convert chisel to bowl gouge

Shawn, I made all except one of my bowl gouges from shock absorber rods using only a right angle grinder and a carbide bit and drill.

For a lathe stand get Kieth Rowley's Woodturning a foundation course. He has alot of good information that you would ba able to use and he also tells you how to put together a stand for your lathe

Bruce

Congratulations on your large shop. Wish I had that kind of room available.

Because I do not, my lathe stand doubles, as do all my tool bases, as a storage cabinet. It is built of 3/4 particle board, fully glued and screwed, and with 3/4 compartment dividers. Used two sheets in it, since it's a 42" lathe, so you can imagine it's already heavy, made heavier by storage of my cased tailed tools. Make yours with a bed extension in mind, with 4-5" excess footprint for stability.

Two things to consider in construction are movability and height. I accomplished the first by installing casters at one end, almost 1/4" off the floor when the case is on its dustkicks. The kicks are relieved at that end so I can grip the handles at the other, rotate up on to the casters, and move the whole (empty, of course) wheelbarrow-fashion. The second, proper height, should accomplished through the use of stacked blocks under the attachment points. Make the cabinet low enough so that you have full speed change and, more important, full shaving removal clearance under the lathe. Ideal would be enough to put a tin heating duct along and under the bed to gather the sanding dust.

Thanks, it just came in the library...

Shawn

I _can_ imagine the weight. I just moved an old counter that originally came from a post office (gov't money - overbuilt) made out of particle board and plywood. I was hoping to use it for the lathe bench, but it's 6" too short and an odd shape to be able to fit the motor into (one end rounded).

I'll keep your tips in mind. In my current setup the tailstock and tool rest just barely clear the shelf the lathe is mounted on. Very annoying when a few chips get in there...

Thanks, Shawn

Looks to be a carving gouge, based on the tang configuration. You could do a lot better on end grain hollowing with a pointy or fingernail grind gouge. If you want to abuse this one as a turning tool, use it as a roughing gouge for the outsides of things, where it should remove wood at any rate you care. keep your speed and feed pressure low to avoid excessive heating of the edge, and you'll be happy.

Long handles on gouges can get in the way if you're obliged to turn over the bed, and are unnecessary if you keep your toolrest close.