Proper Sanding Techniques

I always sand on the lathe unless there is a problem area.

Pressure should be "just enough" too much and you will overheat the turning, the paper and your fingers. If you have alternating end-grain and side grain as in a bowl then the paper cuts unevenly and by forcing it you can really make circles into ovals. (In time, even without forcing, the same thing happens too)

I consider a minium grit for something I want to use the Beale system on to be 400.

If you are going to get this done and mail it on Monday you are under the gun alright. I like to let my finishes cure as long as possible before buffing so they buff up rather than go somewhat gummy.

Bill

======================== Keith, Monday is a SHORT deadline, so you probably should consider lacquer for finishing. Since it dries almost instantly, you can sand the wood to 400, apply 2-3 coats, wet sand to 600-800; repeat, then buff. That'll use up a good portion of your week end, but should be doable if you leave it to cure in a warm room for 10-12 hours before buffing.

Good luck,

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

Keith.. as applied to most things, the "proper" method is what works best for you..

If I had to have a project sanded and finished for mailing in 2 or 3 days, I wouldn't buff it... your oil should have a few days to cure, or you'll probably have a cloudy finish, or gummy as Bill said..

I'd power/hand sand it on the lathe to about 320 grit and then use friction polish on it... dries instantly and looks nice... especially if you let it cure over night and than run it through the wax wheel on the Beall.. YMMV

mac

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