Totally technical question, arising because I have spent today doing applique for a baby item and decided to take the opportunity to learn to do tapering of satin stitched to make my corners look better.
I must be insane!
I'm tapering by hand, as the points are mostly not 90 degrees.
Got reasonable outside points (using right-hand stitch that keeps the right side of the stitches on the same straight line).
Got reasonable inside points (doing the same with left-hand stitch). I was putting this off, but then realised that the 5" tall teddy bear had all inside points...
However, said teddy bear now needs a t-shirt with both inside and outside points. Is there a good way of doing this?
Harriet Hargrave does not address doing both in the same seam...
Wow! I'm very impressed. When I had to do loads of appliqué, with satin stitch, most of corners were right angles and I practised until I could make them look even whether they were inside or outside. When I came to acute angles I kept the stitches the same length and 'simply' moved the work, with the needle down, and sewed over existing stitches until the corner looked sufficiently OK for move on along the next 'side'. I had actually not even thought of tapering. Mind you, by that stage of the project, I was almost beyond thinking >gTotally technical question, arising because I have spent today doing
If you really want to take tapering satin stitching seriously, a good book on the newest techniques is by Debra Wagner. That is, of course, that you want to play with the big dogs. I don't. I'm not even going to go watch. Too hard. I notice that she says it's helpful to consult your own sm manual for guidance since they all have their own little peculiarities. I could change my mind (mid-sentence) but I'd rather use a blanket stitch. Polly
I'll look up Debra Wagner (probably nothing available here...)
I did check the manual - in fact read it together with the chapter of Harriet Hargrave's book on machine applique. But none answers this question (although for a 45degree taper, I now know that my SM can do this automatically...)
The blanket stitch with a narrow width setting can be done very discreetly = with invisible thread or a fine cotton thread that matches the applique. = =20
I like using invisible thread with a short narrow zig-zag stitch (zig onto = the applique and zag off on the background fabric)- it uses less thread and= therefore less bulky than the blanket stitch. If you use a fine machine = needle it hardly shows even on close inspection (a larger needle can leave = holes that are larger than the invisible thread).
Good luck! ;-)
Leslie & The Furbabies > You prefer the look, or prefer it because you find it easier?
Is either of this enough when using a must-sew fusible for the applique on a piece that will be washed frequently? Because turned applique is definitely not in my near future :-)
Hanne in DK
Den 17-10-2012 15:54, Leslie & The Furbabies in MO. skrev:
with invisible thread or a fine cotton thread that matches the applique.
applique and zag off on the background fabric)- it uses less thread and therefore less bulky than the blanket stitch. If you use a fine machine needle it hardly shows even on close inspection (a larger needle can leave holes that are larger than the invisible thread).
Had you not said "washed frequently" or no turned edges I would have said '= yes'. But with raw edges (other than what the fusible might secure) and f= requent washing- no. Sorry. :-( =20
Turning applique edges isn't so bad at all- using the various methods. So= me methods are better than others for certain shapes and sizes of the appli= que pieces. You can, also, 'adjust' the shapes as you make your pattern. = Long narrow points can be shortened and widened a bit and extreme angles c= an be adjusted or even rounded out. =20
I use freezer paper on the wrong side and basting the turned-under edges fo= r most shapes but sewing a lightweight stabilizer- or even used dryer sheet= s or lightweight fabric- slit the back and turn right side out works better= for some shapes. Actually, turning the edges is much quicker in the long = run than satin stitching. And satin stitching can get soooooo tedious on a = larger project.... and rather challenging on some angles as you are finding= out.
Hope it goes well and quickly for you.
Leslie & The Furbabies > Is either of this enough when using a must-sew fusible for the applique= =20
tly with invisible thread or a fine cotton thread that matches the applique= .
nto the applique and zag off on the background fabric)- it uses less thread= and therefore less bulky than the blanket stitch. If you use a fine mach= ine needle it hardly shows even on close inspection (a larger needle can le= ave holes that are larger than the invisible thread).
I think you did a very nice job, Hanne! I'm no expert, but I don't really do tapered points unless I'm doing something that comes to a long, thin point. For what you were doing, I'd probably just do the squared-off (butted) corners. I've found that stopping with needle down and pivoting is only part of the "trick". The rest is which position the needle should be in for the pivot. If I'm doing an inside corner, I leave the needle to the inside of the appliqué piece; if it's an outside corner, I leave it on the outside of the appliqué piece (IOW, in the background fabric). I don't know if that helps or not, since you did really nice work without that "tip".
Thanks! I do try to do as you do in the butted corners. For corners that are close to 90 degrees, this is fine, but I think it is harder to make it look good when much less than 90 degrees.
Anyways, this was a small project (6 small blocks total, most not layered), and I wanted to take the opportunity to learn :-)
I'll go ask at "my LQS" (from an ocean away???) next time I'm in the US.
THE book is Traditional Quilts Today's Techniques by Debra Wagner pub 1997. Keep stalking the only used bookstores until you can find a used copy. Mine from
Well said, Leslie. Satin stitching is beautiful but truly tedious for a crib quilt. I like to lay right sides together, stitch around, clip, slash and turn (Don't try this with things like the letter 'E' while drinking fine wine or you could wind up with it backwards.) With the blanket stitch, you can get any look you want. Invisible thread and a teeny bite is truly nearly invisible and there are some lovely invisible threads. ( The trick there is to wind the bobbins very slowly.) Or, you can get bold about it and stack 2 spools of black thread on top and make quite a statement. Or, anywhere in between. As always, it depends. The 'Peepers' quilt I made (we'll find where Jenx showed it if you like) is one of the very few whose history I know. It's been washed and dried nearly 100 times, and treated with all manner of unspeakables such as a couple of beach trips and 4 new teeth. Doing fine. Polly
Turning applique edges isn't so bad at all- using the various methods. Some methods are better than others for certain shapes and sizes of the applique pieces. You can, also, 'adjust' the shapes as you make your pattern. Long narrow points can be shortened and widened a bit and extreme angles can be adjusted or even rounded out.
I use freezer paper on the wrong side and basting the turned-under edges for most shapes but sewing a lightweight stabilizer- or even used dryer sheets or lightweight fabric- slit the back and turn right side out works better for some shapes. Actually, turning the edges is much quicker in the long run than satin stitching. And satin stitching can get soooooo tedious on a larger project.... and rather challenging on some angles as you are finding out.
Hope it goes well and quickly for you.
Leslie & The Furbabies > Is either of this enough when using a must-sew fusible for the applique >
But does she address the issue of mitering satin stitch in both direction on the same piece? Because if not, I think Harriet Hargrave covers pretty much everything in her Machine Appliqué book.
I'm thinking all you really need is practice and testing until you and your sm have it singing. Put together a few bears and discover what happens with one setting and another. Good needle, thread tensions, stabilizer and even which needle position. My Bernina friends love Hargrave so I'm sure her instructions will be very good. Polly
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