New Nova will be here tonight!

I wondered about that, but like no vacuum cleaner nozzle that I've seen... I Mickey Moused it for now... I found a couple of old hoses from the wife's POS power painter and the outside OD of the hose is a pretty good match with the inside of the vac connector.. I got lucky on the other end, too.. the inside OD of the hose just fits on the barb fitting that I was using in my shop-built rotary valve..lol

mac

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Thanks, Steve... I see already that I'm going to have a LOT of questions...

Do you ever use the "soft" or "hard" settings?

mac

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I used a piece of clear-flex hose I bought from a hardware store to run from the adapter to the vacuum

I haven't, but Steve (with the 1 year of Demo's he did) may have used them

the adapter to the vacuum

A vacuum pump or shop vac, Ralph?

mac

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I used the "hard" setting this morning on a log mounted for a wing bowl.. Figured that since I was starting at about 300 rpm that I'd try it..

No difference that I could tell, but I wasn't really watching the tachometer..

mac

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Where you'll want soft start is with soft, wet wood. Puts less starting shock on the hold. With dry, dense stuff, probably not a hill of beans.

If you get a bidirectional pin chuck it's a real good idea to start soft so the shock doesn't embed the roll pin in the wood. Enough hard starts and you can lose your wedge hold. I still start the heavy stuff spinning by hand out of habit even though I've got a unidirectional pin chuck with superior holding power now. The 3000 doesn't offer soft start.

Would also make a difference if you're using a crush hold on a piece that's waaay out of balance, whether by intent or accident. If you've divided the force over a broad area, and secured a shoulder or mortise bottom to the front of the jaws to resist tilt, probably not much difference either.

Ah, the equivalent of lower belt tension for we conventional guys, eh? Here I figured they'd finally put something into those digital gizmos that meant something. Soft start would sure be nice, and probably wouldn't involve more than a buck three fifty of electronics. Believe it is out there on other lathes. Still remember my amazement when I got my first electronic router. I had the death grip on the handle to keep it from jumping, and ... nothing. Should have seen the smile on my face.

Get that tail center engaged before spinning the wings and other out-of balance pieces to prevent flop then. And if you're trying to avoid scarring from your hold, consider a hand spin to get going.

Hello Mac,

I used both the 110V and 220V models for two show seasons. Most of my demos were on the 110V for the first season, 220V for the second season. I never changed the electronics as they came from the manufacturer, so I can't say for sure which setting I was using. I would guess it was the soft though...

The lathes were great and worked very well. I would have no problems recommending one to a turner. Since I'm from Texas, I would opt for the 220V model for the extra power, but the 110V worked very good as well. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

Shop Vac, the hose (`1inch) fit the adapter like a glove

Not really, but I would of liked to have that ability with my jet with Reeves drive.. This doesn't spin the belt (which it doesn't have) it stops the lathe..

It might have soft start, for all I know.. I'm a computer consultant and don't understand some of the manual.. You can set power curves, coefficient and a bunch of other things that I'd probably screw up the machine trying to do..

Well, starting at 100 rpm is pretty low drama, but I use the tailstock whenever I can.. Not only safer but easier on the lathe's bearings..

mac

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Probably Normal, Steve.. factory default..

Same model now, the XP.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add

1/4 HP, supposedly.. I don't think I "need" 2 hp, but I try to run as many machines on 220 as I can to ease the load on the 110 circuits..

mac

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ahh... I still have my Sears shop vac and don't think I could put up with hearing that for long periods.. lol

I bought a used Gast vac pump from Bill Noble a few years ago and love it..

mac

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That's a myth.

Or not.... See Teknatool's own comments

In message , Ralph E Lindberg writes

Wire resistance produces a volt drop over a known length of wire. Wires have limited current carrying capability (hence fuses), but not voltage.

This is why overhead power lines carry power at say 400000 volts to allow for volt drop If they carried 220Volt there would be arguably 1 Volt if your lucky by the time it gets to your house, so not much power on a 100A fuse

Automotive systems use 12V but in the past some used 6V, the power rating for a Battery on a 12V system is double that of a 6volt system but no change in physical size. Hence why they are researching higher voltage 72V systems, more power same space (all this onboard electronics)

Now assume 30 volts were lost in the lathe motor due to volt drop starting with 110 will give 80 but starting with 220 will give 190 190 is >2x80

so for 1amp using VxI 80x1 = 80W 190x1=190W

I know this is a very basic, but hopefully this simple explanation will point you in the right direction

Dunno.. but it it's not true, it's more of an advertising ripoff then a myth..

mac

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My old one sure SOUNDS like it..

mac

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