how many use glue blocks

you use tough tools, dude!!

I get nicks in my tools from the chuck...

OTOH, the outer jaw edges are always nice and shiny from the sanding disk hitting them.. *g*

Mac

Lyndell... if you like glue guns, I can recommend this one:

we liked the one that I got for my wife so much that we got a few extras last order... hard to beat the speed and ease for $10! Mac

I find that the more green wood I turn, the more I use a tenon instead of a recess....

Main 2 reasons are that I hate having to true up the recess after the wood has moved, and on woods that are prone to cracking I'd rather not be helping the process by applying pressure from the inside out...

One advantage of the recess though, is if the wood has cracked near the recess, you can mount it on the chuck, open the jaws until the crack expands a bit, use CA in the crack and remove the pressure from the chuck and clamp it a few minutes... works well for me.. Mac

Maybe taking an old skew or diamond point and grinding it to the angle you need for your dovetail?

The Oneway chucks use a straight wall and I find that the $13 mini flat box scraper from Penn State Ind. works great if I just keep it aligned to the bed rails.. Mac

I ground one of those scrapers from my carbon steel tools to do it. I "sharpen" by running the top flat on sandpaper. Works fine for recesses. Tenons just work to a cardboard template. Or you can check and see if your skew's ground at the right angle.

Probably because you don't use the pin-chuck / pillar method, which is a cinch to remount after drying. I like to use all the thickness I can, so the recess doesn't take away 3/4 of an inch of bowl depth. For the curious, that is 3/8 for the tenon and about 3/8 to get the circle large enough to make one.

You must be using some exotic woods or angles. Most bowls are cut with the sapwood on the outside and are under compression both down and in. Only cracks you should see are those which were there already.

Now if you cut with heartwood downside, 'nother matter.

Well, yeah, that's part of the experience too.

And I get nicks in Chuck from everything...wood, jaws, tools, mosquitos

face it dude, you're just plain Chucked..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Actually, a lot of the stuff I've been turning lately has existing cracks that need to be glued and clamped before I turn them.. others, mostly soft stuff like pine & fir, need a deeper recess with a thicker wall, which "wastes" more wood then a tenon.. Then there's the funnel factor... never made a funnel out of one with a tenon.. lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Um, I don't want to talk about it...

...Kevin

It's good to read you and others admitting to having similar nicks, Kevin - I thought I might be alone in my carelessness. Thankfully I've never caught the tool in the space between the jaws! ...yet.

Don't know that catching a tool between the jaws is really possible. At normal (for me anyway) speeds the jaws don't present a hole long enough for much depth penetration. Plenty of time to ensure I have some edge regrinding to do though!

Anymore it's rare form me to be cutting near the jaws. I usually try to figure out how to get at the wood w/o being anywhere near them - i.e., reversing bowls, leaving extra wood on things mounted between centers, etc. But there's always that odd time...

...Kevin