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If your sandpaper clogs - which means it doesn't cut, but heats instead - you may be sanding wood that has too much moisture in it. On fresh stuff, I generally take a 120/150 grit pass only, reserving anything finer for later. Even that often rips wet,weak fiber, clogging the paper.

Other than letting the piece dry before sanding 240 or below, you can use open-coat papers, with less grit per square than regular. They're not as aggressive, of course, but they will shed resin or wet fiber better, especially if they're stearated - lubricated with soapy substances. You can clean the paper with a crepe "eraser" or with my choice, a brass BBQ cleaning brush. You'll lose a bit of grit either way, but the eraser seems to work best on larger pieces under power, while the brush doesn't care.

Others have already told you about lubricated sanding. It needn't clog your pores fully, however. Use the lightest of non-polar solvents - mineral spirits - after using a more viscous one to clear the pores.

Keith,

I like to use the dark red alumium oxide paper waterproof, starting with nr

100, then 150, 220 and ending with 320or 400. Even on wet wood this works quite well, because its special for wood and you can clean it. I'm cleaning it in 2 different ways: by tapping it unfolded with its back on the bed of my lathe, so the bigger spots of wet dust wil jump of. The other way is by putting them overnight in a bucket of water. the next day the will be clean and you can dry them by hanging them with clothes-pegs. Just a dutch way of doing things.

Dutchturner Chris. "Keith Young" schreef in bericht news:yNmdnV3eE5EEoQHenZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com...

I think he means orientation, Derek.. like faceplate turning??

I'm guessing that he was answering your question about spindle turning..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

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Not in a platter (slab) orientation, it wouldn't be. Essentially random nature hides a multitude of sanding sins.

IMHO I think you should try for the best final cut possible, then using cloth backed grits start around 180, not using too much pressure mind, then move up through the grades when the amount of dust drops and you have removed signs of what the last grit did. fold the grit up so you have at least three layers between you and the wood, and keep it moving all the time, too much pressure will clog the grits and heat the wood. Be patient, if you rush it the piece will feel and look rough no matter how many layers of finish you put on. Hotfoot

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Ye guys are great and I'm learning. I'm starting to notice a real improvement already,

Keith

Thanks, That where I'm having the sucess.And Patience is the answer.

Keith Newfoundland