Preparing 2 X 2's for segmented rings?

First... I'd cross cut them to 15" so that when straightening you won't lose so much material.

Then I'd joint them to get one straight edge. You run them on the jointer with the crown up.

Then straighten the opposite edge on the planer.

Now roll them 90 degrees and do it again.

If one needs to do this on the table saw (no jointer) then you double-stick tape a straight board to the crooked square and run that along the fence to get one straight edge. Then use that against the fence to true the opposite edge.

Is that what you are asking? I'm not so sure since that is exactly the way those tools are expected to be used.

Bill

Bart V wrote:

it's one of them small jointer/planer combos, not a thickness planer. I need to keep some of them 2X2's at 27~28" lengths though

yup

when you know what you're doing, hence the question :)

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awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:

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Then you'll have to use your tablesaw as your thicknesser. Join adjacent faces at 90 and rip for thickness. Might want to try one of those thickness sanding rigs they sell for tablesaws if you have a few extra bucks.

Don't envy you ripping beech. gets squirrelly sometimes.

Glad I could be of help. I made what seemed like a logical assumption

-- since you had those machines you knew how they were to be used.

But, since you seem new to these things...

Running 2" stock through any machine can be dangerous. A kickback from a table saw, if I remember right, takes off at about 100mph. So, you want to use a proper hold down, push stick and not work any closer to the blade than necessary.

Bill

Bart V wrote:

Hello Bart

How's the banjo working out ?

So what are you up to now, another banjo or something else ?

You want to straighten relative short stock straight, and You got some good advice already, I just wanted to give you another option, namely a V-Drum sander, I don't know if you are familiar with it, but it makes for a fine and straight finish, and you don't have the bad kickback problem of the table saw.

Have a look at the stockroom supply's site, I have dealt with them in the past, they are nice people, and have good stuff, I have no other connection with them.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Bart V wrote:

fabulous, thanks

Starting to get ready for the next one (just like chisels, you can never only have one...). I need to make up 2 blocks, about 16"X16" and turn them round, one concave & one convex so I can take a stab at glue-pressing veneer to make a resonator for the back of the banjo, something like this:

"bowl" would have only about a 1/2" rise max. from the outside tothe middle.I know, I know, so why not turn it out of a solid piece of wood. Uh,well, umm, too chicken so far... Go ahead and chuckle :)))

saw them at the woodshow, Santa already knows...

Bart.

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awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:

**may your moments of need be met by moments of compassion**

Hi Bart

Thanks for the post, yes there are more ways than one to skin a cat, as they say, and there might be a advantage using veneer glued up, that's not going to be easy though making it convex or upside down, are you going to use vacuum or pressure bag ? and steam ?. The V-drum sander could be a home build, for very little outlay, just your time, and you probably don't have enough of that either, like to see some pic's when done.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Bart V wrote:

The "bowl" would have only about a 1/2" rise max. from the outside to> the middle.> I know, I know, so why not turn it out of a solid piece of wood. Uh,> well, umm, too chicken so far... Go ahead and chuckle :)))>