, but it has about a 66) with a

24" bar. The smaller saw is great for cutting wood that is under the size of the blade. I wouldn't use it for cutting wood which has a greater diameter than the blades length. Sure it can be done, but now you are taking twice or more the cuts. And at least a few of them are the full length of the bar and it really bogs down, taking a lot longer to cut. Last fall I was cutting a large maple tree that was all curly. My friend was using a large saw the size of my new Husky and I was using my Stihl 026. By the end of the afternoon, he had cut twice the amount of wood and still had energy to load his van. I was worn completely out and had half the wood. The lighter saws sound great, as you can carry them longer, but if your cutting time is more than twice that of the larger saw, you are actually holding more weight in the long run. So I would opt for the larger saw in your case. Like a large lathe can handle big and small work, where a small lathe can only handle small work, a large saw can cut big or small, where a small saw will limit you to small stuff. I don't use a ripping chain, but I do use a professional chain that is a bit more aggressive. --Jim

I have not bough the chainsaw yet. I see people with nice ash, cherry and apple of trees blocks cut at about 18-20" long. I am anxious to get at it. Thanks for the tips