Hey Tim!

Hi Tim,

If you ever have problems accessing newgroups via Outlook (or any other program that accesses newsgroups), you can always access the via the internet... I just found out about this myself... Here's the URL:

Happy turnings!--Ali T. Borahan AliSails - Fine Wood Artistry & Custom Woodcrafts Web URL:

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The average stain? Probably not, you will need some sort of finish.

What I have noticed is that unfinished pieces tend to dry and develop checks (sometimes just good ole splits). What the finish seems to do is slow the drying process and keep the piece from warping or checking. I have a small candydish I truned from some kind of oak, a nice little piece. I did notice that about four days after I brought it into my office it developed a warp. But now, a couple of weeks later, all has returned to normal and the peice looks great.

Also, you can turn a green piece to almost final form, soak it in LDD for 24 hours, shake the LDD off, chuck it up and spin the excess off,use a scraper to clean it up (this gets the gooey slimy stuff off) brining it down to final form and finish it much quicker than you can do what I had been doing. I had taken the piece down to about 1/4 inch and then soaked it for

24 hours and finished cutting it. Either works well, but I don't know but what I like almost finishing it better.

Deb

My green test pieces didn't split with just the stain overnight, but it's been raining cats and dogs here so that may have had an effect on drying. I think I have some leftover polyurethane that I can slap over the stain and see how things go.

Once I'm confident I can keep my work from cracking, I'll be ready to do some serious turning...NOT! I'm going to have to practice sharpening my tools next.

I've read on several sites that a 100-120 grit aluminum oxide wheel is the way to go. Some say to hone afterward, some say not to. I guess I'll have to play that one by ear and see how things go.

tim