finsih confusion

Oct 01, 2006 10 Replies
T

I'm very confused by finish. I use the shellawax friction polish system along with EEE. I'm hearing that I should using sanding sealer inbetween coats after the



600 grit stage to help things out. I see many kinds of sanding sealer on the market... BLO Deft Minwax Mylands but nobody seems to know for sure which one and why. The minwax takes 2 hours to dry it says. BLO says wipe on and then wipe off excess. I'd really appreciate some structure on this. Ideally I'd like a mirror finish on my pens, but want the 'feel' of wood too. So i've been steering away from CA/BLO as a finish.

Troy


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W

For that nice polished finish your talking about I do two completely different types of finish. Sometimes I use the eee and shellawax, are you using the cream or liquid? You should use the liquid. The other one I like better for durability is blo and then turners polish. I found the turners polish alone, and the eee and shellawax don't last long. I will say I stop just short of abuse of my pens. The other thing I do is beall buff them.

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K

" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Well, to add to the conversation and perhaps the confusion, I use a homemade polish consisting of equal parts shellac, denatured alchol and BLO. Shake well before using, then apply several coats with lathe turning at high speed. This is similar to a french polish and or shellwax. I like it for the feel and ease of use. It seems to standup to the daily use of everyday pens.

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T

I wasn't using EEE before, but just got a jar of it the other day. I use Shellawax Liguid. The steps I've been using are....

turn Sand @ 150 Sand @ 220 Sand @ 320 wet sand 400 Wet Sand 800

0000 Steel Wool Wet Sand 1000 Wet Sand 1500 Wet Sand 2000 Wet Sand 2500 Wipe 0000 Steel Wool Shellawax Liguid x 3 coats.

I'm thinking now I need to make some changes.... Turn Sand@ 150 tack Sand @ 220 tack Sand @ 320 tack Sand @ 400 ( all with J papers from the white box ) tack Sand @ 600 w/d but sand dry tack

0000 Steel Wool tack BLO Sand @ 800 w/d but sand dry tack blo Sand @ 1000 w/d but sand dry tack blo sand @ 1500 w/d but sand dry tack blo sand @ 2000 w/d but sand dry tack blo Sand @ 2500 w/d but sand dry tack EEE Shellawax till smokes! ( before I just did it till warm. ) EEE Wipe shellawax EEE Wipe Shellawax

What do you think of this? I almost bought Mylands Cellulouse sealer but @ $16/qt its awful expensive. I was able to get a gallon of BLO for $10 at Lowes the other day because it was misshelved.

Troy

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T

I have DNA also. LOL I got more tools then I know how to use :(

Troy

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T

You may have hit on something Darrel. I haven't changed the belt position of my 1014VS since I got it. Perhaps I'm not turning it fast enough because it feels "tacky" for quite a while after I get "done". I've read that you want the shellawax to just start to smoke if you can. I've not been getting it anywhere near that hot.

God Bless to you Too Troy

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G

The place to go is

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For what you want, I would finish the wood with micro mesh up to 12000 grade followed by Myland Friction Polish and then a good wax. It is not as durable as CA/BLO but it is much easier and faster. If the wood has pores, a slurry of sanding sealer should be used first.

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D

Troy I am not sure how fast to turn a pen but I would generally have the lathe at

2500 rpm or so. For some woods I use 3500. Actually you should slow the lathe to sand, but I usually do pens > > Troy
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T

yep, as I thought, I had it too slow. I had it 1100-2500, so now I moved it up to the top which is 2600-3900. Glad its electronically variable :D Troy

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W

Yes, get the friction polish hot, thats key

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