cottonwood

I'm always on the prowl for free wood.

A couple weeks ago I grabbed a couple large logs that turned out to be cottonwood. After sectioning the logs to cut out the pith I discovered that one had some exceptional figure.

A few people complain that cottonwood is too soft with really bad end grain. But free wood is free turning without the worry of ruining something valuable in the process of experimenting.

Yesterday I roughed out a 12 inch bowl with one of the pieces and sealed and set on a shelf it to dry. Anybody have recommendations short of throwing it out or using it for firewood?

Reply to
william kossack
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Look up Peter Bloch, "Bloch of Wood" over in New Hampshire - he does translucent lampshades from popple/cottonwood/aspen (the curse of common names, but anyway). However, of you have alread split all the logs lengthwise you won't be able to replicate those (he just hollows the pith right out, and the ring that's left dries nicely).

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Ecnerwal

Reply to
George

Reply to
Grandpa

as well as creating a lot of ash and sometimes stinks while burning.

Reply to
Ray Manning

I'm in the process of rough turning the large collection of chuncks I've collected including the cottonwood. Over the weekend I turned part of the second log. It was highly figured with lots of contrasting colors. I rough turned a 14 inch bowl then took a cut off from rounding the blank and turned it also.

I kept my chisels sharp and It turned like a dream with n> I'm always on the prowl for free wood.

Reply to
william kossack

Yep, as long as you cut instead of trying to bully it, it's nice. Be advised, though, that it will be a bit weak once you dry it. A steady is a real good idea at 1/4 or so thickness. Plan on taking at least one piece down below 1/4 and oil soaking it so the sunlight shines through.

Leaving it at about 1/2 or so on the bottom, tapering up, and treating with walnut oil makes a great popcorn bowl. Thicker bottom with lots of air doesn't transfer heat to the lap, and the walnut oil won't blister from the heat of the unpopped kernels.

Reply to
George

Reply to
william kossack

As in translucency? Any curing oil, though price would dictate linseed or tung. I'm partial to linseed - boiled, of course - because I don't care for the scent of tung or the slight haze it has in surface finishes. Finish with any linseed-based varnish for a film finish and additional "depth."

Be sure to allow time to cure, because it will take time to get oxygen cross-links inside the wood.

Reply to
George

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