"mac davis" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
On Mon, 2 May 2005 12:37:29 -0400, "George" wrote:
>
> George... could you please describe "peeling"?
> Being an old fart with several parts of my body mistreated in a less than
> intelligent youth, I try to make both work and play as low impact and
> comfortable as possible... and it sounds like I'm working too hard at this.. >
Short answer, it's what drops the curlies rather than throwing the chunkies.
Longer answer, it's presenting the tool to the work so that the rotation draws the wood along the edge to cut and release. It involves beginning almost perpendicular to the surface to get the cut started, then rotating the tool so it slides and peels. The motion of the tool - downgrain, of course - allows a continuous twisted shaving.
Have you taken a look at my page at
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where I showthe gouge angles I use? They're just quick illustrations, but you can seehow the leading edge of the gouge begins the cut, while the trailing end -the convex shape keeps you from digging in - is almost vertical as itfinally severs the shaving.In roughing a bottom, you cut from center outward, bottom to top like
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, hugging therest, until you've got an uninterrupted surface. It's easier to get one inclose than out near the rim. Then you can guide the bevel and peel like thelast picture on that page. Page five shows some inside hogging, centertoward rim and vice versa - both are downgrain - check the broad gouge in
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to seethe twist and fall. You can see gouge angles for roughing (used as a skew), forged spindle and bowl gouges on
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Notethat the worst mechanical support is the one for the bowl gouge, especiallyif you use either a square-top or round toolrest. I'm resting it on twoplaces in the picture. This is why a lot of people use long tool handles ontheir bowl gouges - they're using themselves to steady the tool instead ofthe rest. If they were using forged pattern gouges on edge, the rest wouldtake the knocks as they take the shavings, and the vertical travel of thehandle would be much less. The Nova has square-topped rests, which favorthe forged gouges with a blunt, rather than fingernail grinds.http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/georgesalbum.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=228gives a look it the rest, and at the way I collect shavings - I let themfall into a bag! The better you support the tool on the rest, the less youhave to take it in the elbow.A-B-C Anchor the tool to the rest. Bevel touched to the surface. Cut to the curl.
Once you've got the curl, continue. Pull or push, as appropriate, with the opposite hand along the rest. Your good hand rotates to compensate for differing curves as you go along. I like to show off sometimes by raising one hand or the other as I'm cutting. You have to actually have a bevel guiding to do this, though, and you can't rotate the gouge for curve as easily.
I've got some other pictures that might help, if you don't mind off-group.