Hi, I just borrowed a book from the library about this technique. I have never changed color within rows, only stripes (how's that for avoidance?) Anyway, I played with it this weekend with some success. Any pointers? Good websites or books to consult for more info? The book had lots of great theoretical and design info, but little "for dummies" info.
TIA, Susan K
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I'm not sure what "slip-stitch" refers to specifically, but I didn't know Fair Isle and "picture" knitting, which both involve 2 or more colors within a row, were supposed to be scary, so I just jumped in. (Pictures at
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--third row is picture knitting,not embroidery. Children's garments are also multi-color knitting.)Main advice I would share is:1) if you have to 'carry' the other color more than 3 stitches, twist itwith the working yarn to keep it from being an invitation to gettingsnagged.
2) keep the yarn that's being carried loose so it doesn't pucker the garment
3) be prepared for a somewhat heavier fabric If your pattern goes all the way around the garment, you can knit in the round (my preference); if it doesn't, you have to go back and forth.
on this old thread includes a very easy slip stitch pattern thatworks well in two colors that Monica shared.Other stitch patterns shared by Noreen as well - I have used these for6X6 squares for the exchange for some time.
Susan, I thried that technique for the square exchange and I loved it. It certainly is a different way of knitting though. I will ask a friend about the title of the book I used. I can't recall it so quickly. I also used I think a pattern from Voque magazine, and I think it was for Katherine that I made that square, if I remember correctly
SUSAN that brings back Waves of memories ,, it used to be my mother`s favorite way to knit , and to hide her recycled usage of various older wools ,,, I thnk maybe this is the reason i really didn`t explore that line of Wonderful oportunities....only lately when i do some FF knit or crochet i renewed my interest in this way of knitting ... pointers Explore various methods.... including the moving a stich [ unkinitted] from needle to needle in a one color knit ,, try more than 2 colors alternatively , try kniting one color and purling the other [on the same side ... try making shapes ,,, like Monograms etc,,, mirjam
Mirjam it is a very popular way of knitting again, I have seen it in several different places last year. I got my pattern out of Vogue magazine I think. The book that has very good explanations on knitting this technique is by Roxanne Bartlett, it is called Slip-stich knitting.
Elsje !! i think Old Ariadnes have many of this patterns , when i will have my mid morning coffee break i will look through some ,,, I have to warn all those who do enjoy this way of knitting TO MAKE A GUAGUE as it tends to pull the knitting in ,,,, mirjam
I'll look it up--it's from an old THreads magazine. Basically, it's a raglan with dolman type sleeves, it's just that the paired increases, instead of being around the shoulders are rotated 90 degrees to be at center front and back and tops of the shoulders.Give me a day or so to locate the pattern--er, plan.
Amazingly, when I went to my knitting records, the instructions for the chevron raglan were on top! So this is what I transcribed from the article in Threads (must have been in the 1990s sometime--I have given that issue away apparently). ANyway, the original article was about making a striped chevron sweater to use up left over yarn, and the illustrations were very colorful. My interpretation in navy blue mohair with accents of white and orange is somewhat "minimalist".
BTW, I still have about a dozen issues of Threads from 1989-1994 if anyone wants them. Georgia
Here are the instructions: Top-down Chevron Raglan
Yarn: something that can be knitted at approx. 4sts/inch
Needles: 16" and longer Circular needles that yield approximately 4 sts/inch, plus a set two sizes smaller
Yoke
Cast on 88 sts on smaller 16" needle. Place markers every 22 sts. K1 P1 for about 1 inch.
Change to larger needle. Begin increase pattern:
knit all rows.
Every Other Round, incr 1 st each side of marked stitch
(Increase by yarnover; knit in front to make eyelet, in back to keep tight)
After 4", determine gauge. Then either
1.. Multiply gauge by (chest measurement + 6). Double this number. When there are this many sts on needle, divide for sleeves. 2.. For size M (c. US misses size 10-12), knit till garment measures 13" from ribbing to needle (between 2 markers). Divide for sleeves. Dividing
Stop the last round halfway from the last marker.
Knit the rest of the way on a 16" circular needle.
On the 16" needle, knit past the marked st, without increasing, to halfway to the next marker.
Leave all other sts non the big needle (or yarn-holding string).
The marked stitch will be the center (top) of the sleeve.
Knitting Sleeve triangles
Short sleeves
Knit sleeve sts around center st.
Wrap center st, and turn for short-row.
Place marker on right hand needle; purl all the way around to center st.
Wrap it again, turn, place another marker on right-hand needle (This double wrap is only for the first row of the double triangle.
Knit progressively shorter rows in stockinette (k 1 row, p next row), turning 2 sts closer in each time.
At the same time as you are short-rowing, make the underarm decreases:
Dec 1 st each side of marker on all K rows (SSK before marker, k2tog after).
When sleeve is 1" shorter than desired, (k1, k2tog)* all around. Then k1p1 rib on smaller needles.
Transfer sts for other sleeve to larger needle, and knit to match.
Long sleeves
Continue to knit around sleeve, increasing at marked center stitch EOR, and decreasing every row at underarm seam, until long point is desired length. (When number of sts. on needle reaches 50, reduce underarm decreases to every other row (knit rows).
Knit sleeve triangles as for short sleeves, continuing underarm decreases.
Body
Join front and back, and knit as for long sleeves, with underarm decreases every other row as long as center increases are continued. Finish as desired (e.g., k1p1 ribbing or other border stitch).
Marvellous. Thank you very much. Of course I will make my own interpretation too. I will have to do some math anyway , to convert to metric, and to adapt the pattern to the gauge of the yarn I will use. Thanks again
Hi Els, The book I'm using is "Slip-Stitch Knitting: Color Pattern the Easy Way" by Roxana Bartlett. She has lots of stitch and garment patterns, but in order for me to really understand it, I like a more detailed explanation and/or diagrams of when to use the "dark" and "light" colors. But, my first attempt is my January 6x6 to Aud (yes, it's coming! I just want to write a nice letter to go with it). It was fun to do the slip-stitch knitting, although in the end I'm not sure if it was all that technique. It was fun to experiment with color and design. Simple, but pretty end-product.
Lots of good info from the group, as usual - I will explore most of the suggestions. Thank you all!
The first time I tried changing color within a row was several years ago, and I ended up with a pulled-in mess. I gave up - had more to do than time knitting other things. This time, it was okay. In fact, my problem was more pulling up rather than in, but it was fine once I gently blocked it. When I get a digital camera I will post photos of the next multi-colored project.
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