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The Kundansaz (A Perspective)
Kundansaz ... I believe this is the Indian word for Gemsetter.
I begin with the image and the starkness of contrast. I don't know his name. But I have an image of him ... sitting cross-legged on a pillow ... bare-chested and bare-footed ... knee-high pants ... bent over his work in front of a low-slung table. Strewn about him on the floor are samples of jewelry ... books ... tools. A lamp fitted with home-made shading illuminates his word.
Next to this image is another. Instead of being the bench of a Kundansaz in India ... this is the bench of a modern day diamond setter in New York. I blush with immodesty. It is my bench. The difference is stark. This bench has many of the modern conveniences today's world of craftsmanship affords. Microscope. GRS tools. Yada yada yada.
In my humble opinion ... India produced some of the finest and most intricate jewelry we are privileged to see. And they did it with tools that don't hold a candle to what is available to us now. Take a look. I think you will enjoy the perspective.
A little more about the Kundansaz. His tools were portable. There was a time when it was not easy for women to roam the streets to go searching for jewelry. So ... the craftsmen would come to their homes ... set up on the floor ... and begin creating the desired brooch or pendant or earring for the lady of the house. This presented quite a few advantages. An eagle eye was always present to ensure no gold went missing ... no gemstones were switched for those of inferior quality. Gratification was metaphorically instantaneous. Progress could be measured by the micro-second.
Perhaps we could all learn something here. Let us buy Ice Cream truck type vehicles with full service jewelry facilities inside. Polishing. Setting. Torches. Cheap rent ... except of course for gas expenses. We roam hill and dale ... our bells ringing ... loudspeakers blasting melodious tunes to let one and all know that the Traveling Jeweler is on your street. They will flock to the trucks like kiddies to cones. My chain is broken. I need a bracelet for tonight. You have any brooches? Can you tighten my center stone?
Ah ... fantasy beats reality seven ways to Christmas and back. The customers will dance in the streets reveling at this new convenience. Till of course one day the tax man will get wind of the new enterprise. As will the town elders. Roaming licenses will have to be issued. Roaming taxes will have to be levied. Local gas stations will have to have special pumps installed with special rates for the traveling jewelry trucks. Huge bonuses will be given to those who cripple the itinerant crafstmen ... to those who thought up all this extra levying. There will be rebellion in the streets. The itinerant entrepreneur will not be able to survive. He will travel into the city. Look for a place for rent. Give up his truck ... his ideas ... his dreams. And all will be as it once was. Ah ... reality clearly beats fantasy seven ways to Christmas and back. Doesn't it?
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And there ya have it. That's it for this week folks. Catch you all next week. Benjamin Mark
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