I've seen lots of references to using hot melt glue (HMG) to stick scrap blocks to bowl blanks.
Is there a "preferred" formulation of HMG (are there different formulations?)
What about quantity of HMG used (a few blobs vs "smear it everywhere you can think of")?
It just seems to me that most of the HMG that I've seen barely holds 2 pieces of paper together, let alone a large hunk of wood spinning at several hundreds of RPMs.
TIA, Bruce
Darrell is the grand guru of hot melt. Personally I find that it makes mounting true on a trued piece more difficult because it's difficult to squeeze and distribute evenly. Haven't played much with it since I got my second chuck, save to attach a top to a box cut from the same stock to keep the grain in register as I sand. Even there I find myself going to masking tape now because it does everything I want with less fuss.
When I used hot melt on faceplate stuff I used to make concentric grooves with the parting tool to hold the bead, squashing to as close as I could with the tailstock.
Hi Bruce
I use the hotmelt glue rarely, however it is one more arrow in your quiver so to speak, and there are times it comes in handy.
First, you use it on dry wood, have your glue gun on for a long time so it is really heated up well, then I use a propane torch to warm up the wood so the glue doesn't cool as quickly, and than work fast, start gluing in the center and spiral to the edge, join and clamp it down, DONE.
O yes, and do have a look at Darrell Feltmate's website.
Bruce I use a lot of hot glue for finishing bowls especially, although other pieces as well. George does a better job than I at getting a trued up piece on a chuck to run true without redoing the outside :-) Especially for doing bowls, when a dried blank is oval now anyway, I just hot glue to a threaded wood block and off to the lathe. I think it is well displayed on my site under turning a bowl in the finish turning section.
I use a heat gun to warm the wood and the bowl. You can even get the glue to a higher temperature with no fear of flames. If a recess is turned in the scrap block and a foot turned to match then the whole assembly will still stay concentric whilst drying and re-mounting for final truing is a breeze! Peter Visit my site at:
Hi,
I have no chuck other than a faceplate, and so use my hot glue gun for most things. I simply run a fairly think ring of glue around the the middle of the block, (I use a block of wood screwed to the faceplate) and stick the wood on.
It's never come off, but does pry of easily with a flat chisel a the end.
So my answer is - I use whichever glue sticks are the cheapest at B&Q...
Steve
Canchippy wrote:
Hi,
Bostik 6303 is a good choice if you want a hot melt glue designed for wood (and a prouct that performs ina predictable manner once you start using it).
An application to try is an almost complete circle a little in from the edge of your glue block (turned slightly concave). Leave a gap in the "circle" to prevent any air trapped pushing the glue out from between the two surfaces.
Use too much of the Bostik and it wil be hard to remove the turned item!
if you finish the base of your item and want to secure it with hot melt, be sure to seal it first as the hot melt can tear grain. Turn a small recess in the glue block to take the base and assist centreing the reversed work. Try not to use too much. Any adhering glue can be removed from the base, when it is removed from the glue block, with a rag dipped in thinners.
This is a summary of the procedure from a very good turner who doesn't us a chuck for bowl.
Alan
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