Tool Brands and Steels - Opinions Sought - See my Spreadsheet

I renamed the spreadsheet file to make for better linkability, and here's the improved link:

I forgot to mention that it's not by any means complete orpolished, and represents only my own interpretation of what could be agood starter set. It does show a bit about which vendors have betterprices.

Peace, Sanaka

Sanaka Are you going to be doing mostly bowls or spindles. If bowls the 3/8" bowl gouge and bowl scraper by Hamlet are good choices to start with learn those and put the rest into a chuck for the lathe and maybe an extra face plate or two.

Sanaka

I wouldn't get all the tools listed at once Think about a chuck and an extra face plate or two. If you want to start on bowls the 3/8" bowl gouge 2060 and the 1/2" thick bowl bowl scraper by Hamlet are good choices, learn to use those and go from there.

A couple of sites that may save you a few dollars. hppt://toolpost.co uk www/jacquescolumbe.com

A site for Nova owners excellent upgrade info. groups.msn.com/novaowners

I generally like the Raffan suggestions, but I would change some.

I would say the square end scraper would be less used than the other tools, so you could consider eliminating it. Raffan generally uses a rounded end for boxes to eliminate difficult to sand sharp corners and flat bottoms that are hard to get perfectly flat.

A 3/4" or 1" skew makes it easier to avoid catches.

Many including including Stubbs, Ellsworth and Jordan use a 1/2" or 5/8" bowl gouge. I personally like my 1/2" Crown PM bowl gouge much better than my first 3/8" gouge. A lot less vibration. I ground a smaller bevel on the heel of the main bevel to decrease the radius that the gouge can work through on the inside of a bowl.

Otherwise, I would recommend you go with any of these main brands. Remember to check handle length. Longer is generally nicer. M2 will serve you fine on most everything, but if you will be turning bowls a lot, consider getting a bowl gouge of better steel, like the Crown PM or the Hamlet or Packard

2030 or 2060. I even use some cheapy Harbor Freight carbon steel scrapers that I ground in unique shapes. They work fine and are used for such a short time that the decreased wear resistance is not significant.

One other thing to consider is proximity. How close are the stores you are considering ordering from? It can save me a few days ordering from Craft Supplies since I am in Washington state and the other main turning stores, Packard and Highland Hardware are in the SE.

You will be happy with any of these name brand tools.

Derek

Good list! Nice to know I'm not the only one that does spreadsheets to help decide (I have one on lathes right now). I would change the 3/8 bowl guage to a 1/2 incher, a 3/4 inch roughing guage works fine and is usually cheaper. All the brands you have listed make fine equipment, powdered metal types are very nice but more $$. For now I would piece together the "standard" high speed steel tools which will last keeping in mind the stuff you listed is good quality etc (Henry Taylor, Crown, etc) then remember you need a grinder or something else to sharpen your tools. I ended up with a slow speed grinder from Woodcraft and a Wolverine jig which made it very easy and quick for me to keep my tools sharp. As time goes on you will modify based on what preferences you develop. Have fun and good luck!!! Guy

Thanks all. Well I'll probably end up with an all or mostly Crown lineup - just because they are cheaper across the board, and no one has jumped in screaming how their steel is no good or anything :-) And probably an all or mostly M2 set for the same reasons. I like the idea of a larger skew - any comments about them being radiused vs. straight? I'll think about a larger bowl gouge. I'm glad to know the spreadsheet was somewhat decipherable :-)

Peace, Sanaka

Forget the radiused skew. It's not buying you anything in reality. A fully round skew, yes, but not just those mild radius'. I would recommend knocking the sharp edges off the rectangular skews though. Not enough to really form a radius of any magnitude. All you're wanting to do is to keep from really pitting your toolrest as much. A little sandpaper on each of the 4 edges is fine.

- Andrew

Sorry Andrew but I have to disagree with your comments about radiused corners. A full radius as on P&N tools helps a lot when you have to "roll and slide" at the same time when turning largish beads for spindle work eg dining table legs or planing a long curve with varying radii.

Graeme

Actually I was referring to a mildly radiused cutting edge, ala Raffan. The radius, or at least dulled edge, on the corners of the shaft seems good, I'm so far heeding warnings that the 'oval' section skews aren't a real advantage.

BTW, what are "P&N" tools? I keep seeing them referred to, but haven't seen them anywhere. Thanks!

Peace, Sanaka

They're also a disadvantage in certain type of skew cuts. Peeling cuts are more difficult because the oval section doesn't allow you to keep a steady angle of attack. Same idea if you use a skew to "face" a glue block flat for instance. The oval skew just wants to rock back and forth on that oval section too much. Also, the oval section can sometimes be a detriment in planing types of cuts with larger spindle diameters. The oval skew feels like it's slipping down too easily causing the skew to take too wide of a cut (ala "catch"). This is somewhat of a minor problem as you can get used to that and adjust on the fly but there's just no need for the extra problem if you don't have to deal with it. Along that same vein, this problem is noticed when rounding beads. Get too far over on the oval skews' side and you start slipping. There's just too much movement there. BTW, this isn't a problem with a fully round skew!

I make my own skews .... from my 2" wide x 1/2" thick "bass skew" (so named because I make display fishing lures about 24" long x 10" diameter with it) down to my micro 1/16" round for miniature work. I've tried making several variations of oval (semi-oval, half-round, flat-spot, etc.) skews and they just aren't giving what they seem to promise. You'd think that having that oval section would make it easier to get good contact with and give a more direct force entry into the toolrest throughout a wider range of skew cutting angles in planing cuts (which, along with "V" and beads is what it's used for most) but it doesn't. It's just "tippy" and slides too easily.

If anybody out there already has an oval skew then, by all means, don't not try using it. You'll get used to it eventually but just realize it's limitations like any tool. If I were to start out with a skew knowing what I know now or if I'm offering advice to anyone then I recommend not getting an oval skew. Others, I'm sure, have their own advice and it's equally as valid for them.

- Andrew